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Discussion Starter #1
I need to remove the plugs so I can gap them, I need to remove the coils, and then the plugs. tia
 

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You will need to remove the rear cross member on the Abarth model to be able to remove the rear coil. Cheers.
 

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i think i read this post funny. i read it as first guy wants to know if you must remove the ignition coils to pull the spark plugs. and i read the second guy as responding with info on the rear suspension, but after rereading i think he is saying that on the A124 you must remove the strut brace located at the rear of the engine compartment in order to gain access to the rear set of ignition coils and plugs.
 

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stupid question but where are the plugs on this thing? And how do you get them out?
 

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stupid question but where are the plugs on this thing? And how do you get them out?
I'm surprised that you're stumped by this one considering all the much more advanced mods you have installed on your car! :p Anyway they're under the engine cover, it pops right off if you lift it. Then just unplug, unscrew, and pull the 4 coil packs out. The plugs are inside the hole left by the pulled coil packs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket and extender to unscrew and extract the plugs. See below images. If you're replacing plugs, the new ones may or may not require anti-seize, be sure to check product instructions.
 

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stupid question but where are the plugs on this thing? And how do you get them out?
I'm surprised that you're stumped by this one considering all the much more advanced mods you have installed on your car! /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif Anyway they're under the engine cover, it pops right off if you lift it. Then just unplug, unscrew, and pull the 4 coil packs out. The plugs are inside the hole left by the pulled coil packs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket and extender to unscrew and extract the plugs. See below images. If you're replacing plugs, the new ones may or may not require anti-seize, be sure to check product instructions.
Lol. I cannot tell a lie. I didn't do many of the mods myself. Some, yes but not all.
Thanks. I feel silly for asking the question.
Good info tho!
 

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Lol. I cannot tell a lie. I didn't do many of the mods myself. Some, yes but not all.
Thanks. I feel silly for asking the question.
Good info tho!
Don't feel bad - prior to the Spider, the last time I worked on any engines significantly, they all had distributor caps and leads to the spark plugs and - in some cases - magnetos. These newfangled ignition coils had me confused briefly.
 

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I just replaced the plugs and coil packs a few weeks ago. Really easy to do, like has already been mentioned. Make sure you do them one at a time, and use one of those blade-type gap tools, not the circular one that was little squares on it. I read somewhere that it's advised to NOT use anti-seize on the plug threads, so I didn't, although I usually do. Just make sure the car is completely cool when you do this, there are lots of hot parts in there!
 

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Lol. I cannot tell a lie. I didn't do many of the mods myself. Some, yes but not all.
Thanks. I feel silly for asking the question.
Good info tho!
Don't feel bad - prior to the Spider, the last time I worked on any engines significantly, they all had distributor caps and leads to the spark plugs and - in some cases - magnetos. These newfangled ignition coils had me confused briefly.
I'm used to distributor caps and rubber caps on the plugs...
 

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Lol. I cannot tell a lie. I didn't do many of the mods myself. Some, yes but not all.
Thanks. I feel silly for asking the question.
Good info tho!

I was wondering where they were hiding as well
 

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Where are the points so I can check the dwell and gap? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think you need a strobe light gun to check the timing also. >:) Is it 5 or 8 degree+.
I still have that strobe light gun and also checking the gap of the points.:confused::confused:
 

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I can't find the crank to start the engine!

Truthfully, I am not a fan of old cars. I remember the days of carburetors, points and condensers, distributor caps, rotors, drum brakes, etc. It was all crap! The computer controlled carburetors of the late 70's through the 80's were especially nasty.

Cars have come a long long way since then... Safer, better built, better optioned, longer lasting, and more reliable. Today's cars stop better, steer better, and the suspensions handle the road better. Modern cars have a lot more horsepower per cubic inch and still get much better gas mileage. On top of all that, they go a lot farther with much less maintenance.

Classic cars are nice to look at, and I gotta hand it to the people who own them, but I have zero interest in having a classic car myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I can't find the crank to start the engine!

It's there, in front of the car you have a toe cap, some paint it in Red, take that LOOP bolt that is in the trunk of the car, Remove the toe cap, put the car in neutral or park(auto) press the start button once with out touching the CLUTCH or break pedal

Tricky part.
now Insert the LOOP bolt, and screw it in 1 turn, now give a quit jerk turn, if car does not start, do it a couple of times. If car has not started yet
go inside the car press the clutch or break pedal and press the start button.

VOILA YOU JUST STARTED THE CAR. 0:):laugh:;)>:)>:)
 

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Since we’ve diverged, here is under the hood of my dad’s 1970 Chevy Nova. He’s been working on this build for FOUR YEARS.

 

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Since we’ve diverged, here is under the hood of my dad’s 1970 Chevy Nova. He’s been working on this build for FOUR YEARS.

Very nice looking engine bay. Your father should be proud. Now rock forward 48 years and that nice looking engine would have a large sheet of plastic on it to cosmetically conceal the engine. I left the cover off my engine, because I like looking at the engine.

Dan
 

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Since we’ve diverged, here is under the hood of my dad’s 1970 Chevy Nova. He’s been working on this build for FOUR YEARS.

Very nice looking engine bay. Your father should be proud. Now rock forward 48 years and that nice looking engine would have a large sheet of plastic on it to cosmetically conceal the engine. I left the cover off my engine, because I like looking at the engine.

Dan
I think it's cool. In a classic kind of way. I get the appeal
 

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No points or carburetor here folks. Throttle body injection, FAST engine management, MSD digital ignition. It runs amazing, and in my opinion it’s a much nicer and more interesting build than all the LS swaps we see at the car shows.
 

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No points or carburetor here folks. Throttle body injection, FAST engine management, MSD digital ignition. It runs amazing, and in my opinion it’s a much nicer and more interesting build than all the LS swaps we see at the car shows.
Fuel pressure gauge, shorty headers, AC, bigger aluminum radiator, upgraded suspension, very nicely done! 'Course a lot of Novas came with V8s, so not much of a challenge there. I was thinking it would be cool to put a 302 into a Volvo P1800 (coupe or wagon), lots of donor cars around with 302s in them, keep it simple with a carbed setup instead of all the electronic sensors and gizmos, and of course do the ripple effect upgrades as well (cooling, trans, rear end, suspension, brakes, etc). But with the right donor car, who knows...and of course, it one has enough money to throw at it, anything's possible!
 
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