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I just installed the system one with the roadster sport cross pipe. First, I’d like to sincerely thank the folks in this group for their invaluable advice and insights regarding the installation. Also, kudos to GWR for the high quality product and service. I couldn’t be happier with this setup.
Installation took about two hours, plus two more hours to let the PBBlaster soak in. I followed NGENs video, with special care taken with the down pipe studs. My car has 67000 smiles on it, and I was really worried that I’d snap a stud. After soaking, I used a torque wrench to apply progressively greater off torque to the nuts, holding each for thirty seconds or so...and was able to break both free without issue. I also made sure to get the cross pipe correctly oriented and tightened to the down pipe prior to tightening the bracket near the mid pipe. The rest was a piece of cake. Both the sound and performance increase were better than expected, and I am one delighted customer. I just can’t find enough reasons to drive this car 🤪
81154
81155
 

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Planning to do mine soon as well.
Looking to order mine soon as well. Reverted to stock while I wait. Way too docile, can't wait to get something more aggressive on there again. Too darn cold to do garage work. right now.
 
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I just installed the system one with the roadster sport cross pipe. First, I’d like to sincerely thank the folks in this group for their invaluable advice and insights regarding the installation. Also, kudos to GWR for the high quality product and service. I couldn’t be happier with this setup.
Installation took about two hours, plus two more hours to let the PBBlaster soak in. I followed NGENs video, with special care taken with the down pipe studs. My car has 67000 smiles on it, and I was really worried that I’d snap a stud. After soaking, I used a torque wrench to apply progressively greater off torque to the nuts, holding each for thirty seconds or so...and was able to break both free without issue. I also made sure to get the cross pipe correctly oriented and tightened to the down pipe prior to tightening the bracket near the mid pipe. The rest was a piece of cake. Both the sound and performance increase were better than expected, and I am one delighted customer. I just can’t find enough reasons to drive this car 🤪 View attachment 81154 View attachment 81155
Is that the 2.5" cross pipe? Thinking of going with the system one 2.25 on my manual car as I don't want to wrap. Was just going to put high temp Gold reflective film or Coolltape recommended by GWR in the tunnel .

I like your approach with the studs. I've been treating the studs with Freeze off penetrant over last few weeks. Still undecided if I do it myself or have a pro do it. In your view, doable on jackstands/ramps?
 

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Is that the 2.5" cross pipe? Thinking of going with the system one 2.25 on my manual car as I don't want to wrap. Was just going to put high temp Gold reflective film or Coolltape recommended by GWR in the tunnel .

I like your approach with the studs. I've been treating the studs with Freeze off penetrant over last few weeks. Still undecided if I do it myself or have a pro do it. In your view, doable on jackstands/ramps?
Yes, that's the 2.5" pipe. I also used a "thicker than stock" gasket I bought on Amazon per the recommendation of the group. I believe it was a "Vibrant" brand 2.5", 2 hole exhaust gasket. The stock gasket is copper, and only about 0.010" thick. I think you should take the time, and the $15 to wrap whatever pipe you go with...can't hurt.

I should have mentioned some light taps with a hammer/socket/extension on the nuts...they have flanges, so the impact will help to break up any corrosion in the threads...frankly, I was pleasantly surprised when they broke loose and spun off easily!

I have a QuickJack that lifts the car a good 12-16 inches. I had plenty of room (and I'm 62, so crawling around on the ground isn't as easy as it used to be) and was able to complete the job easily. Good jack-stands should be fine. Use the cardboard box the exhaust came in as a creeper...it's easy to slide around on the cardboard.

Do it yourself!. It's not a hard job, but it does require some decision making when you're bolting things together to make sure you have good clearance under the oil pan and near the driveshaft. Someone getting paid might not be as careful as you!
 

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I think you should take the time, and the $15 to wrap whatever pipe you go with...can't hurt.
A word of caution. I recently installed the RoadsterSport cross and mid pipe on my Lusso with AT. Wrapped the cross pipe in heat wrap, which added enough to the overall diameter that it did not clear the transmission. Tape might do better in that location, and maybe the SystemOne cross pipe has larger clearance. Just be aware that - while heat tape/wrap for the cross pipe is advisable, it can impact clearance negatively. If not sure, inquire with @Good-Win Racing, they are super-responsive and will help you get sorted.

Cheers, SL
 

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Yes, this is correct. When I first bolted up the cross pipe to the down pipe, it was making contact with the oil pan. I had to loosen the bolts holding the bracket to the pan, and then the cross-pipe could be moved so there was no contact. Good point, SL
 

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...and another thing I should mention;

The studs on the cross-pipe/mid-pipe connection have to be removed from the stock cross-pipe and installed on the new one. They are held in with Loctite 620 (or equivalent). (I worked for Loctite for 20 years as an Application Engineer, so I know). Without heat, they will be near impossible to remove. Heat the nut for a few minutes with a small butane or propane torch and they will come out fairly easily...

If you want to reinstall with a thread-locker, Loctite 262, 272 or 620 (or equivalent) will all work fine.
 
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When I do mu System One and cross-pipe, I am going to get new stainless flange nuts rather then recycle the rusted nuts on the cross pipe to down-pipe connection. Does anyone know size/thread? If not no problem, I'll ask GWR when ordering the system. Also anyone see any reason to not use a dab of anti-seize compound across all the hardware in the assambly?
 

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I just installed the system one with the roadster sport cross pipe. First, I’d like to sincerely thank the folks in this group for their invaluable advice and insights regarding the installation. Also, kudos to GWR for the high quality product and service. I couldn’t be happier with this setup.
Installation took about two hours, plus two more hours to let the PBBlaster soak in. I followed NGENs video, with special care taken with the down pipe studs. My car has 67000 smiles on it, and I was really worried that I’d snap a stud. After soaking, I used a torque wrench to apply progressively greater off torque to the nuts, holding each for thirty seconds or so...and was able to break both free without issue. I also made sure to get the cross pipe correctly oriented and tightened to the down pipe prior to tightening the bracket near the mid pipe. The rest was a piece of cake. Both the sound and performance increase were better than expected, and I am one delighted customer. I just can’t find enough reasons to drive this car 🤪 View attachment 81154 View attachment 81155
Would it be possible to post some exterior pics? I have a 2020 Mare Blue Lusso w/saddle interior and thinking of some cosmetic enhancements. The first that comes to mind is the Mopar white racing stripe but I'd love to see yours. Mare Blue seems to be a rare beast. Sweeney Fiat has 65 new Spiders and not 1 M-B.
 

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...and another thing I should mention;

The studs on the cross-pipe/mid-pipe connection have to be removed from the stock cross-pipe and installed on the new one. They are held in with Loctite 620 (or equivalent). (I worked for Loctite for 20 years as an Application Engineer, so I know). Without heat, they will be near impossible to remove. Heat the nut for a few minutes with a small butane or propane torch and they will come out fairly easily...

If you want to reinstall with a thread-locker, Loctite 262, 272 or 620 (or equivalent) will all work fine.
I ordered my System One from GWR last week, expecting to arrive soon. Going to attempt DIY Install. Car is already on jackstands, and I have been soaking the nuts/studs. Two questions.

1. Before moving to heat, I think I have a rotary impact/hammer drill that has an impact only option. Anyone see any issue in using this before applying any manual rotary torque? I am figuring it may break the rust bond and allow the penetrant to soak in better. I'd probably do this before applying heat and cold as concerned that will make stud brittle.

2. Going to run to Lowes to get hardware. If studs don't snap going to going to replace the nuts. I assume flange nuts would be best. Anyone know of best material (Stainless) and nut size/thread/pitch? Also I assume no washers should be used.

Think I am going to use the progressive torque wrench technique someone else on here suggested.
 

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I ordered my System One from GWR last week, expecting to arrive soon. Going to attempt DIY Install. Car is already on jackstands, and I have been soaking the nuts/studs. Two questions.

1. Before moving to heat, I think I have a rotary impact/hammer drill that has an impact only option. Anyone see any issue in using this before applying any manual rotary torque? I am figuring it may break the rust bond and allow the penetrant to soak in better. I'd probably do this before applying heat and cold as concerned that will make stud brittle.

2. Going to run to Lowes to get hardware. If studs don't snap going to going to replace the nuts. I assume flange nuts would be best. Anyone know of best material (Stainless) and nut size/thread/pitch? Also I assume no washers should be used.

Think I am going to use the progressive torque wrench technique someone else on here suggested.
All good points. I'm not a fastening engineer - just a lowly aerospace. Are there compounds to coat the threads to keep corrosion at bay without affecting the torque retention ability through hot cold cycles? Li or Copper grease?
 

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All good points. I'm not a fastening engineer - just a lowly aerospace. Are there compounds to coat the threads to keep corrosion at bay without affecting the torque retention ability through hot cold cycles? Li or Copper grease?
I was planning on applying anti-sieze anyway, but still struggling to understand nut size. Goodwin indicated M8, but was unable to advise if it was 1.25 or 1.5 pitch. I guess Ill have to wait till I get them off (Hopefully).
 

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Have just fitted one. There was a clearance issue where the System 1 crosspipe bolts to the flange of the Cat. The crosspipe welds interfere with the nuts seating correctly.
I wasn't happy with the interference so made some small spacers. To torque the nuts appropriately without the spacers would (imo) place significant strain on the studs...and not in a good way.
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Have just fitted one. There was a clearance issue where the System 1 crosspipe bolts to the flange of the Cat. The crosspipe welds interfere with the nuts seating correctly.
I wasn't happy with the interference so made some small spacers. To torque the nuts appropriately without the spacers would (imo) place significant strain on the studs...and not in a good way. View attachment 81628
I would think the proper torque on the nuts would not have have any effect on the studs (IMHO). The load from the nuts however, would be seen as a bearing load thru the spacers onto the flange. If the area of the spacers on the flange is smaller than the proper nut/washer combination then the load on the flange is greater. This would be a stress concentration. Only the System One designer, or stress engineer, that has the material data of these components would be able to confirm if this stress issue is a problem in regards to a stress crack in the flange. My sense is that this should not be an issue. If super worried, you could have a two pieces of spacers fabricated that would be narrow enough to stay out of the weld radius but be curved for a couple of inches and thereby increasing that bearing surface area. Probably overkill. My 2 cents worth. Good luck.
 

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I would think the proper torque on the nuts would not have have any effect on the studs (IMHO). The load from the nuts however, would be seen as a bearing load thru the spacers onto the flange. If the area of the spacers on the flange is smaller than the proper nut/washer combination then the load on the flange is greater. This would be a stress concentration. Only the System One designer, or stress engineer, that has the material data of these components would be able to confirm if this stress issue is a problem in regards to a stress crack in the flange. My sense is that this should not be an issue. If super worried, you could have a two pieces of spacers fabricated that would be narrow enough to stay out of the weld radius but be curved for a couple of inches and thereby increasing that bearing surface area. Probably overkill. My 2 cents worth. Good luck.
JohnyMac, Re-reading your original post, I do agree that putting proper torque on the nuts that are interfering with the weld radius would be adding a bending component to the tension on the stud. You're right, not a good thing for the stud. Also that would place a stress concentration into the weld zone - again ungood. Your spacer, if avoiding the weld radius, should be adequate. I'd pass on your experience to Sys 1 if it was me.
 

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I'm an old guy (67...) and I put in the resonator. But for me, the perfect sound!
 

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Got under the car today and loosened the all the exhaust bolts including the cross-pipe bolts/studs. After several soakings with CRC Freeze-off CRC Freeze-Off super penetrant (autozone.com) and several ginger attempts with a touque wrench they came off with no issues. I reinstalled, now awaiting delivery of the GWR System One Exhaust.
I was planning on applying anti-sieze anyway, but still struggling to understand nut size. Goodwin indicated M8, but was unable to advise if it was 1.25 or 1.5 pitch. I guess Ill have to wait till I get them off (Hopefully).
 
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