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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Try as I might, I could not find recommended points for jack stands under the 124 for the winter...

Other than "Not on the suspension, newbie", This is what I was able to come up with.

Any thought from others that are more familar with hoisting their cars off the ground for the winter?

Front is on the member to which the front A-arm mounting brackets are welded.
Rear I am unsure how to describe, but is an outboard cross-member directly beneath the suspension mounting bracket




Related: boy the car looks goofy at full droop with 3-4" clearance under the tires.
 

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There aren't any visible pucks or markings on the pinch welds? Have you checked the manual for the jacking points, it should be listed so the owner knows where to jack in scenarios of a flat tire or whatever the case may be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There aren't any visible pucks or markings on the pinch welds? Have you checked the manual for the jacking points, it should be listed so the owner knows where to jack in scenarios of a flat tire or whatever the case may be.
The manual is rather ambiguous on that point, and there was nothing obvious underneath the vehicle.

The manual actually shows lifting by the side skirt underneath the door or underneath the fender. While I'm sure they mean the structural points in that area, it is ambiguous. Given that I can deflect the panel by squeezing with my hand, I elected to find other points under the vehicle.

Unfortunately, it's also remarkably difficult to put the jack stand under the same point used by the floor jack ;)
 

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Most of us know our cars share a platform with the mx 5. The UK MX 5 owners club recommends jacking the car from the front from the centre of the front cross member. From the rear via the differential casing. I used the front cross member when recently taking a look under the car. No problems. Once it was high enough I placed ramps under both front wheels. Also, placed axel stands as shown in your photo and left the trolley jack in position. The manual transmission car was in gear with the hand brake on. Chocks placed to the front and rear of both rear wheels.

Once lifted, it may be possible to store the car on axel stands, inside of the wheels (ie the cill area on other platforms). In this scenario I would suggest spreading the load by placing a single length of wood, under the car and on top of the axel stands, running along each side of the car. Please feel free to disagree.

Raising the car at the road side, using a trunk jack would be a heart in the mouth time for me.
 

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There aren't any visible pucks or markings on the pinch welds? Have you checked the manual for the jacking points, it should be listed so the owner knows where to jack in scenarios of a flat tire or whatever the case may be.
The service manual has a section on standard procedures for hoisting the car. That section contains the words "Work in Progress." You would think they would know how to explain that before they knew how to explain dismantling the front suspension. I am not very happy with my 150 dollar service manual.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You would think they would know how to explain that before they knew how to explain dismantling the front suspension.
Unless the car fell off the jacks while dismantling the suspension, inspiring the re-think?
 

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According to both the User's Manual and the Owner's Manual, the car lifting points are marked on the side skirts with the ▼ symbols. I could not find those marks.
John, that's pretty sad that the Fiat Service manual doesn't even help. Here’s an excerpt from the MX-5 manual…

2016 – MX-5 – JACKING POSITIONS, VEHICLE LIFT (2 SUPPORTS) AND SAFETY STAND (RIGID RACK) POSITIONS


JACKING POSITIONS

WARNING:

Improperly jacking a vehicle is dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and cause serious injury. Use only the correct front and rear jacking points and block the wheels.
CAUTION:

Use safety stands to support the vehicle after it has been lifted.
NOTE:

To prevent obstruction between the jack body and front bumper when the jack body is inserted, use a low-floor type jack.



VEHICLE LIFT-UP POSITIONS

WARNING:

Lifting a vehicle is dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the lift and cause serious injury and/or vehicle damage. Make sure that the vehicle is on the lift horizontally by adjusting the height of support at the end of the arm of the lift.

FRONT AND REAR

Both sides of the vehicle, on side sills.
 

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Reviving this old thread because I still cannot find the answer to the question...what 4 points are best for putting the car up in the air on standard jack stands for long periods of time?

NOT where do you jack up the car, but rather where are good locations to place jack stand?

I have put the stands along the pinch welds with the stand top front to back, but this seems very much not ideal. If I rotate it 90 degrees now the ends are on spots to either side of the pinch weld that I'm not sure are solid enough to support the car and the C is too deep for the pinch weld to make any contact,

Given that getting this wrong seems to have high potential for damaging the car or me, I'd like to be pretty sure. I've got shocks and springs to change and I want the car high and stable.
 

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Reviving this old thread because I still cannot find the answer to the question...what 4 points are best for putting the car up in the air on standard jack stands for long periods of time?
Have a read of this
 

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Struggled with this as well when lifting the car to change exhaust. Along the pinch welds both front and back are areas which are marked with slight dimples. They do not seem to be marked with arrows as the manual says. These are where the jack stands go/lifting locations. However, you will more than likely need a pinch weld adapter for the top of your jack stand as I did. I used a trolley jack to raise the car from the rear diff housing and then slid the jack stands underneath and slowly lowered the car on them. Adapters can be had on amazon for a few bucks fyi.
 

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Struggled with this as well when lifting the car to change exhaust. Along the pinch welds both front and back are areas which are marked with slight dimples. They do not seem to be marked with arrows as the manual says. These are where the jack stands go/lifting locations. However, you will more than likely need a pinch weld adapter for the top of your jack stand as I did. I used a trolley jack to raise the car from the rear diff housing and then slid the jack stands underneath and slowly lowered the car on them. Adapters can be had on amazon for a few bucks fyi.
That's pretty much what I've been doing when I do tire rotations and the like. I've found recessed areas (no triangles ever found), and use rubber/plastic pinch weld adaptor pucks with the floor jack to raise the vehicle up. Done that quite a few times now, and it seems okay, aside from the undercoating crap that gets bonded to the pucks. If you don't have an undercoating applied, then you should be pucking spotless. :)
 
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