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Thermostat Removal & Instalation

4535 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  GuidoVeloce
Not sure if this belongs here as this is my first post but I hope this will help someone.

I am level 3 tech at a dealership in VA. I was tasked with a thermostat replacement today on a 124. I was taken back at the complexity of the job and was looking to the internet for a possible shortcut to beat flat rate times. After searching I came up empty handed and did not even see a R&R procedure for the average person. I hope this helps someone.

This was not an easy job as I did evac the A/C system to remove the compressor. Book time was 5.2 hours not including Diag, Fill & Bleed, and Road Test. Im sure you could become proficient but it took every bit of 5.2 as I followed the procedure to a T to understand the process.

The repair procedure directly from Mopar is as follows:

07 - Cooling / Engine / THERMOSTAT / Removal and Installation

  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting/Standard Procedure) .
  3. Remove the front belly pan (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN/Removal and Installation) .
  4. Drain the cooling system (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Standard Procedure) .
  5. Remove the oil vapor separator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/SEPARATOR, Oil/Removal and Installation) .
  6. Remove the air cleaner body (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner/Removal and Installation) .
  7. Remove the PCM mounting bracket.
  8. Remove the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/COMPRESSOR, A/C/Removal and Installation) .
  9. Remove the GENERATOR(Refer to 08 - Electrical/Charging/GENERATOR/Removal and Installation) .
  10. Remove the A/C compressor mounting bracket.
  11. Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/TENSIONER, Belt/Removal and Installation) .
  12. Remove the vacuum pipe between heat exchanger outlet pipe and air filter.
  13. Remove the engine oil recovery pipe (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/SEPARATOR, Oil/Removal and Installation) .
  14. Remove the throttle body (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Injection/THROTTLE BODY/Removal and Installation) .
  15. Remove the pipe from solenoid valve to airbox (Refer to 25 - Emissions Control/Evaporative Emissions/SOLENOID, Evaporative Emissions Purge/Removal and Installation) .
  16. Remove the cowl panel cover (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/COVER, Cowl Panel/Removal and Installation) .
  17. Remove the vacuum pump (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/PUMP, Vacuum/Removal and Installation) .

  18. Disconnect the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor wire harness connector (1).
  19. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wire harness connector (2).

  20. Remove the coolant outlet duplex pipe screw (1) from cylinder head.
  21. Remove the coolant outlet duplex pipe nut (2) from intake chamber.

  22. Remove the coolant outlet duplex pipe screw (1) from intake chamber.
  23. Release the retaining clips (2) of the engine compartment wiring to coolant outlet duplex pipe from thermostat.

  24. Remove the spring clamp and the hose (1) from the thermostat.
  25. Remove the nut (2a) and rigid pipe (2b) from thermostat.

  26. 1. Remove the bolt (1) and coolant tube from the thermostat.

  27. Remove the bolts (1a), thermostat (1b), and the seal (1c)
Install is the opposite of removal, plus recharge of the A/C system, and coolant fill/bleed.

I would recommend torturing your local technician before undertaking this repair haha.
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Wow, that seems like quite a job. Is it really necessary to remove the AC pump to replace the thermostat?

I may have found enough space to pry it back with the lines still connected but probably would have been a fight, the biggest part of that was being able to access and remove the mounting bracket for the compressor. The amount of room created by having it removed definitely helped. Unfortunately the average person doesn't have a YF1234 machine but in a shop environment you can start the evac while working to remove other items to reduce the time.
Haha It sucked, we haven't had to many come through the shop so unfortunately I haven't been able to experiment. There's almost always cheat for a job to circumvent the "official" procedure. On some dodge dakota air bag recalls call for a complete dash removal at 1.9 hours, however if you cut two small holes behind the glove box you can access and remove the passenger air bag in ten minutes.
@MoparTech1990 thanks for reaching out to us mere enthusiast-mortals. Unfortunately those links to FCA Library Services won't work (for me anyway) unless we have a subscription I guess...
Yes, unfortunately you dealership access to see every link with the individual process for each part but I thought it might give a general view of what the job entailed.

And it looks like some of the images may not have carried over as well.
I see the point, although I hope no one will be making holes in the dashboards of our beloved Spiders!
Haha to be determined. In the dakotas case the hole we create is in a small sliver of plastic that you can only get access too by removing the glove box. The hole give you access to one 10mm nut, the only nut that warrants removing the dash.

It was an after thought by the engineers and after the Takata recall most of our airbags are easily accessible.

But its not always about being faster, in my opinion there's alot less things to go wrong, broken clips/connectors, a new squeak from the dash after being removed, all issues that dissatisfie a customer after a simple repair.

We would never do anything to damage the structural integrity or cosmetically damage a vehicle as it always comes back to bite.
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