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Wow, I did want to tune later so that's one reason I got my WGA but I was hoping to bypass the solenoid with a throttle body spacer and connect that to the BOV.
Might not actually work but just trying to learn more about the possibilities.
I'm always eager to see someone push the limits and try new things. The ECU in this car is very intrusive and probably won't like that attempt. It possibly could be done through tuning but I don't think Tork or EC have tried that yet. My advice would be to go easy so as not to damage your engine. If you already have it bypassed that is probably the reason the engine is in limp mode now.
 

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I'm always eager to see someone push the limits and try new things. The ECU in this car is very intrusive and probably won't like that attempt. It possibly could be done through tuning but I don't think Tork or EC have tried that yet. My advice would be to go easy so as not to damage your engine. If you already have it bypassed that is probably the reason the engine is in limp mode now.

Oh for sure, I'll give it a try this weekend and see what I can do. It's currently not bypassed but will try it.
 

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Oh for sure, I'll give it a try this weekend and see what I can do. It's currently not bypassed but will try it.
What are you trying to accomplish with that? The solenoid modulates pressure to the WGA to control the opening of the wastegate. Remove the solenoid and your max boost will be the pressure set by the spring. It will have no power and you will get an underboost code.
 

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What are you trying to accomplish with that? The solenoid modulates pressure to the WGA to control the opening of the wastegate. Remove the solenoid and your max boost will be the pressure set by the spring. It will have no power and you will get an underboost code.

Not entirely sure want some clean up of the bay. But also just want to know what I can and can't do.
 

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What are you trying to accomplish with that? The solenoid modulates pressure to the WGA to control the opening of the wastegate. Remove the solenoid and your max boost will be the pressure set by the spring. It will have no power and you will get an underboost code.
Good point. He'd need to put in the red spring to get close to stock boost levels. But then he'd lose the additional safety valve of the solenoid.
 
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Good point. He'd need to put in the red spring to get close to stock boost levels. But then he'd lose the additional safety valve of the solenoid.
And it shouldn’t be running peak boost at redline.
 
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Why is that?
Oh man. That's a long technical discussion that someone like @Greg could explain better than I. When you are pushing max boost at that many RPMs things are violent and very hot inside the engine. The way the engine releases some of that violence and heat is by opening up the wastegate and letting boost pressure out. Boost is air being forced into the combustion chamber under pressure. The higher the pressure, the more heat generated. Too much heat can cause pre-detonation which can lead to engine failure. That's probably an overly simple explanation. If you bypass the solenoid you might gain more control over boost pressure but you will lose the ECU safeguards in place when it starts detecting things are dangerous. All you will have is the spring in the wastegate to save you. And it won't know when things are going bad.
 

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And it won't know when things are going bad.
Going the route you are hypothesizing would have much of the same effect of my warning in the crack instructions about the waste gate arm being blocked and not being able to let off a boost rush fast enough and creating a spike. Say a spike of close to 40PSI and sustained 36PSI long enough to notice and realize the alarm has been on tooooooo long and let off the throttle. Then it looks like this...

74805
 

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Going the route you are hypothesizing would have much of the same effect of my warning in the crack instructions about the waste gate arm being blocked and not being able to let off a boost rush fast enough and creating a spike. Say a spike of close to 40PSI and sustained 36PSI long enough to notice and realize the alarm has been on tooooooo long and let off the throttle. Then it looks like this...

View attachment 74805
Your visual representation just topped my representation from the cat thread.
 

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Oh man. That's a long technical discussion that someone like @Greg could explain better than I. When you are pushing max boost at that many RPMs things are violent and very hot inside the engine. The way the engine releases some of that violence and heat is by opening up the wastegate and letting boost pressure out. Boost is air being forced into the combustion chamber under pressure. The higher the pressure, the more heat generated. Too much heat can cause pre-detonation which can lead to engine failure. That's probably an overly simple explanation. If you bypass the solenoid you might gain more control over boost pressure but you will lose the ECU safeguards in place when it starts detecting things are dangerous. All you will have is the spring in the wastegate to save you. And it won't know when things are going bad.

Thank you guys for all the info I appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Since thread is bit more active, interested to ask have you folks had similar problems and what was the reason/solution

I recently revert V4 intake toward V1, and it actually level up peak pressure above 21s, first time in long time. So there for sure was some problem with v4 T connector. But what is weird, even maximum boost rises and holds it pretty well, I have really strange behavior around 10 psi, medium throttle pressure, it holds it fine, I can modulate between 5 - 10 with the throttle, but sometimes just strange drops from 10 to 5 in a moment...
 

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I am going to guess stock waste gate? That is your dropping down to 5PSI when the car doesn't feel it needs 10PSI anymore, it drops down to the crack pressure of the WGA.

As for boost pressure going up with a smaller volume intake, its simple math. For any given volume of air, the pressure increases as the flow path gets smaller. Same can be said for warm and cold days. Warm days will need more boost pressure to compress the same volume of air than on a cold day with the air more dense to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I am going to guess stock waste gate? That is your dropping down to 5PSI when the car doesn't feel it needs 10PSI anymore, it drops down to the crack pressure of the WGA.

As for boost pressure going up with a smaller volume intake, its simple math. For any given volume of air, the pressure increases as the flow path gets smaller. Same can be said for warm and cold days. Warm days will need more boost pressure to compress the same volume of air than on a cold day with the air more dense to begin with.
Yes, you right, stock waste gate. Probably worth to upgrade it)) Have anyway car already quite modified to worry about it))
 

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Since thread is bit more active, interested to ask have you folks had similar problems and what was the reason/solution

I recently revert V4 intake toward V1, and it actually level up peak pressure above 21s, first time in long time. So there for sure was some problem with v4 T connector. But what is weird, even maximum boost rises and holds it pretty well, I have really strange behavior around 10 psi, medium throttle pressure, it holds it fine, I can modulate between 5 - 10 with the throttle, but sometimes just strange drops from 10 to 5 in a moment...
I might not be understanding something you are trying to say, but it sounds to me like your car is behaving exactly how it is supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well, it was first time I had boost acting that way))) I reset by unplugging battery, it helped
 

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Even on EC stage 1 I hit 25 psi in the summer. Seems like the hotter it gets the more boost the car runs. Must be to compensate for power loss but super strange that car doesn’t perform any better in cold turbo weather.
 
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