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2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
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Is anyone using the automatic gearbox? I saw that at night there is no backlit for the letters P, D, R, etc makes it difficult to shift. Also the little cover opening that you pry open in an emergency to force the gear into position is misisng, does anyone know whether is mazda specific and if I could buy the little cover only?
The light is a common failure on Mazdas. My parents 6 had it go out. All you do is carefully pry up the bezel and replace the tiny bulb. The cover may be a bit more involved to replace as thy may only come with the bezel. Recommend checking dismantlers for this part. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The motor mounts are 2-piece on each side. The lower perches that bolt to the frame are Mazda, the actual motor mounts that bolt to block and then the perches are FCA.
Am I correct only (2,4) & (4,7) are required to replace a fully down engine mount? Cuz it seems only the lower part is the actual mount (I can get from Mazda), the upper is the bracket would it be possible to reuse the existing?

also it is mentioned no.1 is also an engine mount bracket.
 

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I never noticed if the letters are backlit at night. I shift by feel; don't think I've ever looked down at the selector while using it. I just move it deliberately through the detents. One detent P to R, three detents P to D, two detents D to R, three detents D to P, one detent R to P.
Magoffin,I have a MT so this doesn't apply to me.... but just wondering if this would be controlled by the same backlighting control for the instrument display? If that knob/stick is rotated to much, it completely blacks out the backlighting for the tack/speedo area.

cainroad, I'm talking about the little black stock that you use to reset your trip readings in the odometer. It also functions to increase or decrease the baclighting in your instrument display by rotating the stalk CW or CCW. When you're in a dark location, try that and see if when you brighten your dash if it also brightens your shift postion level in the console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I’ve only got low or high brightness via the ‘stick’ can’t turn off completely at night. My headlights are set to auto.

I looked up the part indeed there’s light underneath but Fiat wont replace just the bulb, has to be the whole top panel.

thankfully the little cap above the letter P, I can buy individually
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Am I correct only (2,4) & (4,7) are required to replace a fully down engine mount? Cuz it seems only the lower part is the actual mount (I can get from Mazda), the upper is the bracket would it be possible to reuse the existing?

also it is mentioned no.1 is also an engine mount bracket.
Here is a clear-ish view of my right side mount assembly. The bottom part with the rubber bushing is a Mazda part on both sides. The upper bracket (actual motor mount to me) that connects to the block and sits on the perch is a Mopar part.

86465
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Haha... then why would i need to replace the bracket, just the engine mount (bushing piece) will do...

I noticed most Mazda parts have NA as pre-fix, probably means North America

Another thing I notice is the steering wheel, most cars I driven in the past would spring back to the straight position after you make a turn.

On this car, it is a bit stiffer, it isn't very smooth, I supposed this is normal?
 

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Another thing I notice is the steering wheel, most cars I driven in the past would spring back to the straight position after you make a turn.

On this car, it is a bit stiffer, it isn't very smooth, I supposed this is normal?
It's a Mazda thing with low initial caster. Ask for -1.5 Camber all around, max out front Caster, 0 to ever so slightly Outward Toe on the front (Negative camber steers the wheel IN), and straight Thrust Angle on the rears. That should make it a bit more like a rollerskate!
 

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Oh my that sounds like a lot work, is this practically the same as straightening out the wheels during an aligment? If I had to explain like this to mechanic he would be thinking I’m mad
A "normal" alignment is usually 0 camber, 5-6ish Caster, 0 Toe and straight thrust angle. It's not much work to change the settings if you are having an alignment after repair work. It will make the car respond better in the turns and snap back to center.
 
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But would that create another problem which is uneven tire wear lol?
Not really, the increase in handling and corner traction will FAR outweigh the minimal wear. I'm lowered to 12.5" ride height, Progress F/R Sway Bars on middle/end settings, running -3 camber all around, about +7.5 caster, +1/16" Toe and it feels great. No rubbing on 235/45R17 at 25.4" diameter. It does also create a little "oversteer" vs the OEM setup, lane changes and curves happen quickly!
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Finally got my fan air blower replaced, the old one had rust at the motor shaft causing a noisy bearing.

Changing it can't be easier with just 3 screws and unplug the connector. Anyone can do it.

Part number was NA1P61B10. Purchased from Mazda here in UAE

Next I'll be changing the engine mount, have ordered the Mazda parts, will see how it goes.

Note: The car is only 4 years old and already had the fan blower replaced due to rust and noise, but on my 2012 Audi and 2015 BMW, never did we replace the blower once due to the same reason. Very strange.
 

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Finally got my fan air blower replaced, the old one had rust at the motor shaft causing a noisy bearing.
Changing it can't be easier with just 3 screws and unplug the connector. Anyone can do it.
Part number was NA1P61B10. Purchased from Mazda here in UAE
Next I'll be changing the engine mount, have ordered the Mazda parts, will see how it goes.
Note: The car is only 4 years old and already had the fan blower replaced due to rust and noise, but on my 2012 Audi and 2015 BMW, never did we replace the blower once due to the same reason. Very strange.
A car's abilty to last is in a large degree attributable to the effort the owner puts into maintaining it. The previous owner of your Spider may not have appreciated it as much as you do. Thankfully, it found you as a new owner. Someone who will bring it back to what it should be.
 

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Finally got my fan air blower replaced, the old one had rust at the motor shaft causing a noisy bearing.

Changing it can't be easier with just 3 screws and unplug the connector. Anyone can do it.

Part number was NA1P61B10. Purchased from Mazda here in UAE

Next I'll be changing the engine mount, have ordered the Mazda parts, will see how it goes.

Note: The car is only 4 years old and already had the fan blower replaced due to rust and noise, but on my 2012 Audi and 2015 BMW, never did we replace the blower once due to the same reason. Very strange.
Is there invisible salty spray in the air where you live? Does exposed steel generally rust quickly?
 

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It's a Mazda thing with low initial caster.
Funny you mention that. My bad-weather daily driver is a 2009 Mazda3 hatchback. I just had new tires fitted and when it came back from the shop it was pulling left ever so slightly and had no return-to-center impulse. Took them two additional tries to correct it. I need to go look at the shop printout for the alignment and see what they ended up with. Drives like a dream now.



Edit: Alignment report of my Mazda3 above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Is there invisible salty spray in the air where you live? Does exposed steel generally rust quickly?
we have loads of sand storm, and occasionally cloud seeding here in UAE where they put large amount of salt in the upper atmosphere to create rainy clouds. But same goes in northern hemisphere where they put loads of salt on snow during winter season

another point is the air filter, it is purely a mesh not even a filter. I found loose leaves whilst I was cleaning it. If such large particles could get in, i’m afraid water could find its way also and landing directly on top of the fan blower. I’ve ordered a 3M sheet type air filter to put on top of the mesh, that way essentially I can block out all the dust, pm2.5 and water, until I could find a compatible air filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Can anyone advise the Mazda part number for the engine mount rubber that supposedly fit 124? Huge issue coming in the garage ones I bought don’t fit!

ones I bought were
Left NA5F-39-050
Right NA5F-39-040

mechanic saying the top screw is not long enough. We checked the original one in the car it had the same part number however screw length is different. Very strange !! Any idea ?
 

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