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Discussion Starter #21
Agreed. The highest recorded level I saw was 25psi, but that was on the 45psi gauge that's tapped directly, not running off the sensor.
 

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This can destroy a perfectly good engine guys. Our pistons, rods, and valves all have limits. We should all be checking for this and running boost gauges IMHO.
Anyone removing the V band clamp should keep this in mind when reinstalling.
 
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Even my 1982 Spider Turbo had a factory installed boost guage between the tach and speedo.
 

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Even my 1982 Spider Turbo had a factory installed boost guage between the tach and speedo.
The downside of using a dash originally designed for a NA car.
 

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Even my 1982 Spider Turbo had a factory installed boost guage between the tach and speedo.
I believe they put the boost guage in where the clock was in the non-turbo cars.
 

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What exactly should we keep an eye out for with the Boost Gauge? Setting the psi limit alarm at 25psi for example to check for overboost?
 

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What exactly should we keep an eye out for with the Boost Gauge? Setting the psi limit alarm at 25psi for example to check for overboost?
Mini I put the PSI limit alarm to 26psi, You really want to know the truth, at the beginning I was trying to break the sound barrier to see the psi limit, I would touch a 30psi in a fraction of a second, reason I noticed that cause the psi the gauge told me the max. Oh ya, the Abarth beast was reving so much I didn't hear the warning sound that it passed the 26psi. Not only me but TREETOPFLYER, had a different gauge and same issue.

Today, well I don't even notice that I have a boost gauge. Nice to have to verify some reading at certain rpm, But I am enjoying to drive the Beast then looking stare at the boost gauge.
Mira! :LOL:?disfruta la conducción
 
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Mini I put the PSI limit alarm to 26psi, You really want to know the truth, at the beginning I was trying to break the sound barrier to see the psi limit, I would touch a 30psi in a fraction of a second, reason I noticed that cause the psi the gauge told me the max. Oh ya, the Abarth beast was reving so much I didn't hear the warning sound that it passed the 26psi. Not only me but TREETOPFLYER, had a different gauge and same issue.

Today, well I don't even notice that I have a boost gauge. Nice to have to verify some reading at certain rpm, But I am enjoying to drive the Beast then looking stare at the boost gauge.
Mira! :LOL:?disfruta la conducción
Enjoy conduction? I’m not a circuit you know! Maybe you meant disfruta la corrida (enjoy the ride?)

I’ve only once gone above 25psi, definitely heard the boost gauge warning.
 

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I had an STS Turbo Silverado 5.3L back in my hometown for about 5 years. I was running 8 psi with methanol injection (160 extra hp on top of the 310 from the factory). The wastegate got stuck once during winter. My PLX devices gauge shot up to over 30 psi for a few seconds and scared me to death so I immediately backed off the accelerator pedal. The billowing white tire smoke behind me was kinda awesome though!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
All right, update: I rotated the v-band, reset ECU, and compression came back between 151-154 on all cylinders. Definitely good news.

Took the car out for a spin. Continued to rapid-fire vent under acceleration. I'd seen that before when first running P2, and it was fixed by Toby via tune. A few minutes later on the highway, going to pass a car, throws P0234 code and goes in to limp mode.

I was really hoping it would be as easy as rotating the v-band. Back to square 1.
 

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Guess I’m sticking to stock turbo for a while...
 

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All right, update: I rotated the v-band, reset ECU, and compression came back between 151-154 on all cylinders. Definitely good news.

Took the car out for a spin. Continued to rapid-fire vent under acceleration. I'd seen that before when first running P2, and it was fixed by Toby via tune. A few minutes later on the highway, going to pass a car, throws P0234 code and goes in to limp mode.

I was really hoping it would be as easy as rotating the v-band. Back to square 1.
That is unfortunate, and it would be a tune issue. Contact Toby, I'm sure he can correct it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
That is unfortunate, and it would be a tune issue. Contact Toby, I'm sure he can correct it.
Always my first go to once I've done all I can do. Like I said, we've been talking for months to no avail.

I'm going to disassemble and inspect my BOV again, try switching back to the turbosmart wga, and flash a map for that. Also unhooked my 45psi gauge tap to see if that was a possible weak spot. It wasn't, but I'm going to run a gauge off the sensor for the time being for best accuracy.

One mod I think I ommitted originally was that I have NGEN's ported manifold as well, though I've been lead to believe that shouldn't be a factor in this.

Edit: disassembled BOV and everything looks good. I did realize I'm running the blue spring, not the yellow. In my installation thread Chris does say to use blue for phase 1 or 2. Guessing I should be on yellow, then.
 

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If I were at the big turbo stage I’d try to get an advanced datalogger to log the proprietary OBD parameters like target boost, EGT, knock, etc., make sure nothing is out of line. Cheap insurance vs an engine rebuild. Also try out different tunes. People go to more than one mechanic for a problem to get a second opinion, the same should apply to tunes
 

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Always my first go to once I've done all I can do. Like I said, we've been talking for months to no avail.

I'm going to disassemble and inspect my BOV again, try switching back to the turbosmart wga, and flash a map for that. Also unhooked my 45psi gauge tap to see if that was a possible weak spot. It wasn't, but I'm going to run a gauge off the sensor for the time being for best accuracy.

One mod I think I ommitted originally was that I have NGEN's ported manifold as well, though I've been lead to believe that shouldn't be a factor in this.

Edit: disassembled BOV and everything looks good. I did realize I'm running the blue spring, not the yellow. In my installation thread Chris does say to use blue for phase 1 or 2. Guessing I should be on yellow, then.
Hi Jon,
Last attempt..
More than the BOV I’d try to focus on the Forge WGA.. which model do you have (type 048 or 049) ? Which spring did you use? And finally which crack pressure did you set and how?

bye Patrick
 

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Definitely get the TurboSmart WGA back on and crack set to 10-11. The OEM was the cause of the boost dumping you first encountered. Another suggestion is to just kinda cruise around in it for a while without really getting on it. Some half throttle-ish rolling pulls keeping the boost down in the mid teens for a bit. Let the ECU learn the WGA angles to regulate boost a bit. Every one of my spikes were early on when I jumped on it after major tune revisions or ECU clearings. It was also gear independent. When I just drove it to work for a week and here and there semi aggressively passed people for a bit and then got on it a week into it, the boost had a better curve and wouldn't spike.

The day mine melted down was the first time really slamming into 5th after maxing 4th out with a fresh Phase 4 and Methanol Map. The boost alarm didn't just blip at 30PSI, it stayed on long enough that I looked over and saw 36PSI at that point and then I let off. Won't ever forget the strange whirring sound at the same time as the alarm that I couldn't place at that moment. It was the #2 piston shrapnel flying thru the turbine and out the exhaust.

Why I never got over boost codes like you, I have no idea. I have plenty of pictures of mid 30s and even a 41PSI momentary spike that the engine survived. How I never saw it with all the crack pressure and spring changes that were done haunts me every day.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hi Jon,
Last attempt..
More than the BOV I’d try to focus on the Forge WGA.. which model do you have (type 048 or 049) ? Which spring did you use? And finally which crack pressure did you set and how?

bye Patrick
Thanks, Patrick. I'm on the factory WGA with 6psi crack pressure currently. I also have a Turbosmart sitting in my garage I'll take a stab at running.

Definitely get the TurboSmart WGA back on and crack set to 10-11. The OEM was the cause of the boost dumping you first encountered. Another suggestion is to just kinda cruise around in it for a while without really getting on it. Some half throttle-ish rolling pulls keeping the boost down in the mid teens for a bit. Let the ECU learn the WGA angles to regulate boost a bit. Every one of my spikes were early on when I jumped on it after major tune revisions or ECU clearings. It was also gear independent. When I just drove it to work for a week and here and there semi aggressively passed people for a bit and then got on it a week into it, the boost had a better curve and wouldn't spike.

The day mine melted down was the first time really slamming into 5th after maxing 4th out with a fresh Phase 4 and Methanol Map. The boost alarm didn't just blip at 30PSI, it stayed on long enough that I looked over and saw 36PSI at that point and then I let off. Won't ever forget the strange whirring sound at the same time as the alarm that I couldn't place at that moment. It was the #2 piston shrapnel flying thru the turbine and out the exhaust.

Why I never got over boost codes like you, I have no idea. I have plenty of pictures of mid 30s and even a 41PSI momentary spike that the engine survived. How I never saw it with all the crack pressure and spring changes that were done haunts me every day.
Heard that, thank you. It's wild to me as well that your car never threw a code. I am thankful my car is erring on the side of caution and calling it quits. I was getting my butt kicked at work for a while, finally getting my head above water, I'll get this figured out.
 
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