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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Turn off WiFi and use Bluetooth. Don't need ELM to log data.

Or Turn off ELM and Enable Generic OBD. One or the other.
 
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Thanks, it was at 100ms by default, moved to 50ms which should be better.
50ms may or may not be better. If a PID doesn't have an update, you may get repeating values.
 
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Some things only update ever second, some a little faster. 50 is too fast.
 

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What I have been using is “Trigger on PID frame” which basically means you get a data point as the PIDs have an update. But, the overall resolution seems lower. You need to play with these settings to find what works best for you.
 
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@SpiritedAway I also use “Trigger on PID frame” as @sharkcohen does (I believe this makes the app start logging right when you start the car). I've only logged a few runs 1 time but most importantly don't try to screenshot it in real time. For one thing, it is EXTREMELY delayed in the app interface (for me at least). I'm going to assume it is for you too since in those 2 screenshots, one shows only 6psi and the second you're in vacuum but you said you were WOT.

What you want to do is from the main menu click Logs, then on the bottom if it's not already selected hit "Files". This is where your data log files are kept. They are dated/timed. Click the one you want and for me I just Airdrop the CSV to my iMac. You can email it or whatever. You can also view the CSV in the app for a quick glance.

But I suggest to send that CSV file to your computer and open it. Then you can view everything properly. Further more you can upload that CSV to an app that will organize it in an easy to read graph. And what I did was delete the rows that I wasn't trying to log (since it logged the entire drive) before uploading the CSV. I just did this so I can get a graph of only certain pulls to stay organized. I was just messing around and didn't want to see a graph with the entire drive but it worked perfect with how I did it! I'll try to create a YouTube video on my Channel for this. Link here to my YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/c/DrivenDistrict (shameless plug but trying to grow the Channel so if anyone is genuinely interested in the content, Subscribing would really help, and thanks to everyone who is!)
 

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Agree w/ @Evolved import the .CSV to a PC then open. I use Excel to freeze the top row with the header names, highlight columns with color for boost, RPM, IAT, Timing, etc so you can quick scan. Graphs can be made from there but there are other programs that do it all for you by dragging a column of data into it and drop it. I watched Toby do it when I was in Oklahoma but I did not ask what program it was. He would just drag all Boost over and it plopped a zigzag, dragged over RPM and a new color zigzag showed up overlaid in perfect sync. Excel for Bubbas, I dunno.
 
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Update, got a CEL.

This is good news honestly, basically says I have to fix the broken Downpipe stud (which I was gonna do anyways).

Hopefully this means no tune/boost/WGA mystery anymore :)

Thoughts?
84745
 

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May not have mattered. They are twigs
 
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Update, got a CEL.

This is good news honestly, basically says I have to fix the broken Downpipe stud (which I was gonna do anyways).

Hopefully this means no tune/boost/WGA mystery anymore :)

Thoughts?
View attachment 84745
It could be the broken downpipe stud. It could also be those welds on the crosspipe interfering with the nuts seating properly. Maybe you should grind down the welds where the nuts seat so they can properly seat. Or, replace it with the GWR 2.25" crosspipe, which doesn't have that issue.
 
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It could be the broken downpipe stud. It could also be those welds on the crosspipe interfering with the nuts seating properly. Maybe you should grind down the welds where the nuts seat so they can properly seat. Or, replace it with the GWR 2.25" crosspipe, which doesn't have that issue.
Good points. @DanB let’s do some grinding
 

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I thought the half washer spacers already solved the weld clearance issue
 
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I thought the half washer spacers already solved the weld clearance issue
I think the clearance issue has been improved, but grinding the weld a bit couldn’t hurt.

But the little stub of a stud left is simply not optimal to get a proper seal, unfortunately. At least it doesn’t last TIGHT for over 1-2 weeks. When it is recently tight though, and felt perfect and ran like magic. Looking forward to making it run like that again - permanently.
 

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Here was my situation..... I'm not sure if that larger m10 bolt threaded right in to the larger hole, or if he tapped it or put a nut behind it......but no code so far
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Bicycle part Gas
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Auto part
 
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Does anyone know if the stud threads/is threaded into the downpipe, or if it’s just forced in there?

My father is pretty handy and suggested I use a center punch to get the broken stud loose and take it out.

Sounds like an easy solution, but won’t work easily if it threads.
 
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