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Which gear, for how long

Hi folks, I trying to understand what really boost level and numbers I should have, so best way would be to ask other people))

I have currently EC intake, EC FMIC, DV+, Good-win exhaust combo, Tork Tune.
My current boost is, well I can't really describe, it can be 18- 22.5 and sometimes more on second or third gear for short time, but I guess mostly below 22,5, and falls pretty quick, but on 5-6 can goo to the ceiling and stay there pretty long time. On some slopes if car going up or down can go to high numbers, but in some cases not..
 

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Hey, Just joined the FORUM!
I'm currently using a v4 Intake, Forge BOV, Forge Actuator, Oil Catch Can, ShiftGlow Boost Guage,
16in Sparco wheels with 225/60(rear) 225/55(front) will get low pros later!
Some of that might not matter but I wanted to give all the correct MOD/Changes

Some random times I get the same thing you are getting, seems super random 15-22psi.
Then after I drive for a bit it will no longer get over 6ps, Which seems alot more normal for a normal boosted car in my eyes.

After installing the FORGE Actuator I've changed the arm to be a bit shorter and Now the same thing applies however I get a total of 8-9psi instead of the 6. Its only been a day of running that so we will see how it handles.

:D
 

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Hey, Just joined the FORUM!
I'm currently using a v4 Intake, Forge BOV, Forge Actuator, Oil Catch Can, ShiftGlow Boost Guage,
16in Sparco wheels with 225/60(rear) 225/55(front) will get low pros later!
Some of that might not matter but I wanted to give all the correct MOD/Changes

Some random times I get the same thing you are getting, seems super random 15-22psi.
Then after I drive for a bit it will no longer get over 6ps, Which seems alot more normal for a normal boosted car in my eyes.

After installing the FORGE Actuator I've changed the arm to be a bit shorter and Now the same thing applies however I get a total of 8-9psi instead of the 6. Its only been a day of running that so we will see how it handles.

:D
These cars run about 20PSI peak stock and 26-28 depending on tuning. That low level boost condition is capped at the crack pressure of your WGA and you probably have a pending code P0299 Underboost Detected and car is in limp mode. It clears when you shut the car off and then you go back to the normal 20+ peaks until you trigger the CEL again.

It's triggered by rolling the throttle too much in too high of a gear and low RPMs. Turbo can't spool up as fast as the ECU wants based on throttle position and it throws the limp code. I've done lots of testing on this since it was driving me crazy on my drives home from work. You can check it yourself by turning on cruise control. Don't need to set a speed, just light up the dial on the dash in yellow. Keep your RPMs at 3-3500 by downshift before getting on it any more than traffic cruise and the light should stay on. Coast down in 3rd until RPMs are 2Kish and then give it half throttle or more, the light will most likely go out and then you will drop down to crack pressure boost cap until restart. Some of it can be tuned out, Toby got it down to a bare minimum but I paid more attention after I figured it out. It could be a marginal solenoid.
 

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These cars run about 20PSI peak stock and 26-28 depending on tuning. That low level boost condition is capped at the crack pressure of your WGA and you probably have a pending code P0299 Underboost Detected and car is in limp mode. It clears when you shut the car off and then you go back to the normal 20+ peaks until you trigger the CEL again.

It's triggered by rolling the throttle too much in too high of a gear and low RPMs. Turbo can't spool up as fast as the ECU wants based on throttle position and it throws the limp code. I've done lots of testing on this since it was driving me crazy on my drives home from work. You can check it yourself by turning on cruise control. Don't need to set a speed, just light up the dial on the dash in yellow. Keep your RPMs at 3-3500 by downshift before getting on it any more than traffic cruise and the light should stay on. Coast down in 3rd until RPMs are 2Kish and then give it half throttle or more, the light will most likely go out and then you will drop down to crack pressure boost cap until restart. Some of it can be tuned out, Toby got it down to a bare minimum but I paid more attention after I figured it out. It could be a marginal solenoid.
Omg thanks man, been really testing stuff out and barely just started modding things and swapping stuff out. It seems so high to me for the stock boost to be around 20psi seems very high to me.
I'll change a few things and see if I can get it out of that mode then if it's being triggered. I normally down shift before hitting the gas, would that still cause it to go limp?
 

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Omg thanks man, been really testing stuff out and barely just started modding things and swapping stuff out. It seems so high to me for the stock boost to be around 20psi seems very high to me.
I'll change a few things and see if I can get it out of that mode then if it's being triggered. I normally down shift before hitting the gas, would that still cause it to go limp?
Stock boost is not 26-28. Like @Calehedron said it's 20-21 PSI. The ECU understands how much boost to apply in a given situation. The boost is going to taper as the RPMs build. 15-21 is quite normal based on the RPMs.

Why did you put a Forge actuator on and start messing with the crack pressure? Unless your tune is expecting that it's going to cause problems. Both Calehedron and I run Forge actuators also but we carefully set the crack pressure based on what our tuners wanted and programmed for. Is there more to this story I'm missing? Like Calehedron said, if you are only getting 6-8 PSI your car is limp mode and you have a problem. I'd take the Forge actuator off and put the stock one back on.
 

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So this happened before as well most likely from the check engine light. It makes sense to me now that it would go into limp mode.
I just wanted an overall better part so I upgraded the actuator, first I didn't get it to the right spot and next morning I changed it really fast before work so now it's at what it is now.
Check engine light I had seems to have been for something with the EVAP system hose but I'm not 100% sure.

If I bypassed the solenoid that's controlled electronically would that still cause it to go into limp?
 

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The ECU controls boost using 3D closed loop boost control. You can not take the ECU out of the equation and expect it to be happy, your ECU will limit boost by varying Multi-Air and by using Throttle body. At the end of the day, the car is controlling boost to achieve a torque target.

I suggest that you scan your CEL. What spring are you using in the Forge actuator?
 

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I'll fix my check engine light first, and see where that takes me. But the spring is yellow, only came with one spring as I thought it would come with a few.
 

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The P0299 that triggers with this doesn't light up a dash indicator because it sets as pending not permanent and limps. That's why I used the Cruise Control light. It shuts down on any limp mode condition. If you have a scanner plugged in, you can pull it up while in the limp mode and verify.
 

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Sweet so I'll check to make sure it's that code. But Why would it go into limp even before the swap of the actuator?

I currently have a light on now, for something but not sure what it is for. You said that a light could cause a limp mode as well!
 

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I'll fix my check engine light first, and see where that takes me. But the spring is yellow, only came with one spring as I thought it would come with a few.
Forge changed stiffness on their springs. If you have one of the later batches, and you probably do, the yellow spring is too stiff for a stock tune. Even in my tuned car I am using the green spring. There is a thread here that will show you how to check and properly adjust the crack pressure, which is 6 PSI for a stock car. Or is it 8 @Calehedron? I can’t remember now.
 

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I do remember someone saying 6psi in a review. Ill go change it and see what happens.
To my understanding is that it wouldn't matter on the spring just how you adjust the arm? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Chainring and Calehedron: Exactly my experience with EC P2, Forge WGA, BOV, intake and exhaust mods. If I let the revs drop too low and don't downshift it will go into limp mode if I roll into the throttle, boost stays below 10psi. Shut off and restart resets everything back to normal with boost up to 21PSI. I learned not to "lug it", and to keep RPMs in the low to mid 3Ks. I would not have been able to figure this out until I installed a boost gauge. Normal boost level, as you said, is between 15 and 21PSI depending on conditions.

Thank you for your insight, and allaying my fears. Cheers.
 

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I do remember someone saying 6psi in a review. Ill go change it and see what happens.
To my understanding is that it wouldn't matter on the spring just how you adjust the arm? Correct me if I'm wrong.
It has everything to do with the spring.The spring determines the activation pressure. You need to search the forum, there is an extensive thread on this subject. The arm adjustment, if memory serves, sets the initial point of activation.

I'm sure others will chime in to guide you along.
 

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Sweet so I'll check to make sure it's that code. But Why would it go into limp even before the swap of the actuator?

I currently have a light on now, for something but not sure what it is for. You said that a light could cause a limp mode as well!
The P0299 is a known issue across the engine platform. My 500A did the same thing but I hadn't figured it out at that point. Its part tuning, part marginal solenoids and there was a bad batch or two out there. Of course there are more reasons for other codes that could also trigger a limp mode but this is one of the most common that usually don't throw a permanent, but pending code.
 

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Dang I've watched a few videos about it and they all said to just adjust the arm and it will be fine.

I'll order some springs as I few people I watched all said they had the green spring.
 

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I do remember someone saying 6psi in a review. Ill go change it and see what happens.
To my understanding is that it wouldn't matter on the spring just how you adjust the arm? Correct me if I'm wrong.
If the spring is too stiff you won’t be able to set the pressure low enough. I could not set the yellow spring that shipped with my WGA below 13 psi. I currently have the green spring set at its max of 11 PSI. It only works well if I’m running a tune. If I go back to the stock tune I can see it dumping boost under load. If I were going to run just the stock tune I would not change the stock WGA.
 

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If the spring is too stiff you won’t be able to set the pressure low enough. I could not set the yellow spring that shipped with my WGA below 13 psi. I currently have the green spring set at its max of 11 PSI. It only works well if I’m running a tune. If I go back to the stock tune I can see it dumping boost under load. If I were going to run just the stock tune I would not change the stock WGA.

Wow, I did want to tune later so that's one reason I got my WGA but I was hoping to bypass the solenoid with a throttle body spacer and connect that to the BOV.
Might not actually work but just trying to learn more about the possibilities.
 

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Quick Crack Pressure setting lesson:

1. Get yourself a hand pump used for checking cooling system pressure. Easy to pump and get to an exact pressure from 0-30PSI.
2. Pull the hose off the Forge WGA and connect the pump to WGA inlet.
3. Remove the arm from the WG pin. Look to the right of the WG Arm and make sure the turbo to cat band clamp bolt is not blocking the arms full travel path!
4. Pump to 6-7PSI if on stock tune or whatever your tuner has set up for.
5. Adjust Forge arm until it just barely slides on with the pin pushed all the way closed/forward of car.
6. Release pump pressure. Forge arm should retract a bit and be hard to move on the pin.
7. Pump back to same pressure as before and the arm should just start to be loose on the pin and pushing it back.
8. Put the E-Clip back on.
9. Crack pressure is now set to what you had on the dial. It's normally somewhere near 50% of average boost level.
10. Clear ECU by pulling negative lead on battery for 30 mins.
11. Drive moderately for a while and let it relearn.
 

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Here's the thread that covers the Forge wastegate.
 
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