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Discussion Starter #1
Installed today, will give detailed impressions after car adapts. I have 2 questions for those with it.

1. During WOT, after it reaches peak PSI (25 or so), it will start to go down in boost (while still WOT). So like 3.5k-4.8k = 25 psi then 5k 22 psi, 6k 20 psi. Normal boost dumping? Car didn’t feel slower during this.

2. How drastic is the difference between the first few miles and after 100 when the car has fully adapted? Does it get faster? Or is it just a smoothness improvement?

Thanks :)
 

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Normal. You get a little rush/spike at first until the WG regulates to the set boost line at ~22-24PSI for P2. That's the part that needs full travel of the arm so it doesn't spike to something like 40PSI. The car also has to learn how to use that new boost level, timing limits, and whatever else is tweaked in a tune. That is not boost dump. Boost dump is the divert valve recirculating/blowing off because the car thinks something is wrong with the WG and it will buck like a pissed off horse when it's doing it. One of the first signs of too high of a crack pressure set on the WG is the bucking dump.

As long as conditions are favorable, it will keep improving and be quicker to adjust to high demand at its new top end whatever that ends up. After a week, collect some data logs of some hard 2nd through 4th pulls and send them in to EC to be looked at and the tune tweaked. I know you won't have to wait months for a reply.
 

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What tool is used to log the data? Is it thru the handheld or via an OBD Reader?
 

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Same rolloff rate I get with p1, obviously with lower boost numbers.

Assuming you are using an uprated IC?
 

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Installed today, will give detailed impressions after car adapts. I have 2 questions for those with it.

1. During WOT, after it reaches peak PSI (25 or so), it will start to go down in boost (while still WOT). So like 3.5k-4.8k = 25 psi then 5k 22 psi, 6k 20 psi. Normal boost dumping? Car didn’t feel slower during this.

2. How drastic is the difference between the first few miles and after 100 when the car has fully adapted? Does it get faster? Or is it just a smoothness improvement?

Thanks :)
Stage 2 with no intercooler upgrade? Looking at your signature.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What tool is used to log the data? Is it thru the handheld or via an OBD Reader?
@Calehedron

Just got an OBDII Reader, so use that with an app or does the tablet itself save logs?
 

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Stage 2 with no intercooler upgrade? Looking at your signature.
Works just fine without the IC, as I expected. I’m sure it might work a bit better with it installed but that’s 800 + 650 bucks.

I have the NGEN shop locally to install it later.
 
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Fair enough!

Juat be aware that stock tubing is leaking pretty bad by 25psi. I've worked hard to get mine to a 15s leak rate from 24psi to 19, but above thay I'd be worried.

In 90f heat (as per a previous post) I'd be concerned about the IC outlet temps under 25psi plus of sustained boost....

But I'm no expert!

Totally agree about cost, just be thankful you have an option! No good RHD IC optioms thay arent really expensive!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fair enough!

Juat be aware that stock tubing is leaking pretty bad by 25psi. I've worked hard to get mine to a 15s leak rate from 24psi to 19, but above thay I'd be worried.

In 90f heat (as per a previous post) I'd be concerned about the IC outlet temps under 25psi plus of sustained boost....

But I'm no expert!

Totally agree about cost, just be thankful you have an option! No good RHD IC optioms thay arent really expensive!!!
Wouldn’t the engine show me if it gets too hot? Like reaching 210 or more? (Happened to me once before without Turbo Blanket and CAI, stock tune during a hot day and lots of intense limit driving in the canyons without breaks.

And also once in my other car in Puerto Rico during autocross on a very hot day with no breaks.

Hopefully it’s as easy as monitoring engine heat to know how fast I should upgrade the fmic?

What are the consequences of it “leaking” at 25 psi?
 

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Installed today, will give detailed impressions after car adapts. I have 2 questions for those with it.

1. During WOT, after it reaches peak PSI (25 or so), it will start to go down in boost (while still WOT). So like 3.5k-4.8k = 25 psi then 5k 22 psi, 6k 20 psi. Normal boost dumping? Car didn’t feel slower during this.

2. How drastic is the difference between the first few miles and after 100 when the car has fully adapted? Does it get faster? Or is it just a smoothness improvement?

Thanks :)
It is very very normal for the boost to drop down simply because OEM 1446 cannot maintain high boost pressure at RPM higher than like 5300.
Basically if you want better usable power for "Racing" then you should go with a big turbo.

OEM boost is between 2500-5300 RPM
My 1700s from speedmotive is from around 3700-6700 before falling off like the OEM does until it hit redline at 7200RPM

It basically shifts the power brand upward, which will result in more power and better accleration, but not for daily or lower-mid RPMs

Now for street driving this is horrible XD

Your intercooler issue:

For street driving it would barely make a difference
unless you do sustain WOT pulls it wouldn't make too much difference, however you'll see your AIT goes up quickly with inreased boost like that

but for repeated drag strip runs or track driving, YOU NEED the INTERCOOLER upgrade
 

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If you are running Phase 2 anything, you should replace the FMIC. It is fine for a pull or two but that is going to change if you start running the car hard in the mountains or track. Get the intercooler, you will be glad you did.

Remember, with turbo engines, it is all about heat management. Don't skimp on that part.
 
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@Calehedron

Just got an OBDII Reader, so use that with an app or does the tablet itself save logs?
I use OBD Fusion on my phone and then use the Kindle on track days to collect the larger logs.

Heat means a lot to this car. Not just the coolant system that holds 195F pretty well except under the most extreme conditions, but IAT and EGT that should make the ECU pull back if it isn't safe. I am going to wrap or blanket everything this time around, vents, rerouting/redesign the ram air horn. Everything to cut the heat in the engine bay and let it breathe the coolest air possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It is very very normal for the boost to drop down simply because OEM 1446 cannot maintain high boost pressure at RPM higher than like 5300.
Basically if you want better usable power for "Racing" then you should go with a big turbo.

OEM boost is between 2500-5300 RPM
My 1700s from speedmotive is from around 3700-6700 before falling off like the OEM does until it hit redline at 7200RPM

It basically shifts the power brand upward, which will result in more power and better accleration, but not for daily or lower-mid RPMs

Now for street driving this is horrible XD

Your intercooler issue:

For street driving it would barely make a difference
unless you do sustain WOT pulls it wouldn't make too much difference, however you'll see your AIT goes up quickly with inreased boost like that

but for repeated drag strip runs or track driving, YOU NEED the INTERCOOLER upgrade
Interesting you say it starts at 2,500 with stock turbo, I don’t think I ever see 20+ PSI below 3.25k even if I do WOT from 1.75k...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you are running Phase 2 anything, you should replace the FMIC. It is fine for a pull or two but that is going to change if you start running the car hard in the mountains or track. Get the intercooler, you will be glad you did.

Remember, with turbo engines, it is all about heat management. Don't skimp on that part.
If only you had not taken it off your website 🤷‍♂️ !

Will you ever bring them back or are they gone forever and EC is the only option?
 

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If only you had not taken it off your website 🤷‍♂️ !

Will you ever bring them back or are they gone forever and EC is the only option?
Afe is the other option for intercooler replacement.
 

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Here is the boost, AF ratio, and advance on my unmodified 124 Abarth. Ambient temp: 79F / 26C. The dashed line is without enabling the Sport mode (same results). Notice how full boost is reached just after 2500 RPM. I would love to see what P1 and P2 do to these measures.
76825

An unrelated question to the forum: the timing advance looks awful to me. Is it normal to have timing retardation at low RPM? (I am using Shell 93)
 

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Have to talk ambient temps otherwise number comparisons dont work. A 10c jump in ambient takes my peak boost from 19 to nearly 22psi, and at 26c ambient I peak at 24psi.

However at 20c ambient this is my readings from a gauge:

2k 14psi
3k 22psi
4k 21psi
5k 21 psi
6k 17psi
6.8k 15psi

At stock it dropped WAY earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Could anyone answer the what are the consequences of stock IC leaks?
Loss of PSI? Loss of Power? Loss of heat management?
 
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