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Discussion Starter #1
Driving in to work, today, the CEL came on.

I was expecting, with this advanced 'infotainment' system, that it would actually tell us something useful beyond 'hey, your check engine light is on, you should get that checked immediately'.

Is the only way to get the codes through the OBDII port?
 

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I believe so, I snagged one overnight off Amazon for ~$35 after mine came on post GWR exhaust/GFB diverter valve install. Hopefully it's nothing big!
 

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Interested to hear what it is. Typically you can just use the cheaper ones that will give you the code alone and research the code.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
OEM Code: P1CEA

Looks like Boost side purge performance something.

So, this weekend I added a V4 intake and changed the oil. It's possible I may have disturbed something, or there's one of the pipes in the intake from the spaghetti monster engine bay we have that is dislodged.

Unless someone has any other ideas?

EDIT: oh, also changed out the passenger side intercooler connection box (that has the annoying outlet the V4 intake connects to in the bottom). Everything appears to be running fine, but on let off the boost 'purge' does appear to be slightly louder, but that may be my imagination.
 

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I would double check all your hose routing and connections around and to the intake. It sounds like something isn't quite sealed or a line may be routed the wrong direction of air flow.

Afterward, clear the code and see if it comes back.
 

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OEM Code: P1CEA
I've been playing with the air box and this code refers to a problem with the evaporative system. The factory air box uses a bleed off of the cold side intercooler pipe to create a vacuum to pull the evaporative gases into the air box. If that system has been disabled or modified, the ECU senses that the purge valve is not working correctly and sets this code.

Hope this helps.
 

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I have gotten this code 3 times now, even though EC says that the V4 intake will not cause this code. The last 2 times it happened my scanner said I was running 71 mph and 91% throttle. I am getting used to just clearing the code and forgetting about it, but it's still a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did a quick check of the connections and routing. Evetthing appears as it should. My only concern is the connection to the intake on the V4 closest to the turbo. That was a minor lay tricky connection to get in and didn't appear to be a perfect alignment. In addition, there was a clamp ring on the original that needed cutting off, yet no clamp required, here. It does look like the hose splits off to a switch/valve of some kind.

I've reset the code (I have a Bosch Bluetooth obd2 unit) and will also recheck connections with a cold engine - it gets very, very, hot in this engine bay. [which reminds me, I should get a non contact temperature gun out of curiosity...]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rechecked connections, all seem ok. Added a worm drive clamp to the 'big' connection to the V4 intake closest to the turbo. Got the code within about 30 miles. Thinking I might take the V4 off, the original intake back on and see if I've got the V4 installation messed up (seems hard to do) or if there's another issue that I'm dealing with (did replace an intercooler junction box, but if that was broken, or pipes not fitted, I'd likely have other issues).
 

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Can you clear the CEL by unhooking..

I use a Dyno-Scan which costs a bit more, but does a lot more. It's $119.99. http://www.auterraweb.com/dyforwiusb.html
One of the battery cables. I don't have the money for one of those expensive Dyno-Scan tools.

Is it the positive or the negative terminal you unhook?? How long do you leave it off.

Will it wipe out my radio stations or effect any other electric components.

Thanks. :)
 

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I have been looking at this, since a few people have had this code. It seems to be related to the connection from the boost pipe. We have the better revised connectors which should be going out next week. They are really nice and click into the factory hoses perfectly.

Greg
 

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As for clearing codes, you don't need expensive software. The "Torque" app for an Android phone is currently under 5 bucks. DashCommand is another good option. There are probably free ones, but those are the two I like. You will need a bluetooth adapter, but those are dirt cheap.

These apps do a lot more than clear codes, and you will find them very useful. They can monitor just about any sensor on the car and let you see the data in real time, or log it for later review.

Greg
 

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Thanks

;)
As for clearing codes, you don't need expensive software. The "Torque" app for an Android phone is currently under 5 bucks. DashCommand is another good option. There are probably free ones, but those are the two I like. You will need a bluetooth adapter, but those are dirt cheap.

These apps do a lot more than clear codes, and you will find them very useful. They can monitor just about any sensor on the car and let you see the data in real time, or log it for later review.

Greg
Thanks
 

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add me to the list of p1cea codes after the v4 install. it's been a couple weeks and just popped the code driving normal. i am pretty sure i have the latest and greatest revised connectors but i'm still getting the code. i'll go check connections and see what i find....
 

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Is this a problem related? Couldn't get all the way on at the intake without lifting over or cutting. But the clamp should still be on the housing of the turbo inlet solid....or is the black evidence of oil leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looks like oil...I can't imagine it seeping around that hose connection, though.

I've taken my V4 off for about 700 miles, now, and no check engine light. I've put it back on, but have tried to make sure the hose connection to the intercooler pipe is not twisted or stressed. I've also had an intermittent hesitation between 3 and 4k rpm, which appears to have gone after disconnecting and reconnecting the diverter valve. We shall see. My light has come on through 'normal' driving - 75-80 cruising on the interstate.

I've been trying to find out exactly the sequence of valves, timing, etc. which causes this light. It's possible that the free flowing intake pushes some timing just over a limit, whereas with the stock system it's just below the limit. I don't even know the purpose of the intercooler connection...seems strange to takeoff from there into the intake.
 

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Is this a problem related? Couldn't get all the way on at the intake without lifting over or cutting. But the clamp should still be on the housing of the turbo inlet solid....or is the black evidence of oil leak?
As an observation: You should remove that split pin which is not allowing the intake hose to fully seat on the turbo inlet, and then move the clamp closer to the turbo, which ought to stop that oil seepage.
 
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