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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm not concerned with high power, high volume-level systems. (I also run the factory exhaust, no extra noise is being made.) As previous discussions have shown, the factory door speakers are underwhelming at best, and as they age, my base-level door speakers are decreasing in sound quality.

I listen mainly to jazz. Horns, piano, and drums, and voices, come through well enough from the door speakers and tweeters for my cruising enjoyment. The lower frequency rhythm section, typically a stand-up bass, at best has a minor presence from these speakers, and gets lost at speeds anything above city street speeds, regardless of volume. This also tells me the lower frequency response of these speakers is not low enough, or they are now failing to deliver lower frequencies as they age (3 years in service). A stand-up bass can have a frequency range between 31-530hz, Bass Frequency Range | Bass Gear | StudyBass I'm not interested in a sub-woofer and amplifier installation. I think the factory tweeters are fine at this point in time. I think the door speakers need to go. (I think I'm thinking a lot here, I hope I'm on the right track!)

Not wanting to overwhelm the capability of the radio's output, I think a modest power rated mid-range woofer that will respond well to the power of the radio's amp will do the trick. To that end, looking at Crutchfield's site...

Polk Audio DB6502, 4-ohm 100-watts RMS, with claimed frequency response down to 35hz, and 92db sensitivity, so it should provide the lower hertz I seek at reasonable volume settings. $179 for the set, includes 2 mid-woofer, 2 tweeters, and 2 crossovers. (But if I'm replacing just my door speakers, the tweeters and crossovers are wasted. Is it necessary to run the tweeters and crossovers if leaving the factory tweeters in service?)
Polk Audio DB 6502 DB+ Series 6-1/2" component speaker system — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield

Polk Audio DB652, 4-ohm 100-watts RMS, frequency response down to 40hz, and 92db sensitivity. $79/pair. But, it is a 2-way speaker, so now what do I do about my windshield tweeter, leave it in service or disconnect it? Polk Audio DB 652 DB+ Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield
@King of Hyrule used this set in his car. He hasn't been around in awhile, but I sent him a PM to see how they are working out, and to see what he did with his windshield tweeter. Here's his build- A guide to upgrading the Speakers?

JBL 601CF, 3-ohm, 50-watt RMS, frequency response down to 55hz, 92db @ 2.83v sensitivity, $70 (2 mid-woofer, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, again, tweeters and crossovers wouldn't be used). JBL 601CF Concert Series 6-1/2" 2-way component car speakers at Crutchfield Would a 3-ohm speaker be okay with the factory radio amp? AmeriDan's website states the factory non-bose door speakers are between 3.4-4.6 ohm.

@XtremeRevolution is using the American Bass Symphony 6.5" speaker system in his FITS-build (which ultimately includes an amp and sub-woofer speaker) 4-ohm, 125 watt RMS, frequency response down to 70hz, 91db sensitivity, $148 (2 mid-woofers, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, of which I'd only plan to use the mid-woofers) Amazon.com: American Bass SYMP65 Symphony 6.5 Component: Sports & Outdoors There is a similar 2-way speaker version of this as well- SYMPHONY 6.5

These 4 speakers have a claimed frequency response range from 35-70hz. On paper, lower is better for my wants- I want the rhythm section back on stage!

Summary- I don't seek power and high volume, I seek better low frequency response, hopefully without a sub-woofer. Now that I've typed all this out, and looked at all the linked websites, at first blush I'd say the first speaker listed, the Polk DB6502 should (as claimed!) be able to provide the low frequency rhythm sounds now being lost in the music I most enjoy listening to in my car. But if I spend the $180 for this set, will I need to use the included tweeters and crossovers, or can I simply take out the factory door speakers and replace them with the 6.5" mid-woofers of this set, and be done with it? Or if I go with the cheaper Polk DB652, with its 40hz response, will I have tweeter issues since these have a built-in tweeter and the factory tweeters will still be in service?

Thanks for your patience with me with this posting. Hopefully it brings up new areas of discussion for this topic of speakers.

Steve.
 

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Would like to see what happens with this post from those who have already done the mod. I would like to see what the experts say and how difficult is to do as a DYI.
 

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Is this information valid for cars with the Bose system, (since it isn't that great)?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Base radio uses 4-ohm speakers. I read at AmeriDan's site that the Bose system used 2-ohm speakers. I don't know if it because the way the extra speakers are wired in, or what... But, as long as you are replacing with the same speaker impedance as your OEM, all else of what I inquired about should be the same, just maybe with different ohm-spec speakers.

Steve.
 
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Crutchfield sells their products at a premium, you can more often than not find the same item at a lower price elsewhere. On the other hand, they have great tech support and if you buy something from them they will make sure you have everything you need to ensure it works and that it fits. If you plan to use Crutchfield, rather than asking the forum for advice, give them a call and read your requirements to them. They will take care of you and stand behind their suggestions and support the products they sell. They will even get on the phone and walk you through any problems you may have.. Many people feel this more than justifies their higher prices.

Something else I would suggest you try if available to you, is to visit a local car stereo shop and listen to various speakers. Not trying to be a d1ck, we all have our preferences, but if you feel that the only thing missing in the factory system is better door speakers then pick you speakers by sound rather than performance specs. Listen to different brands and see what you like, you may find speakers that meet your sonic requirements and also save you some money. Just make sure that what you listen to is designed to be used in a two way system.

Speaking of a two way system,plan on keeping or upgrading you tweeters. Do not buy a door speaker with tweeters. High frequencies 'beam' like a spotlight. Tweeters mounted in lower door panels will make your ankles very happy but your ears will feel cheated. In addition, having tweeters in the doors and the door columns will make the sound 'muddy' and indistinct. . This is due to the fact that sound travels relatively slowly. So you will hear the highs from the ear level tweeters first, followed by the highs from down by your feet. This can be addressed by using a DSP (Digital Sound Processor) that can add time delay to the various speakers to ensure all the sound arrives at your ears at the same time. But since you stated that all you want is to change the door speakers, this is obviously out of spec for your needs.

Would like to see what happens with this post from those who have already done the mod. I would like to see what the experts say and how difficult is to do as a DYI.
Replacing door speakers on these cars is about as simple as it gets. FYI, I've done it twice on my car so far.
Three phillips screws, two behind the door pull (Pop off the trim with a thin trim removal tool - couple of bucks on Amazon or Harbour Freight or a butter knife if you're cheap - and one behind the inner door latch and the door panels pop off.
4 Screws and the speakers come out.
If your speakers are deeper than stock buy the Scoche 6.5 inch speaker adapter plates so they don't hit the window lift mechanism.
Buy the Metra speaker harness adapter and you don't even need to cut or splice any wires, just plug the adapter to the end of the factory speaker plug and connect the two wires to the speaker.
FYI, if you buy from Crutchfield they will suggest all the above parts when you order - that is what you pay the premium for when you buy from them.
Rinse and repeat for the other door.
Here are detailed steps on changing door speakers as posted by Ameridan on his blog

If you are even mildly mechanically inclined it should take you 45 minutes tops.
Otherwise buy it from Car Toys and let them install it for you.

"Base radio uses 4-ohm speakers. I read at AmeriDan's site that the Bose system used 2-ohm speakers. I don't know if it because the way the extra speakers are wired in, or what... But, as long as you are replacing with the same speaker impedance as your OEM, all else of what I inquired about should be the same, just maybe with different ohm-spec speakers"

Correct. The Bose system has an anemic low powered amp that requires low impedance speakers. The non-bose system was designed to work with 4 ohm speakers but will work with 8 ohm speakers if the efficiency is 90 db/watt or greater.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"Base radio uses 4-ohm speakers. I read at AmeriDan's site that the Bose system used 2-ohm speakers. I don't know if it because the way the extra speakers are wired in, or what... But, as long as you are replacing with the same speaker impedance as your OEM, all else of what I inquired about should be the same, just maybe with different ohm-spec speakers"

Correct. The Bose system has an anemic low powered amp that requires low impedance speakers. The non-bose system was designed to work with 4 ohm speakers but will work with 8 ohm speakers if the efficiency is 90 db/watt or greater.
TX- thanks for your input here. And for indirectly answering my question about the 3-ohm JBL speaker from my opening posting. I'll pass on that one, with the low power output of the radio and the general need to run the volume knob at the higher ranges, and the slightly mismatched impedance rating (3-ohm vs. the stock 4-ohm), I don't want to cause any harm to the amplifier section of the radio. I'll stick to 4-ohm speakers choices.

Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This morning I sent Meniscus Audio (XR put me onto them a couple years ago for speaker kits) a message asking for an automobile appropriate speaker and they put me onto this one by SB Acoustics, SB Acoustics 6.5" mid-woofer The product description includes a PDF tech sheet- tech data sheet PDF It is a 4-ohm speaker, rated for 60 watts (more closely matched to the factory radio than any other I previously posted), 90db sensitivity, and in open air has a frequency response down to 30hz, which I'm sure will be a bit higher mounted in as the door speaker. It has an aluminum cone and weighs 3.4 pounds, which is going to be easily 3-4x heavier than the factory speaker. The tricky part is that it requires a 75mm/2.95" deep hole. AmeriDan's article states the max. depth speaker should not exceed 2.51", so an extension mounting ring is needed, such as this +3/4" adapter from Amazon- Amazon.com: Mazda 2013-2015 CX-5 Rear Door Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings - SAK112_55-1 Pair: Automotive

@XtremeRevolution has a Crutchfield speaker mount ring spec'ed for his FITS system, American International NSB710 Speaker Mounting Brackets Install 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" speakers I contacted Crutchfield and they said the max. speaker mounted depth with this bracket is the 2.51" AmeriDan's article stated (oops, CF is credited in his article!). So, if I were to use the +3/4" Amazon adapter shown above, will I still be able to fit the factory door speaker cover back in place? @ameridan's articles states it should. I guess I'll have to pop apart the door panel and check. On paper, and with my scant amount of speaker knowledge, I think this SB Acoustics speaker could be a contender. Thoughts?

Steve.
 

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This morning I sent Meniscus Audio (XR put me onto them a couple years ago for speaker kits) a message asking for an automobile appropriate speaker and they put me onto this one by SB Acoustics, SB Acoustics 6.5" mid-woofer The product description includes a PDF tech sheet- tech data sheet PDF It is a 4-ohm speaker, rated for 60 watts (more closely matched to the factory radio than any other I previously posted), 90db sensitivity, and in open air has a frequency response down to 30hz, which I'm sure will be a bit higher mounted in as the door speaker. It has an aluminum cone and weighs 3.4 pounds, which is going to be easily 3-4x heavier than the factory speaker. The tricky part is that it requires a 75mm/2.95" deep hole. AmeriDan's article states the max. depth speaker should not exceed 2.51", so an extension mounting ring is needed, such as this +3/4" adapter from Amazon- Amazon.com: Mazda 2013-2015 CX-5 Rear Door Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings - SAK112_55-1 Pair: Automotive

@XtremeRevolution has a Crutchfield speaker mount ring spec'ed for his FITS system, American International NSB710 Speaker Mounting Brackets Install 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" speakers I contacted Crutchfield and they said the max. speaker mounted depth with this bracket is the 2.51" AmeriDan's article stated (oops, CF is credited in his article!). So, if I were to use the +3/4" Amazon adapter shown above, will I still be able to fit the factory door speaker cover back in place? @ameridan's articles states it should. I guess I'll have to pop apart the door panel and check. On paper, and with my scant amount of speaker knowledge, I think this SB Acoustics speaker could be a contender. Thoughts?

Steve.
Extra deep speakers with an adapter plate are no problem, there is plenty of room behind the door panel.
Here are my speakers with both the Metra speaker spacer and an MDF spacer I cut out
76230

These speakers have 90 oz magnets so I needed the extra clearance. 4 ohm and 102db sensitivity 200 watt power handling
Here they are installed with the spacers and a sound isolation ring and it all fit behind the panel.
76231


You should have no problem fitting your speakers of choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet, thank TX!

Steve.
 

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Sorry I haven't responded to this thread until now. Lots going on over here. SB Acoustics makes some fantastic speakers.

The project is still moving, just not done yet.

Keep in mind, if you run the SB Acoustics driver and end up running my design later with the miniDSP tune, you'll have to make your own tweaks to the midwoofer to match it up to the rest of the system. I still have every intention to complete that, but just when I started getting more traction, COVID-19 hit and caused me even more delays. For what it's worth, I'm still running the American Bass symphony door speakers (without any other add-on, using the stock amp) and would still recommend them. Regardless, you'll have to make a few tweaks to make that whole thing work.

Keep in mind, your actual frequency response is going to be quite limited as you're basically trying to produce sound with a speaker mounted to a leaky box. While the speaker might have a rating of 30hz, you're likely only going to get down to ~50hz out of it with any authority. You can only expect so much from a practically open air 6.5" driver, which is why I've been fighting so hard to get a sub to fit in this car without taking up the entire trunk.

To be honest, I would really plan out what you're going to do carefully and make sure you factor in a tweeter replacement as well. The stock tweeters are just as bad as the door speakers.
 

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Base radio uses 4-ohm speakers. I read at AmeriDan's site that the Bose system used 2-ohm speakers. I don't know if it because the way the extra speakers are wired in, or what... But, as long as you are replacing with the same speaker impedance as your OEM, all else of what I inquired about should be the same, just maybe with different ohm-spec speakers.

Steve.
So just get 4 ohm speakers that are better quality and that’s it? Plug and play? Only 2 door speakers?
 

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I'm not concerned with high power, high volume-level systems. (I also run the factory exhaust, no extra noise is being made.) As previous discussions have shown, the factory door speakers are underwhelming at best, and as they age, my base-level door speakers are decreasing in sound quality.

I listen mainly to jazz. Horns, piano, and drums, and voices, come through well enough from the door speakers and tweeters for my cruising enjoyment. The lower frequency rhythm section, typically a stand-up bass, at best has a minor presence from these speakers, and gets lost at speeds anything above city street speeds, regardless of volume. This also tells me the lower frequency response of these speakers is not low enough, or they are now failing to deliver lower frequencies as they age (3 years in service). A stand-up bass can have a frequency range between 31-530hz, Bass Frequency Range | Bass Gear | StudyBass I'm not interested in a sub-woofer and amplifier installation. I think the factory tweeters are fine at this point in time. I think the door speakers need to go. (I think I'm thinking a lot here, I hope I'm on the right track!)

Not wanting to overwhelm the capability of the radio's output, I think a modest power rated mid-range woofer that will respond well to the power of the radio's amp will do the trick. To that end, looking at Crutchfield's site...

Polk Audio DB6502, 4-ohm 100-watts RMS, with claimed frequency response down to 35hz, and 92db sensitivity, so it should provide the lower hertz I seek at reasonable volume settings. $179 for the set, includes 2 mid-woofer, 2 tweeters, and 2 crossovers. (But if I'm replacing just my door speakers, the tweeters and crossovers are wasted. Is it necessary to run the tweeters and crossovers if leaving the factory tweeters in service?)
Polk Audio DB 6502 DB+ Series 6-1/2" component speaker system — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield

Polk Audio DB652, 4-ohm 100-watts RMS, frequency response down to 40hz, and 92db sensitivity. $79/pair. But, it is a 2-way speaker, so now what do I do about my windshield tweeter, leave it in service or disconnect it? Polk Audio DB 652 DB+ Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield
@King of Hyrule used this set in his car. He hasn't been around in awhile, but I sent him a PM to see how they are working out, and to see what he did with his windshield tweeter. Here's his build- A guide to upgrading the Speakers?

JBL 601CF, 3-ohm, 50-watt RMS, frequency response down to 55hz, 92db @ 2.83v sensitivity, $70 (2 mid-woofer, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, again, tweeters and crossovers wouldn't be used). JBL 601CF Concert Series 6-1/2" 2-way component car speakers at Crutchfield Would a 3-ohm speaker be okay with the factory radio amp? AmeriDan's website states the factory non-bose door speakers are between 3.4-4.6 ohm.

@XtremeRevolution is using the American Bass Symphony 6.5" speaker system in his FITS-build (which ultimately includes an amp and sub-woofer speaker) 4-ohm, 125 watt RMS, frequency response down to 70hz, 91db sensitivity, $148 (2 mid-woofers, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, of which I'd only plan to use the mid-woofers) Amazon.com: American Bass SYMP65 Symphony 6.5 Component: Sports & Outdoors There is a similar 2-way speaker version of this as well- SYMPHONY 6.5

These 4 speakers have a claimed frequency response range from 35-70hz. On paper, lower is better for my wants- I want the rhythm section back on stage!

Summary- I don't seek power and high volume, I seek better low frequency response, hopefully without a sub-woofer. Now that I've typed all this out, and looked at all the linked websites, at first blush I'd say the first speaker listed, the Polk DB6502 should (as claimed!) be able to provide the low frequency rhythm sounds now being lost in the music I most enjoy listening to in my car. But if I spend the $180 for this set, will I need to use the included tweeters and crossovers, or can I simply take out the factory door speakers and replace them with the 6.5" mid-woofers of this set, and be done with it? Or if I go with the cheaper Polk DB652, with its 40hz response, will I have tweeter issues since these have a built-in tweeter and the factory tweeters will still be in service?

Thanks for your patience with me with this posting. Hopefully it brings up new areas of discussion for this topic of speakers.

Steve.
I'm not concerned with high power, high volume-level systems. (I also run the factory exhaust, no extra noise is being made.) As previous discussions have shown, the factory door speakers are underwhelming at best, and as they age, my base-level door speakers are decreasing in sound quality.

I listen mainly to jazz. Horns, piano, and drums, and voices, come through well enough from the door speakers and tweeters for my cruising enjoyment. The lower frequency rhythm section, typically a stand-up bass, at best has a minor presence from these speakers, and gets lost at speeds anything above city street speeds, regardless of volume. This also tells me the lower frequency response of these speakers is not low enough, or they are now failing to deliver lower frequencies as they age (3 years in service). A stand-up bass can have a frequency range between 31-530hz, Bass Frequency Range | Bass Gear | StudyBass I'm not interested in a sub-woofer and amplifier installation. I think the factory tweeters are fine at this point in time. I think the door speakers need to go. (I think I'm thinking a lot here, I hope I'm on the right track!)

Not wanting to overwhelm the capability of the radio's output, I think a modest power rated mid-range woofer that will respond well to the power of the radio's amp will do the trick. To that end, looking at Crutchfield's site...

Polk Audio DB6502, 4-ohm 100-watts RMS, with claimed frequency response down to 35hz, and 92db sensitivity, so it should provide the lower hertz I seek at reasonable volume settings. $179 for the set, includes 2 mid-woofer, 2 tweeters, and 2 crossovers. (But if I'm replacing just my door speakers, the tweeters and crossovers are wasted. Is it necessary to run the tweeters and crossovers if leaving the factory tweeters in service?)
Polk Audio DB 6502 DB+ Series 6-1/2" component speaker system — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield

Polk Audio DB652, 4-ohm 100-watts RMS, frequency response down to 40hz, and 92db sensitivity. $79/pair. But, it is a 2-way speaker, so now what do I do about my windshield tweeter, leave it in service or disconnect it? Polk Audio DB 652 DB+ Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield
@King of Hyrule used this set in his car. He hasn't been around in awhile, but I sent him a PM to see how they are working out, and to see what he did with his windshield tweeter. Here's his build- A guide to upgrading the Speakers?

JBL 601CF, 3-ohm, 50-watt RMS, frequency response down to 55hz, 92db @ 2.83v sensitivity, $70 (2 mid-woofer, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, again, tweeters and crossovers wouldn't be used). JBL 601CF Concert Series 6-1/2" 2-way component car speakers at Crutchfield Would a 3-ohm speaker be okay with the factory radio amp? AmeriDan's website states the factory non-bose door speakers are between 3.4-4.6 ohm.

@XtremeRevolution is using the American Bass Symphony 6.5" speaker system in his FITS-build (which ultimately includes an amp and sub-woofer speaker) 4-ohm, 125 watt RMS, frequency response down to 70hz, 91db sensitivity, $148 (2 mid-woofers, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, of which I'd only plan to use the mid-woofers) Amazon.com: American Bass SYMP65 Symphony 6.5 Component: Sports & Outdoors There is a similar 2-way speaker version of this as well- SYMPHONY 6.5

These 4 speakers have a claimed frequency response range from 35-70hz. On paper, lower is better for my wants- I want the rhythm section back on stage!

Summary- I don't seek power and high volume, I seek better low frequency response, hopefully without a sub-woofer. Now that I've typed all this out, and looked at all the linked websites, at first blush I'd say the first speaker listed, the Polk DB6502 should (as claimed!) be able to provide the low frequency rhythm sounds now being lost in the music I most enjoy listening to in my car. But if I spend the $180 for this set, will I need to use the included tweeters and crossovers, or can I simply take out the factory door speakers and replace them with the 6.5" mid-woofers of this set, and be done with it? Or if I go with the cheaper Polk DB652, with its 40hz response, will I have tweeter issues since these have a built-in tweeter and the factory tweeters will still be in service?

Thanks for your patience with me with this posting. Hopefully it brings up new areas of discussion for this topic of speakers.

Steve.
Would like to see what happens with this post from those who have already done the mod. I would like to see what the experts say and how difficult is to do as a DYI.
I installed the Polk dB 65 two way speakers; my first mod since the stock speakers were soooo bad. I had them installed at a shop only because I was nervous about removing both door panels, etc and breaking fastener and such. The job can be diy.
The Polk speakers are ok and generate loads more bass without distortion. Since they are two way, I felt there was too much high end from the tweeters ( system has now has 4 tweeters working). Still too much midrange volume so that is adjusted so what with the equalizer.
I will probably upgrade again with something like the Polk dB 6502 component speakers and a small powered sub or a signal processor which was recommended if keeping the factory system.
 
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