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I like it, except the AFR goes in the wrong direction. It has a FIAT logo for the center of the tach but I wish they did an Abarth one as well so I just run it with no logo. Eurocompulsion assures me the tune is safe though. My guage shows 18.8-19 AFR under full boost when I'm used to seeing it around 11 on my STS Turbo Silverado with a PCMforless tune. I also had a crosspipe fitment issue I forgot to mention. It was leaking and had strong smell of exhaust. @Greg thinks it was an isolated manufacturing error, but I still had to drive back to Rosso in Forest Hill and pay more money and spend more time to fix which was frustrating to say the least. Hopefully EC updated their install instructions to include changing of the gasket. Also had PO299 code and solid CEL this morning but hopefully it was just a hiccup.
Aha! Another EC tuned car with 19 AFR under full boost @sharkcohen @HaZ
 
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Sorry I don’t know what to tell you. I have 3 different OBD2 devices and they all read A/F properly on this car. It’s likely your adapter or your software. Did you try Torque yet?
I downloaded the other app, remember? Showed you the dashboard I will test.

I don’t think Torque comes for iPhone.

I haven’t tested the new app yet for A/F. Will do tomorrow.
 
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22 23 maybe 24 when hot. Running well. Holding boost. Anxious to get the system one and crosspipe installed tho to take advantage of the stuffed turbo and pH 3
Oh you haven’t done that?
Glad to hear it is running well. Toby from EC always talked about 26 peak psi being the common figure when WOT with P3 but is almost never that high lol!

Let us know your A/F when you can :)
 
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I had the AR non resonated muffler delete only. Ordered the RM but got tired of waiting. Goodwin got the sys one and crosspipe shipped in about a day but FedEx has it stuck in the phoenix area for the last 36 hours with incredibly poor customer support. They don't seem to have a clue why it's stuck. I may have seen 25 26 a couple times but not consistently. Currently running forge wga with yellow spring about 3.5 turns
Remember to LUBE UP those DP studs and you’ll be golden. Also remember to leave everything loose (but connected) and then start to really tighten from the DP studs to CP, THEN the rest of the final tightening.
Also be sure to check out the fitment due to the large welds on the gwr CP.

Cheers,
 
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I'm paying Ernie's muffler and brakes to do the work. I've done the intercooler and 1446+ on my own, but 2020 gave me covid and a heart attack. Gonna trust the pros this time.

Already broke and repaired one of the m8s on the downpipe during the turbo install. Suspect it's loose and wonky and may push for drill outs and m10 bolts on this install
You (they) got this
 
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@SpiritedAway I'm not on Phase 3 (currently Phase 2, stock turbo), but my AFR is in the 11's as well like @sharkcohen. This is both with my P3 Multi-Functional Gauge, and also when I logged using the OBD Fusion app (you mentioned iPhone and this is what I use with my iPhone, what App are you using?).

When checking my OBD Fusion logs, "A/F Actual" is in the 11's (matching my P3 Gauge), but there is another reading in the OBD Fusion app for "A/F Commanded" which reads about 18-19 for that run (which is what you're saying you have). Could it be that you're possibly logging the wrong AFR parameter?

As for boost, i'm on 93oct and i'm usually around 25-26psi peak depending on the day. This is absolute peak and does not hold much. Usually holds 23-25psi through the meat of the rev range and then drops to 16psi if I take it up to redline.
The 19 AF is commanded, but both Shark and Haz saw it and said it was wrong / engine was gonna melt lmao.
 
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Now check this out, this is very interesting. Made a chart with one of my recorded sessions and the power fell even though it was also WOT!

84521

I wonder with a tune how accurate this is / in terms of power delivery, not max numbers. Does a spike here at 155 horsepower = a spike of 200 horsepower with a tune for example, or is it not reliable at all with a tune?
 
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Because you reported it as your actual af. And they both said that that isn't correct because if it were your car would melt. Don't mis report what they said.

They were correct. The af values you reported aren't correct actual af values. They are af requests by the vehicle. Commanded or control inputs
I didn’t claim it was either commanded or actual, because I actually don’t/didn’t know there was a difference.

What I did share was the image and it clearly says Fuel/Air Com Ratio
84522

The devil is in the details my friend, and in ignorance

But hey, this is how you learn, by working together.

Now...I am more curious about the apparent power fluctuations, thoughts?
 
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Look at relative throttle position. That is the ACTUAL butterfly valve position in the throttle body. Absolute is the pedal and think of it more of asking for levels of POWER not actual gas. Then the ECU figures out how much fuel, timing, boost, etc to make the power you asked for if possible.

Even with your foot on the floor, the car will do the actual deciding HOW much gas its going to give the car based on all the other checks. Flooring it on a cold day vs flooring it on a hot day will deliver 2 different fuel rates.

Take my shifting into 4th issue with asking for too much power 2 years ago. When I would hit 4th all out, the relative throttle would pull back with the timing until the engine caught up and then it would jump back up to the 90%+ range. It's a safety feature.
Got it, added both.
 
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Forgot to mention that using the ABS vs REL can point you to some things like the my issue with asking for TOO much power that the ECU was not wanting to give. You could see that my foot was on the floor at 90+ ABS but the ECU was only giving half gas (REL) until it thought it was safe to give more.
Alrighty, done
 
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New app / dashboard: @sharkcohen
84617

Basically, where I am at right now, it’s not gonna work. It’s not immediate and I think each display’s responsiveness varies. I mean look at this:
29 actual F/R in neutral? Lol.
84618
 
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