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1,152 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Removing Front Emblem (Abarth)​

To remove the front/hood emblem by going in from the engine bay, to access the fastener(s) on the back side of the emblem.

When having your car wrapped (for example) emblems are usually removed and then put back. The front emblem, although simply attached, does not appear to have an easy way of reaching the ONE NUT holding it on. There are two options: remove the front grille or go in from the back (in the engine bay).

As a side note it may be possible to use a long wrench through the grill to reach the nut holding the emblem in place: you can see the nut. I did not attempt this for one simple reason: I didn't know there was only 1 nut holding the emblem in place. I believed I could see a 'front' nut, but not a 'back' nut.

This is what you have to do to get at it from the back.

NOTE: you will be cutting away plastic trim! It will not be visible, but the effect of cutting away a 6" by 3" piece of plastic is currently unknown at this point! So; at your own risk!

NOTE: This only covers removal, and NOT putting it back. I may update putting it all back after my hood wrap is done.

Small screwdriver;
10mm ratcheting wrench;
Drill with 3/16 black oxide bit (not critical - see below);
Demel with a cutoff blade for cutting plastic;
Small hands;
Vacuum cleaner and rags, cloths or paper towels;
Needle nosed pliers;
Duct tape (optional);
Towel/blanket/bodywork protector (optional);
Flashlight (always useful).

None for removal;


1. Removing plastic panel

Open the hood and identify the hood release lever; beneath the lever is a panel, approximately 10" wide (this is looking forward, to the front of the car, from the engine):

There are two plastic fasteners (orange) that can be removed with a small screwdriver or your fingernail. Sometimes these pop out and will go flying, so hold the top of it to prevent it flying into the bowels of the car.

Drill out the two black-headed aluminum rivets, blue circles. I used paper towels and duct tape (sticky side up) to collect the shavings. If you go very carefully (slowly) the head will pop off and leave the remainder of the rivet in place. Use a black oxide drill bit as it will not clog as much as, say, a titanium (gold colored) drill bit. I used a 3/16" drill bit: just enough yo break the head loose from the rest of the rivet. You may be able to go smaller, but any larger may cause the rivet to spin rather than be drilled out. Go gently and slowly, it will not take more than around 15-30 seconds to remove enough rivet material.

Vacuum all the shavings up (if you don't have a shop vac, and use the household one, remember 'better to ask forgiveness than permission'). The duct tape helps the shavings 'stick' rather than go everywhere.

Once the head of the rivets have popped off, the plastic panel should be easily removed by ducking it under the hood latch lever. What you will see is this - another plastic panel, with the area to the underside of the emblem blocked off (I was a sad panda with what I found and was simply hoping to reach through to the emblem):

You can bend this panel away (towards the rear of the car) and reach behind with needle nosed pliers to remove the ends of the rivets that hopefully are still stuck in the plastic. If you were a bit zealous with the drill, the ends may have fallen down - I suspect they will fall out the front grille somewhere, but I was lucky enough to not have to find out.

2. Cutting away behind the removed panel

This is where the dremel or cutting instrument (hack saw blade, etc.) will be working. Again, use duct tape, and paper towels/rags to limit the amount of plastic shavings going everywhere. At this point, if you haven't already done so, put a towel or blanket over the bodywork - a dremel tool carelessly swung will do a huge amount of cosmetic damage in less than a second.

Enough plastic needs cutting away to allow you to get your hand though, and under the front fender, to the back side of the emblem. Work slowly and carefully:

3. Removing the faster on the back of the emblem

Clean up any ragged edges, and try reaching in with your hand, palm up, and feel for the back of the emblem. There is a foam strip which you can compress upwards. You can see this foam strip by looking in and up through the grille.

Once you have decided that you have enough room to put your hand in and feel the nut on the back of the emblem, use a 10 mm wrench and loosen it off. You are doing this by feel, but isn't too bad.

Once the nut is loose, you will be able to just work it off with your fingers. With your other hand, you can support the emblem itself. Once the nut is free, the emblem comes off, leaving three holes - two locator holes and one for the bolt.



Super Moderator
1,210 Posts
Nice. Loving the three holes. A unique look LOL

1,152 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I know there were a couple of questions in other threads regarding emblem removal, and that wrappers had wrapped around it. Myself, I couldn't tolerate knowing that there is a white patch under the emblem.

From the above, hopefully people can decide if they can get through the grille (might be tricky getting the nut back) or the cutting work from the engine bay (or figure out a better way). I had lots of bolts off in the front trying to get at it. They use a lot of black rivets, annoyingly, to hold pieces together.

Apart from the back of my hand, this seemed the most painless way. I'm thinking about an aluminum filler piece to replace the plastic that's been cut.

(Since I'd already broken an intercooler fitting, I actually didn't feel too bad cutting away bits on a new car with less than 2k miles).

280 Posts
I was able to remove my front badge without having to cut any of the plastic.

what I did was use two screwdrivers to prop up the front portion of the nose piece just enough to where I could slide my hand underneath and loosen the nut holding the badge in place.

435 Posts
Just in case anyone else is looking to replace the front badge I'll include this here as well. I found the 'Murat124 approach' as shown in this post worked well.

For removing the badge it was easy enough to unscrew the nut/bolt with the flexible screw driver - less than 5 minutes to do. For putting the new badge on afterwards it took me about 90 minutes of trying to get the right angle for the thread to catch. In the end I did the following:
a) put strong double sided sticky tape in the 10mm socket to ensure the nut didn't fall out by accident, and it also helps make it clear when you have the thread of the bolt
b) used some thin wooden wedges to push the foam out the way that is on the underside of the area where the badge fits as otherwise it is difficult to get the socket lined up to the bolt
c) used a large ring spanner around where the flexible screw driver attaches to the socket to help guide and get the right angle
d) swear a lot as you keep trying and trying and finally shout with excitement when you see the nut rise out of the socket as the thread catches


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