True, however with enough ingenuity anything is possible!No, because it isn`t an electronic valve. It works with pressure IN the exhaust system.
I imagine that performance would be about the same, but the dual modes with the Monza system is an advantage for some people. There are times when you just don't want a lot of noise.Any one has compared sound and performance ?
Monza looks pretty restrictive ad complex if bypass valves are involved.
How much that end up running you?I have a Classica so I have the resonator. I had the muffler shop unbolt the muffler and run it. The sound was perfect! They built me a pipe to replace the muffler. You can do the same. Just two bolts, undo and pull the muffler out of the way. Run it and see if you like it!
$250 for a Y pipe with tips. Still looks stock. They also welded on the appropriate hangers.How much that end up running you?
How was the booming while cruising? I've got a Goodwin muffler delete on the way for my Abarth and have heard mixed opinions of the sound.Muffler delete was done. Abarth have no resonators...so you will get booming sound especially at 3000 rpm. I added a 12 in resonator (2.25 diam) near the mid hanger....booming gone, yet noise still nice. I guess the Monza design act as a muffler/resonator . Also changed tips as I prefer a fuller look.
Sound preference is very subjective, much depends on the expectations and desires of the listener. My wife prefers our complete combo with resonated midpipe, she drives our Fiat 124 a lot, so that is the combo on our Fiat124. Our Male customers under 30.... and over 60... are showing slight preference for the complete setup without resonator. The guys in the middle 31-59 range and pretty much all female owners seem to prefer setup with resonator in the midpipe. These are generalities that I have observed in the buying patterns to date, obviously there are exceptions.
Most folks love the look of the QUAD over our Duals....but for those on the fence about the sound level choice our Duals has the adjustment feature that allows user to easily put in a pair of resonator silencers that slide into each tip. Note the videos will not help much on the choice of resonator/non-resonator because it's more a question of volume and obviously there is no reference standard for computer speaker volume. Thus, best guidance we can give is to suggest you think about what you want, the full system with resonator is not going to offend the ears of anyone, folks who do not know the car will not realize it is not stock because result with resonator in the midpipe is similar to stock Abarth sound levels, and a bit more refined by the resonator. Those who want more than stock Abarth sound should look at our full setup without resonator.
Note ALL the combo bundles on our site are with resonator, we figured that was the 'safer' route for most. Our suggestion is, if in doubt, go resonator....you can always cut it out later if you must have it louder. Just a partial list below of latest additions now that we are shipping all choices for Abarth and non-Abarth, manual and automatic, see site for more!
Abarth Complete Bundle Automatic...at THIS LINK.
Abarth Complete Bundle Manual....at THIS LINK.
And NON-Abarth Complete Bundle Automatic Quad at THIS LINK.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umtfS1KOlE8
Fantastic, my quad-delete arrives tomorrow - very excited to get it installed! As always, thanks for the help!Indeed the Turbo is a great resonator. In ALL our Miata exhausts for current and last generation we use a Helmholtz resonator to kill resonance in the 120/130 Hz range by 48+ db inside the car. Picture below is side branch Helmholtz tucked up neat in NC Miata midpipe tunnel.
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And with the ND generation Miatas we include it at the rear:
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We initially planned the same with the Fiat but found it unnecessary because indeed the turbo is such a good sound blender/resonator.
Yes, you can do midpipe installs at home, we made it really easy. Instruction Summary below:
Instruction Summary:
1. Unbolt braces blocking your access to the midpipe.
2. Unbolt the flange at both ends of factory midpipe (two bolts each).
3. Lower and remove factory midpipe.
4. Notice that replacement midpipe has a slip joint in the middle. The only mistake that folks sometimes make is that they shove the slip joint all the way together. Instead of doing that, realize that the slip joint is there as your friend so you can adjust length as you need it to match the flange of the stock header, aftermarket headers, and any muffler on the back end. The slip joint also allows you to adjust height that the midpipe hangs at. Make it short to raise the midpipe. Make it longer to lower the midpipe. And move it right or left by twisting at the slip joint. With these thoughts in mind, lube up the joint with dish soap and connect two halfs of the midpipe but keep the clamp in the middle just barely snug for now. Match the new midpipe to the rough length and orientation of the factory midpipe that you already removed by laying them side by side on the garage floor.
5. Now raise the new midpipe into the car, bolt the front half to the header exit, connect the single midpipe hanger, and thread the bolts for the rear flange connecting midpipe to muffler (open and slide the slip joint as needed to make this happen).
6. Now look at how it hangs. Adjust the slip flange so that the midpipe hangs where you want it. To tighten your bolts start at the front flange which connects to the header and get the flanges all nicely lined up evenly and then bolt those down first. Then head back and adjust slip joint until you get the flange that connects to the muffler nicely lined up and flat and bolt that flange down. Torque to about 25 foot pounds (if you don't have a torque wrench the Harbor Freight $15 torque wrench works really well for the price).
7. Lastly, torque the clamp that holds the slip joint and reinstall braces that you pulled for access. Slip joint bolt to just 15 foot pounds, just 10 foot pounds for the relatively small brace bolts.