Water pump
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Unfortunately there was a batch of pumps out there that leaked. I am surprised at only taking a week to get it replaced though, it is not a fun job for sure.
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430 Posts
I have an '18 and they replaced mine when they did the thermostat.
Losing coolant would be first sign, then look for the dried Kermit it-aint-easy-being-green stains. That is a nice plus to the FL22 coolant when it dries, you can see it easily. Water Pump is on the front, middle-left on the timing belt loop behind the cover. Thermostat is other spot that may leak or go bad and that's on the back of the head and a REAL treat to get to in situ.
As long as you don't overheat and warp the head, you shouldn't be left stranded.
As long as you don't overheat and warp the head, you shouldn't be left stranded.
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430 Posts
I had that sickening sweet smell of coolant when I stopped, in the garage or after parking. No spots under the car.
18 Abarth 6MT, all the options, Chipbox and OEM Abarth fender badges. Pedalbooster not installed
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320 Posts
I suspect that FIATCare are busy suggesting the owners contact a dealer to resolve any issues as they usually do. I have yet to see anything really helpful come from an postings here by FIATCare. Also, providing that sort of information would require that they admit there is an issue, no?
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1,087 Posts
I’d bet you a craft brew of your choice that there was nothing wrong with the thermostat. I went around that bush with the local monkeys who think they’re a service department . I still have the original part.
Best regards
Pete
After looking at some of the FCA RTV used and how it was applied to the water pump and thermostat, I could see the seal being the leak and not a true failed part. There are no gaskets, very few on the engine at all for that matter. When its on good though, its like cement. I had a hard time getting the oil pan off for sure.
Then there are other parts that are sealed with just an oring and one 4mm stud and nut holding the pipe in place. This engine may be pretty bad ass in design for what it does and can do, but the layout is pretty crazy to work on.
Then there are other parts that are sealed with just an oring and one 4mm stud and nut holding the pipe in place. This engine may be pretty bad ass in design for what it does and can do, but the layout is pretty crazy to work on.
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1,142 Posts
Pikeman + Calehedron, thank you so much for posting that! I'm coming up on my 4 years, and with the warranty running out in July, I've been contemplating whether to bring my car in because of the sporadic whiff of antifreeze. It's never been to the dealer, I've done my own oil changes, and since I haven't needed to add antifreeze yet, I may just take my chances that I don't actually have a defective water pump (and it's a 2017; not a 2018).
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3,716 Posts
I get an occasional coolant smell, but I’ve yet to see evidence of a leak. The coolant bottle is vented, I attribute the smell as coming from there.
Now's the time to ask to see the guts! Only problem is I keep disturbing my original placements but as long as its me moving stuff its ok.
So here's my water pump and the hole in the block. The block surface is smooth but the pump has a groove that runs all the way around. There were a few spots the RTV wasn't in the groove, it could have been a bit more even all around but it didn't leak. It is hard, not pliable at all. I don't see the pump itself leaking at the bearing seal for a long time.
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1,142 Posts
I never thought about the overflow hose also being a vent hose for transfer activity between the pressurized system chamber and the coolant reservoir, and unlike in vehicles without bottom pans, this vented air is perhaps more likely to be drawn into the cabin air inflow.
So far, yes. Everyone that had a leak has had it repaired under warranty.
Welcome to the club. My 2018 had to have the water pump done at 1800 miles.
More show and tell! Here's the FCA Coolant RTV I purchased in Mid-March 2020. Greg mentions in his engine build video that the tubes he got were YEARS out of date. The manual even calls out time limits from moment of application, to seal, to torque. The Oil RTV expires the end of July. Uh, Maybe..... Guess I will be going with the JB Weld brand route like Greg. It's RED too!
![76440]()
Now back to the other head scratchers in the cooling system. Here's the exhaust side water manifold I mentioned before and Greg talks about this one in his last video. It's just shoved into the hole opposite the water pump and seals with a double humped purple oring. A single 4mm stud and nut hold it all in place while splitting to the turbo, oil cooler, and back to the radiator. That oring costs more than the timing belt, serpentine belt, head gasket, MA gasket, and cover gasket combined or very close to that whole order I placed before I looked into the oring. Gonna lube/condition it up with Krytox high temp, low reactive grease I have in excess at work to help it seal again.
![76445]()
Now back to the other head scratchers in the cooling system. Here's the exhaust side water manifold I mentioned before and Greg talks about this one in his last video. It's just shoved into the hole opposite the water pump and seals with a double humped purple oring. A single 4mm stud and nut hold it all in place while splitting to the turbo, oil cooler, and back to the radiator. That oring costs more than the timing belt, serpentine belt, head gasket, MA gasket, and cover gasket combined or very close to that whole order I placed before I looked into the oring. Gonna lube/condition it up with Krytox high temp, low reactive grease I have in excess at work to help it seal again.
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