US Abarth muffler delete vs Monza
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I have a monza (uk car) and for a short while had it running as a straight through exhaust.
It's just a simple valve that's operated by back pressure - once the RPM reach about 3k and you're giving it some, the pressure forces it open and it becomes straight through.
You can just remove the spring and push the valve back and then wire it open!
However, I soon reverted back as I didnt like the noise of it always open!
It's not an overly complicated exhaust, and sounds great when the valve is operating as it should!
It's just a simple valve that's operated by back pressure - once the RPM reach about 3k and you're giving it some, the pressure forces it open and it becomes straight through.
You can just remove the spring and push the valve back and then wire it open!
However, I soon reverted back as I didnt like the noise of it always open!
It's not an overly complicated exhaust, and sounds great when the valve is operating as it should!
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726 Posts
My Corvette's dual mode exhaust opened at 3k as well. I removed the fuse and installed a rocker switch under the dash (which connected to the fuse slot), allowing the driver to control the open/close function whenever desired. I wonder if that could be done to the 124 with Monza.
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449 Posts
No, because it isn`t an electronic valve. It works with pressure IN the exhaust system.
True, however with enough ingenuity anything is possible!
I imagine that performance would be about the same, but the dual modes with the Monza system is an advantage for some people. There are times when you just don't want a lot of noise.
Greg
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89 Posts
I have a Classica so I have the resonator. I had the muffler shop unbolt the muffler and run it. The sound was perfect! They built me a pipe to replace the muffler. You can do the same. Just two bolts, undo and pull the muffler out of the way. Run it and see if you like it!
How much that end up running you?
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587 Posts
I've done muffler deletes on several cars in the past such as a Focus ST, BMW 135i (pulling fuse 42 on my C7 was basically the same) and they all sounded great (to me) and every one cost under $100 at my local muffler shop. Keep in mind that what is loud to one person may not be to the next - sound is always subjective!
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106 Posts
Result
Muffler delete was done. Abarth have no resonators...so you will get booming sound especially at 3000 rpm. I added a 12 in resonator (2.25 diam) near the mid hanger....booming gone, yet noise still nice. I guess the Monza design act as a muffler/resonator . Also changed tips as I prefer a fuller look.
Muffler delete was done. Abarth have no resonators...so you will get booming sound especially at 3000 rpm. I added a 12 in resonator (2.25 diam) near the mid hanger....booming gone, yet noise still nice. I guess the Monza design act as a muffler/resonator . Also changed tips as I prefer a fuller look.
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89 Posts
$250 for a Y pipe with tips. Still looks stock. They also welded on the appropriate hangers.
How was the booming while cruising? I've got a Goodwin muffler delete on the way for my Abarth and have heard mixed opinions of the sound.
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106 Posts
I have a muffler delete NOT from Goodwin...so not sure if the result will be same.....but the booming was loud between 2500 and 3000 which is most of my driving....head hurt booming.
Tips are from COLT, 4 in diam....yes looks big at first....but I find it fit perfect/fills the space in the opening leaving 0.5 all around.
https://www.coltexhaust.com/exhaust-tips-c-1/?zenid=f5e3ddd8f35f17a1c2594c1bca96d6d4
Tips are from COLT, 4 in diam....yes looks big at first....but I find it fit perfect/fills the space in the opening leaving 0.5 all around.
https://www.coltexhaust.com/exhaust-tips-c-1/?zenid=f5e3ddd8f35f17a1c2594c1bca96d6d4
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1,148 Posts
Sound preference is very subjective, much depends on the expectations and desires of the listener. My wife prefers our complete combo with resonated midpipe, she drives our Fiat 124 a lot, so that is the combo on our Fiat124. Our Male customers under 30.... and over 60... are showing slight preference for the complete setup without resonator. The guys in the middle 31-59 range and pretty much all female owners seem to prefer setup with resonator in the midpipe. These are generalities that I have observed in the buying patterns to date, obviously there are exceptions.
Most folks love the look of the QUAD over our Duals....but for those on the fence about the sound level choice our Duals has the adjustment feature that allows user to easily put in a pair of resonator silencers that slide into each tip. Note the videos will not help much on the choice of resonator/non-resonator because it's more a question of volume and obviously there is no reference standard for computer speaker volume. Thus, best guidance we can give is to suggest you think about what you want, the full system with resonator is not going to offend the ears of anyone, folks who do not know the car will not realize it is not stock because result with resonator in the midpipe is similar to stock Abarth sound levels, and a bit more refined by the resonator. Those who want more than stock Abarth sound should look at our full setup without resonator.
Note ALL the combo bundles on our site are with resonator, we figured that was the 'safer' route for most. Our suggestion is, if in doubt, go resonator....you can always cut it out later if you must have it louder. Just a partial list below of latest additions now that we are shipping all choices for Abarth and non-Abarth, manual and automatic, see site for more!
Abarth Complete Bundle Automatic...at THIS LINK.
Abarth Complete Bundle Manual....at THIS LINK.
And NON-Abarth Complete Bundle Automatic Quad at THIS LINK.
Most folks love the look of the QUAD over our Duals....but for those on the fence about the sound level choice our Duals has the adjustment feature that allows user to easily put in a pair of resonator silencers that slide into each tip. Note the videos will not help much on the choice of resonator/non-resonator because it's more a question of volume and obviously there is no reference standard for computer speaker volume. Thus, best guidance we can give is to suggest you think about what you want, the full system with resonator is not going to offend the ears of anyone, folks who do not know the car will not realize it is not stock because result with resonator in the midpipe is similar to stock Abarth sound levels, and a bit more refined by the resonator. Those who want more than stock Abarth sound should look at our full setup without resonator.
Note ALL the combo bundles on our site are with resonator, we figured that was the 'safer' route for most. Our suggestion is, if in doubt, go resonator....you can always cut it out later if you must have it louder. Just a partial list below of latest additions now that we are shipping all choices for Abarth and non-Abarth, manual and automatic, see site for more!
Abarth Complete Bundle Automatic...at THIS LINK.
Abarth Complete Bundle Manual....at THIS LINK.
And NON-Abarth Complete Bundle Automatic Quad at THIS LINK.
I think my biggest concern is more along the lines of resonance rather than volume. Hopefully the turbo does a decent job acting as a muffler.
Speaking of the mid-pipe, is installation simple with just a matter of jack stands or would you recommend taking the car to a shop?
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1,148 Posts
Indeed the Turbo is a great resonator. In ALL our Miata exhausts for current and last generation we use a Helmholtz resonator to kill resonance in the 120/130 Hz range by 48+ db inside the car. Picture below is side branch Helmholtz tucked up neat in NC Miata midpipe tunnel.
![]()
And with the ND generation Miatas we include it at the rear:
![]()
We initially planned the same with the Fiat but found it unnecessary because indeed the turbo is such a good sound blender/resonator.
Yes, you can do midpipe installs at home, we made it really easy. Instruction Summary below:
And with the ND generation Miatas we include it at the rear:
We initially planned the same with the Fiat but found it unnecessary because indeed the turbo is such a good sound blender/resonator.
Yes, you can do midpipe installs at home, we made it really easy. Instruction Summary below:
Instruction Summary:
1. Unbolt braces blocking your access to the midpipe.
2. Unbolt the flange at both ends of factory midpipe (two bolts each).
3. Lower and remove factory midpipe.
4. Notice that replacement midpipe has a slip joint in the middle. The only mistake that folks sometimes make is that they shove the slip joint all the way together. Instead of doing that, realize that the slip joint is there as your friend so you can adjust length as you need it to match the flange of the stock header, aftermarket headers, and any muffler on the back end. The slip joint also allows you to adjust height that the midpipe hangs at. Make it short to raise the midpipe. Make it longer to lower the midpipe. And move it right or left by twisting at the slip joint. With these thoughts in mind, lube up the joint with dish soap and connect two halfs of the midpipe but keep the clamp in the middle just barely snug for now. Match the new midpipe to the rough length and orientation of the factory midpipe that you already removed by laying them side by side on the garage floor.
5. Now raise the new midpipe into the car, bolt the front half to the header exit, connect the single midpipe hanger, and thread the bolts for the rear flange connecting midpipe to muffler (open and slide the slip joint as needed to make this happen).
6. Now look at how it hangs. Adjust the slip flange so that the midpipe hangs where you want it. To tighten your bolts start at the front flange which connects to the header and get the flanges all nicely lined up evenly and then bolt those down first. Then head back and adjust slip joint until you get the flange that connects to the muffler nicely lined up and flat and bolt that flange down. Torque to about 25 foot pounds (if you don't have a torque wrench the Harbor Freight $15 torque wrench works really well for the price).
7. Lastly, torque the clamp that holds the slip joint and reinstall braces that you pulled for access. Slip joint bolt to just 15 foot pounds, just 10 foot pounds for the relatively small brace bolts.
1. Unbolt braces blocking your access to the midpipe.
2. Unbolt the flange at both ends of factory midpipe (two bolts each).
3. Lower and remove factory midpipe.
4. Notice that replacement midpipe has a slip joint in the middle. The only mistake that folks sometimes make is that they shove the slip joint all the way together. Instead of doing that, realize that the slip joint is there as your friend so you can adjust length as you need it to match the flange of the stock header, aftermarket headers, and any muffler on the back end. The slip joint also allows you to adjust height that the midpipe hangs at. Make it short to raise the midpipe. Make it longer to lower the midpipe. And move it right or left by twisting at the slip joint. With these thoughts in mind, lube up the joint with dish soap and connect two halfs of the midpipe but keep the clamp in the middle just barely snug for now. Match the new midpipe to the rough length and orientation of the factory midpipe that you already removed by laying them side by side on the garage floor.
5. Now raise the new midpipe into the car, bolt the front half to the header exit, connect the single midpipe hanger, and thread the bolts for the rear flange connecting midpipe to muffler (open and slide the slip joint as needed to make this happen).
6. Now look at how it hangs. Adjust the slip flange so that the midpipe hangs where you want it. To tighten your bolts start at the front flange which connects to the header and get the flanges all nicely lined up evenly and then bolt those down first. Then head back and adjust slip joint until you get the flange that connects to the muffler nicely lined up and flat and bolt that flange down. Torque to about 25 foot pounds (if you don't have a torque wrench the Harbor Freight $15 torque wrench works really well for the price).
7. Lastly, torque the clamp that holds the slip joint and reinstall braces that you pulled for access. Slip joint bolt to just 15 foot pounds, just 10 foot pounds for the relatively small brace bolts.
Fantastic, my quad-delete arrives tomorrow - very excited to get it installed! As always, thanks for the help!Indeed the Turbo is a great resonator. In ALL our Miata exhausts for current and last generation we use a Helmholtz resonator to kill resonance in the 120/130 Hz range by 48+ db inside the car. Picture below is side branch Helmholtz tucked up neat in NC Miata midpipe tunnel.
![]()
And with the ND generation Miatas we include it at the rear:
![]()
We initially planned the same with the Fiat but found it unnecessary because indeed the turbo is such a good sound blender/resonator.
Yes, you can do midpipe installs at home, we made it really easy. Instruction Summary below:
Instruction Summary:
1. Unbolt braces blocking your access to the midpipe.
2. Unbolt the flange at both ends of factory midpipe (two bolts each).
3. Lower and remove factory midpipe.
4. Notice that replacement midpipe has a slip joint in the middle. The only mistake that folks sometimes make is that they shove the slip joint all the way together. Instead of doing that, realize that the slip joint is there as your friend so you can adjust length as you need it to match the flange of the stock header, aftermarket headers, and any muffler on the back end. The slip joint also allows you to adjust height that the midpipe hangs at. Make it short to raise the midpipe. Make it longer to lower the midpipe. And move it right or left by twisting at the slip joint. With these thoughts in mind, lube up the joint with dish soap and connect two halfs of the midpipe but keep the clamp in the middle just barely snug for now. Match the new midpipe to the rough length and orientation of the factory midpipe that you already removed by laying them side by side on the garage floor.
5. Now raise the new midpipe into the car, bolt the front half to the header exit, connect the single midpipe hanger, and thread the bolts for the rear flange connecting midpipe to muffler (open and slide the slip joint as needed to make this happen).
6. Now look at how it hangs. Adjust the slip flange so that the midpipe hangs where you want it. To tighten your bolts start at the front flange which connects to the header and get the flanges all nicely lined up evenly and then bolt those down first. Then head back and adjust slip joint until you get the flange that connects to the muffler nicely lined up and flat and bolt that flange down. Torque to about 25 foot pounds (if you don't have a torque wrench the Harbor Freight $15 torque wrench works really well for the price).
7. Lastly, torque the clamp that holds the slip joint and reinstall braces that you pulled for access. Slip joint bolt to just 15 foot pounds, just 10 foot pounds for the relatively small brace bolts.
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