[alessley95]

Hey everyone!
Came back from cruising, and I unfortunately pulled into my parking spot at my apartment from the wrong approach. There's an eroding retaining wall that I brushed up against causing the side skirt to fall off.

Fortunately it looks like there's only a small crack along one of the slots one of the underside retainers hooks into, but it's small enough that it doesn't go along the entire piece and is only visible if you flex the part.

Since the only thing I need to replace are the retaining buttons at the splash guards, I figured it would be easy to just pop on. Unfortunately I didn't realize how hard it is to align all the retainers to the piece. It's just me popping the skirt back on, and other than using my phone's front camera to ensure the underbody retainers are lined up I'm having difficulty figuring out how to align everything. The service manual just says to fit the skirt in place and engage the retainers, but I can't figure out how to do that.
Anyone have any advice on how I can get this fixed?
Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Good-Win Racing]

It gets attached under the car first.

Start with taking those green plastic pop clips off the car and install them back on the rocker panel. Try to get them off the car without breaking them (i have popped them from the car with a serving fork though there is a tool made for the task). You then look at the low side of rocker panel, that low side needs to get attached under the car and SLID into place before the pop green connectors along the top half of the rocker panel get lined up with their holes and snapped back in. Once bottom is properly slid into place...then top just pops on if you have those green bits aligned right (take your time to make sure ALL of them lined up nice before you pop upper half back on)..

And now the trick to keep them on the car forever. Same part on the ND Miata and we commonly knock them off with racing (autocross cone strikes, etc). We came up with simple use of pair of self taping screws to keep them on, which got copied into TSB for Global Cup Cars using same simple addition of screws to keep these on once you get it back on. See PDF link in our forum at THIS LINK.

Mazda also now makes a clip (“Clip, N243-51-SJ3” ) that can be installed when rocker is off the car that is the new factory alternative to our use of a pair of self taping screws....but we still do it our way. This became standard with 30AE and is not on my 2019 ND2 Miata.

 

[alessley95]

Awesome! Thanks for the information! Didn't know I had to take off the clips. That makes sense

 

[Charles Malinowski]

Thank you Brian for a solution to this posting.
Late last year I purchased my first sports car, 2017 124, and love it.
Recently the lower rocker panel popped off during a roll thru the local car wash.
I was able to remove some of the green clips with the kitchen fork and visited the local MAZDA dealer for 5 new clips. My wife Barbara assisted and the reattachment went really well. FIRST slide the bottom grey clips and SECOND pop-in the green clips to the body. A local auto parts supply a pair of “pop-rivets” to secure the rocker panel to the wheel wells.
Thanks again and safe and happy 124 Adventures.
Charles

 

[17221]

Recently the lower rocker panel popped off during a roll thru the local car wash.

A lot of us have drilled holes and installed self-tapping stainless steel screws to more permanently attach the rocker panel. Here's a good thread about it.

(image credit: @Good-Win Racing)

 

[Charles Malinowski]

A lot of us have drilled holes and installed self-tapping stainless steel screws to more permanently attach the rocker panel. Here's a good thread about it.

(image credit: @Good-Win Racing)

Magoffin: Thanks for the reply and I will check out the thread. 2 months, many miles and no issues.

 

[SportbikeJohn]

Hi!
Had my 2020 Lusso with 800 miles on it shipped from Mississippi. In the process, the trucker hit the passenger rockerpanel and pushed it back two inches:

The trucker pushed it back in, and thus, nothing was aligned and some clips didn't get connected.
It's under insurance, so, I guess I'll be taking it to a body shop for the work. I'm more worried about the body shop not knowing what they are doing.

After the trucker pushed it back forward 2 inches:

Not that noticeable from a distance, but it has to come off and repositioned. I'd like to do it myself, but it is under the truckers insurance and I chance damaging something, or, perhaps there was other damage when they pushed it back. There's absolutely no discernable damage from the outside except for that the front and rear rockerpanel areas are popped out, being off the green clips. You can see the green clip from the rear.

What's the safest way to get the rockerpanel off? I see your instructions on putting it back on... align the bottom and slide into place, and then position green clips and pop the top in.

How to you remove the rockerpanel the correct way? Should I chance just letting the body shop do it? They admitted that they have not worked on a Miata or Fiat, but could do it. They also admitted that when taking it off, they often break clips, and have to order the clips. I understand that these clips are not in the USA and have to be special ordered?

This particular front gray clip is turned a bit. I'm concerned it is damaged and won't place right in the rockerpanel, or cause the front to be out a bit. Do the gray clips turn in their place, and thus, this gray clip can simply be turned and positioned to mate with the rockerpanel once the rockerpanel is off, repositioned, and slide on correctly onto/into the gray clips, or, is this evidence that the gray clip is damaged.. that they do not turn in place like that and something needs to be realigned?

Thank you so much for your thoughts and feedback.

John

 

[Calehedron]

Quick description:

Pull the skirt to the rear and down with the door open and it should come off. There are 2 clips, the big Gray on the bottom and a bunch of smaller green ones all over. Pull all the green ones out of the body and put them on the skirt. Then align and slide the bottom clips into their grooves until it is fully forward and green clips align with holes. Now rock upward and PUSH at the green clips to pop them all into place.

After that, you can put a self tapping screw in a few places at the gray clips to keep it from sliding back again.

 

[SportbikeJohn]

Thank you.

Did you find any particular method best for moving the rockerpanel toward the rear without damaging the rockerpanel? I imagine the front mud flap must first be removed.

And for holding the rockerpanel while aligning the bottom gray clips, what is the best way to stabilize/position the rockerpanel while attempting to slide the rockerpanel groves under the clips?

I'll be doing it solo.

Do those gray clips turn at all in their housing? I have one that looks to be a bit turned, and I'm hoping it won't give me any issues with sliding the rockerpanel into place.

Thank you for your information.

 

[Calehedron]

There are a few snap rivets and/or screws on the front and rear liners that may need to be removed, I did mine with everything off due to other upgrades at the time. If it slid, most of the greens are already popped free so it should come back and then roll down pretty easily. Mine did have some broken risers so I had to fix them with Epoxy first.

Yes, the big gray do rotate and you will need to align them before sliding the bottom on. The bottom part does hinge a little to allow the skirt to lean outward until it is slid forward to the end. Once you are on the same vertical plane of clips and holes, just rotate it in toward the car and snap the green clips into their holes. It is not difficult solo, just take your time.

 

[SportbikeJohn]

Thank you so much for your wisdom. You are appreciated. The riserd you mentioned... what are those?

I understand there's a special tool that pulls off the clips without breaking them, and also a tool to remove the snap rivets; do you remember the names of those tools.

Since it's my understanding that obtaining the clips is difficult, a tool that assists in safe removal might be well worth it.

Thank you again.

 

[Calehedron]

You would see once you pull the skirt but I found these 2 broken risers that hold green clips. J-B Weld 2 Part epoxy to the rescue and better than new!

There is a forked tool for the snap rivets but a fingernail or small screwdriver work just fine. As far as the green clips, without getting to the rear there is no perfect way to get them out if they are still in the body. Wiggle, needlenose pliers, coax, curse, and maybe a drink. The last 2 get me through just about anything.

 

[SportbikeJohn]

You would see once you pull the skirt but I found these 2 broken risers that hold green clips. J-B Weld 2 Part epoxy to the rescue and better than new!

There is a forked tool for the snap rivets but a fingernail or small screwdriver work just fine. As far as the green clips, without getting to the rear there is no perfect way to get them out if they are still in the body. Wiggle, needlenose pliers, coax, curse, and maybe a drink. The last 2 get me through just about anything.
View attachment 88810
View attachment 88811

Your information is priceless. I have been thinking about doing my own fix because there are so many things to consider if the body shop does it.

1. Do they know the lift points?
2. Do they know how to take it off, about how to slide it.
3. Will they break the rockerpanel, clip holders, clips?

So, I've been on some discussions regarding lift points, jacks to use (ramps versus jackstands versus 5000 hydraulic lift) to figure out how to do it myself; I was thinking about it anyway.

But I'm concerned that I'll do it wrong and break or make something worse. So I was going to have this body shop do it. They said it was like $68 bucks and it would be an easy job. They've been in business for decades.

But today, I asked the hard questions and got real answers:

Do you know how to lift this type of low car with certain lift points? "Yes. We lift F250's, large trucks, all types. We have low jacks too and all types of equipment." So right away I'm thinking they have no idea the damage they can do to this car if they don't lift it at the lift points.

Then she said that which really made my decision clear, "There's no where to pry off the rockerpanel because we can't get behind it; we would scratch the paint. So often times they break. If we break the panel, we won't be liable. It is $800 to $1400 to replace it; I looked it up. I just don't know which one is yours."

OK. That about sealed the deal that I need to do this myself. I'm thinking I have to:

1. Undo the mud flap pins (I forgot their name). Then the rear mud flap pins.
2. Then (and this is the part I don't know how to do), I somehow slide the entire unit backward past the gray and green clips, hoping to not break them.
3. After the piece is off, I position the gray lower clips, and attach the green clips to the rockerpanel.
4. Then I slide the lower portion of the panel onto the gray clips, sliding the rockerpanel so that the gray clips enter the slots.
5. Then, carefully, I position the upper portion to where I press in the clips to where they go, and that should do it.

The one part that i'm really unsure of the process is how to take it off the rockerpanel... just "how" to slide it rearward without doing any damage. Mallet to the front area and tap it backward? There are instructions on how to re-attach the rockerpanel, but not much on taking it off. I guess most people already have it off from whatever caused it to get dislodged in the first place.

For me, the trucker slapped it forward and missed many of the gray clips and a few green clips.

For lifting, I'm thinking lifting with a hydraulic jack at the front mid area just forward of the oil pan, then placing two jackstands on each front arm, and then lift it up at the back differential, and do the same, like so:

Lifting the back up while the front is on stands is the very hard thing; I would be trusting everything on two jackstands for a moment.

So I considered the 5000 lift, but I am way unclear on where it meets the side lift points because it appears that those side lift points are actually on the plastic rockerpanel itself, which won't help in my particular situation. I do like the stability of the hydraulic 5000 lift... but the points it connects too seem hard to grasp (people do it all the time, so I'll research that a bit more at it would be my first option.)

Seems the blocks on the hydraulic lifts sit on the seam weld front and back.

That lift point seems to be at the rockerpanel:

Lots to consider.

The main thing right now is gaining experience and confidence on how to remove the passenger rockerpanel without breaking it.

Thank you again for all you have done. The 2020 Lusso rides like a dream. The suspension is much softer... "touring".... than the 2021 Miata and Abarth's. It's a real pleasure to drive. The only issue is bird poop on the softtop. LOL.

 

[SportbikeJohn]

You would see once you pull the skirt but I found these 2 broken risers that hold green clips. J-B Weld 2 Part epoxy to the rescue and better than new!

There is a forked tool for the snap rivets but a fingernail or small screwdriver work just fine. As far as the green clips, without getting to the rear there is no perfect way to get them out if they are still in the body. Wiggle, needlenose pliers, coax, curse, and maybe a drink. The last 2 get me through just about anything.
View attachment 88810
View attachment 88811

Hi again, and thank you. Did your risers break during the removal of the rockerpanel?

I'm still researching the best removal where I cause the least amount of damage. I may have to just unclasp those fender fasteners front and back and just slide the thing rearward, hoping for the best. If there is a specific way, I hope to find out before I make the attempt.

Thank you again for your wisdom.

 

[Calehedron]

I'm sure the risers broke when the car fell on the floor jack. It never sat right, slid back constantly, until I removed and fixed it.

If yours slid back, most of the green clips have already come loose. Free it from the front and rear wheel liners, pull the door sill trim, and slide it back again. Assess the damage if any underneath. Repair, replace as necessary, install as described prior.

 

[ameridan]

There is an install procedure described here...

Securing Your Rocker Panel Trim, Proactively

(Rocker panel trim is the painted plastic body trim underneath the doors) Quite a while ago, I recall reading how those that were auto-crossing and racing their Miatas and perhaps coming in contact…

21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com

 

[SportbikeJohn]

I'm sure the risers broke when the car fell on the floor jack. It never sat right, slid back constantly, until I removed and fixed it.

If yours slid back, most of the green clips have already come loose. Free it from the front and rear wheel liners, pull the door sill trim, and slide it back again. Assess the damage if any underneath. Repair, replace as necessary, install as described prior.

After the trucker slid the rocker panel trim forward, the green clamps appear to be fastened almost everywhere but an area in front and a place in back. Underside, there is more disconnect evidence with the gray clips.

Looks like I'm practically taking it off afresh, which is why I inquired as to the actual proper way to start the slide rearward after the wheel well body clips are removed.

I could just yank on it at the rear where it's separated a bit, or, tap with a rubber mallet in front to send the rocker panel trim rearward.

In not sure how others with properly positioned rocker panel trim pieces started their removal process; did they just bang the front until it slid reward?

Thank you for your information. I'd like to start the removal as one would a new car with the rocker panel trim completely affixed, which is close to my situation.

I don't have a hanging piece to just grab to remove it the rest of the way like I suspect those with rocker panel trim pieces that have actually come off for whatever reason. I would probably have had a better time at it had the trucker not attempted an on- the-spot-fix and left it slid rearward.

I'm just researching how to start the removal process so I don't break the risers attached to the green clips myself.

Putting it on seems straightforward, though probably best done with a few people so everything is lined up on the initial slide forward (seems that there are not only lower gray clips to align and slide into, but also two side clips, one in front, and one in back, that need to be aligned and slid into WHILE the green clips are positioned on the rocker panel trim piece (in a way to align with their body receiving hole). That's a lot to have aligned for one person when shifting the rocker panel trim forward into position. People have obviously done it.

I can just imagine my removal attempt by either pushing or pulling the rocker panel trim rearward only to hear a "crack", breaking the rocker panel trim as the body shop said often happens

Than you again.