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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
"Must" Hardwares
Freodo DS2500 Brake Pads F/R
Progress Technologies FRONT and REAR AntiSway Bar Combo
Eurocomposion Catch Can
Forge External Blowoff Valve
Titaniumn Turbo Blanket


Fluids:
Motul 5W-40 300V 4QT
Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid
Amsoil 75W-90 GL-4 MTF
Amsoil Severe Gear® 75W-90


What other do I have on my car??


APR GTC-200 Wing with risers
Carbonfiber Hardtop
Goodwin Racing Exhaust System Combo


Optional but highly recommended and on my list:

A better tire and wheel combo
Eurocomplusion Intercooler
Aftermarket Roll Bar
Lowering Springs (Personal Favorited is the GWR Roadster)

------------------------------

What are your recommendations?
 

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Fortunately, my wife also loves track days. It gives me a chance to take both cars on-track. :D

What are your recommendations?
I'd move the Roll-bar up to "Must Haves"

I'd recommend performing a wheel/tire combo to begin with, as increasing the amount of contact (by even tiny amounts) is a HUGE change on track. ;)

Also, if you change out the coils for a competition setup (Ohlins R/T, Cusco Zero 3R, etc.) There is less of a need for the Sway-bar swap. Less headache. I did the Zero 3R before putting in the Cusco swaybars. Truly I didn't need the swaybars, but didn't know until I tried.

Personal taste - I'd bypass the wing as this car isn't breaking any records unless you swap the turbo - intercooler - and beef up the internals (then you get a "maybe if you're lucky"). I'd do a small gurney-flap type system like a duckbill or something. Simple stability. Just my taste though. To each, their own.

Also, pass on the hardtop unless you are going for records or need protection from the elements. Helmets are good enough and you have FAR less visual obstructions as you would with the hardtop. Note: I'm getting the hardtop for my cars because I want to drive in the rain. I know... I'm weird like that.:p
 

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Quite frankly, the only need is the roll bar.

Everything is just personal. Not that other things wouldn't help, but you should take the time and figure out what you actually need if you are serious about tracking. What is actually slowing you down. Where are the limitations? Are you overheating? Are brakes fading? Can't turn in? Build it slowly and spend money wisely where you see a problem. (hint: it is usually the driver)

I've done hundreds of track days over years in many cars, and even now I still find the above to be true, on any car I own. I always have to relearn the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fortunately, my wife also loves track days. It gives me a chance to take both cars on-track. :D



I'd move the Roll-bar up to "Must Haves"

I'd recommend performing a wheel/tire combo to begin with, as increasing the amount of contact (by even tiny amounts) is a HUGE change on track. ;)

Also, if you change out the coils for a competition setup (Ohlins R/T, Cusco Zero 3R, etc.) There is less of a need for the Sway-bar swap. Less headache. I did the Zero 3R before putting in the Cusco swaybars. Truly I didn't need the swaybars, but didn't know until I tried.

Personal taste - I'd bypass the wing as this car isn't breaking any records unless you swap the turbo - intercooler - and beef up the internals (then you get a "maybe if you're lucky"). I'd do a small gurney-flap type system like a duckbill or something. Simple stability. Just my taste though. To each, their own.

Also, pass on the hardtop unless you are going for records or need protection from the elements. Helmets are good enough and you have FAR less visual obstructions as you would with the hardtop. Note: I'm getting the hardtop for my cars because I want to drive in the rain. I know... I'm weird like that.:p
Thx, Pretty good write up

So the reason I got the wing is because the gurney flaps only / duck tails dont work well with our cars. You'll need a fastback design. e.g. corvette. to actually have any use of it. Or else it just going to be dirty air everywhere softtop is part of the reason as well. My Wing is at roof level so it would actually work Hardtop because I filed a claim and there a very tiny cut on in the inside of my softtop, so I used the insurance money to "replace/repair" the top, where i kept the old top and purchase a new CF hardtop.

Wheels and tire combo I am looking at getting a tiny fender roll, putting 6UL 17x9 with the newly designed Extremcontact Sport 245/40/17 or 235/40/17.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quite frankly, the only need is the roll bar.

Everything is just personal. Not that other things wouldn't help, but you should take the time and figure out what you actually need if you are serious about tracking. What is actually slowing you down. Where are the limitations? Are you overheating? Are brakes fading? Can't turn in? Build it slowly and spend money wisely where you see a problem. (hint: it is usually the driver)

I've done hundreds of track days over years in many cars, and even now I still find the above to be true, on any car I own. I always have to relearn the car.
Well I think most of the stuff I did is basic protection..

For example the fluids and catch can, and brake pads. Stock pads will FADE easily, stock DOT3 Fluid will be boiling like right away.

Engine oil no need to say anything everyone understands
 

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If it's just "fun" track time, I wouldn't worry about going too wide or race-compound with the tires. With the (crappy, IMO) street tires, they let go gradually. With a race compound and wider, they'll hold longer, but when they do let go, they let go more abruptly, when can put a quick end to your fun.

Brake fade is easily remedied with Good-Win's 2pc slotted rotors, better pads (or GWRs alloy calipers) and the DMR brake vent kit.

A good roll bar that's class-legal (and most importantly, actually SAFE) is a big must-have for anything faster than autocross.

Why the Progress bars, specifically? They're pretty huge (28 and 17, if I remember right). If you're considering lowering/stiffening the car, huge bars are overkill and an unnecessary weight addition. The Cusco bars produce well-balanced handling (I have them on ours, which sees A LOT of SCCA autocross action) without quite as much weight. Only real disadvantage is that their instructions suck (unless you read Japanese).

I wish I'd had a chance this year to pull the trigger on that GWR exhaust I've had by eye on, but I've been trying to keep it to one mod between races so we can test and learn each change. I think it's a worthwhile upgrade, though, and we'll likely be tackling it next spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it's just "fun" track time, I wouldn't worry about going too wide or race-compound with the tires. With the (crappy, IMO) street tires, they let go gradually. With a race compound and wider, they'll hold longer, but when they do let go, they let go more abruptly, when can put a quick end to your fun.

Brake fade is easily remedied with Good-Win's 2pc slotted rotors, better pads (or GWRs alloy calipers) and the DMR brake vent kit.

A good roll bar that's class-legal (and most importantly, actually SAFE) is a big must-have for anything faster than autocross.

Why the Progress bars, specifically? They're pretty huge (28 and 17, if I remember right). If you're considering lowering/stiffening the car, huge bars are overkill and an unnecessary weight addition. The Cusco bars produce well-balanced handling (I have them on ours, which sees A LOT of SCCA autocross action) without quite as much weight. Only real disadvantage is that their instructions suck (unless you read Japanese).

I wish I'd had a chance this year to pull the trigger on that GWR exhaust I've had by eye on, but I've been trying to keep it to one mod between races so we can test and learn each change. I think it's a worthwhile upgrade, though, and we'll likely be tackling it next spring.
YOU HAVE TO GET IT..

I just put it on today, MAKES SO MUCH DIFFERENCE IN SOUND

Sorry for Caps

But its so great I HAVE TO USE CAPS

THE SOUND.oh yes !

I ceramic coated the tips
 

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A Track car needs:

  • Good coilover suspension
  • Tarox Brake Disks + Ferodo DS2500 + steal brake lines + Brake fluid + Brake cooling kit
  • Light and strong wheels with tires -> OZ Alleggerita 7x17 (6,6kg)
  • better cooling for the engine
  • safety roll bar....
 

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YOU HAVE TO GET IT..

I just put it on today, MAKES SO MUCH DIFFERENCE IN SOUND

Sorry for Caps

But its so great I HAVE TO USE CAPS

THE SOUND.oh yes !

I ceramic coated the tips
Seriously, the sound with the GWR Full Exhaust is just.... MAN, I'm glad I got that done first after so many people asking me to rev it at red lights haha.

To be honest, I definitely feel the low-end torque boost too. Lots of places where in the past I was cruising 3rd gear around a turn I'd instead be in 4th, same with some 4s being 5s.

Then again, might just be a symptom of me trying not to make *too* much noise but... Really, at least a hill or two I usually had to downshift to 3rd to get some power when cruising at the speed limit, putting it like 2.7k in 3rd, but now I can do the same hill in 4th around 1.9-2.1k in the powerband with literally no issues.

Or maybe I'm nuts; It's only been a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Seriously, the sound with the GWR Full Exhaust is just.... MAN, I'm glad I got that done first after so many people asking me to rev it at red lights haha.

To be honest, I definitely feel the low-end torque boost too. Lots of places where in the past I was cruising 3rd gear around a turn I'd instead be in 4th, same with some 4s being 5s.

Then again, might just be a symptom of me trying not to make *too* much noise but... Really, at least a hill or two I usually had to downshift to 3rd to get some power when cruising at the speed limit, putting it like 2.7k in 3rd, but now I can do the same hill in 4th around 1.9-2.1k in the powerband with literally no issues.

Or maybe I'm nuts; It's only been a week.
Well its not just that.. the power delivery is much smoother now. It pulls more at lower RPM, so in that case we don't get as much "Kicking feel" when it gets to the TOP figure.
 

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Yesterday I learned I need an oil catch can, turbo blanket and now unfortunately new ignition coils.

100 degree heat killed my cylinder 3 ignition coil sitting right next to the turbo. And I have oil spray all around the oil separator and on the hood in the left corner.

I look at it as I now know what would break. And it did.

76557


My current setup.

Hard dog rollbar
Paco Motorsports seat lowering rails on Recaro
16x8 +35 w 225/45r16 Toyo R1R
Swift springs (268lbs front/134lbs rear) on stock Bilstein shocks
Eibach swaybars
Brembo calipers w/Ferodo DS2500 pads
Miataspeed two piece slotted rotors
SS brake lines
Tork ecu tune
GWR exhaust
DV+ valve

76558

That isn't much. It is a basic setup. Next is more reliability and cooling.

After that I might start thinking about a set of Ohlins as I get faster.
 

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Yesterday I learned I need an oil catch can, turbo blanket and now unfortunately new ignition coils.

100 degree heat killed my cylinder 3 ignition coil sitting right next to the turbo. And I have oil spray all around the oil separator and on the hood in the left corner.

I look at it as I now know what would break. And it did.

View attachment 76557

My current setup.

Hard dog rollbar
Paco Motorsports seat lowering rails on Recaro
16x8 +35 w 225/45r16 Toyo R1R
Swift springs (268lbs front/134lbs rear) on stock Bilstein shocks
Eibach swaybars
Brembo calipers w/Ferodo DS2500 pads
Miataspeed two piece slotted rotors
SS brake lines
Tork ecu tune
GWR exhaust
DV+ valve

View attachment 76558
That isn't much. It is a basic setup. Next is more reliability and cooling.

After that I might start thinking about a set of Ohlins as I get faster.
How did you like the rotors and those pads? I have run those pads before, on my 2016 Miata Sport, and they were incredibly loud and squealy. They were in Wilwood Powerlite calipers, though. I am really thinking about getting those rotors and I would appreciate your feedback on them.
 

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I'm happy with this setup. No brake fade and consistent pedal feel. Also no noise either. I wonder how much the rotors have to do with that.

I did test the rotors with the stock Brembo pads and it they made a difference with fade there too. The weight loss is a bonus.
 

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I'm happy with this setup. No brake fade and consistent pedal feel. Also no noise either. I wonder how much the rotors have to do with that.

I did test the rotors with the stock Brembo pads and it they made a difference with fade there too. The weight loss is a bonus.
How much weight savings for 4 rotors?
 

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2lbs 3 ounces per front rotor. Rear is 1/3 lb per rotor. Not a lot but I’ll take it. I wouldn’t focus on just weight loss though. That is a bonus. Was more worried about cooling and brake fade on something could fit under a 16” wheel.
 

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Just to add some context, and perhaps get some insight from those that know more than me, here is what my engine looked like after my track day. This was spotless before I started the day. Probably hard to see, but there is oil everywhere on the passenger side that looks to be coming from the AOS from what I can tell. That area is fully covered in oil. Need to clean that up today and inspect everything closer.

I already ordered the EC oil catch can hoping that helps with this specific problem. I'm thinking this is just oil blow by from running full boost in harsh conditions.
76607


If someone has other thoughts or recommendations on what happened here please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just looking at this thread I feel old and innocent
My car is so different now.
 
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