[Huttstew]

Will do HaZ (I actually have a scanner to look into the fault codes and it has the ability to monitor parameters live, so I will be sure to monitor those live).

Thanks again for all your help.

Stewart

 

[Huttstew]

Updates:

 

[Huttstew]

 

[HaZ]

14.07 is very impressive. I just hope what your doing is safe. Did John say nothing about piggyback over a tune? I’ve seen many comments here saying it’s dangerous.

 

[Huttstew]

I have not fessed up to John (and I won't). I understand it is "dangerous", but I know Tork tunes (stage 1) do not touch boost - and the piggyback works on boost, so for me (and I know I run the risk of the whole thing going bad), it is a good combination. I have dialled down the tuning box to setting 4/5 as 5 was over-fuelling too much and I am monitoring the parameters via the OBD2 reader and all seems good for now....

My goal is to bet to sub-14 on the stock turbo, I got a 13.66 with a -2 gradient so I know it is possible!

 

[Huttstew]

OK, so I achieved my goal of a sub-14. I am now going to lay off the runs for a while as I am sure my left-foot-as-launch-control is placing a good amount of strain on my drivetrain.

 

[deletedmember20192]

I would definitely deactivate the piggyback before engine goes bye bye. They’ve gone bad with less.

 

[sharkcohen]

I have not fessed up to John (and I won't). I understand it is "dangerous", but I know Tork tunes (stage 1) do not touch boost - and the piggyback works on boost, so for me (and I know I run the risk of the whole thing going bad), it is a good combination. I have dialled down the tuning box to setting 4/5 as 5 was over-fuelling too much and I am monitoring the parameters via the OBD2 reader and all seems good for now....

My goal is to bet to sub-14 on the stock turbo, I got a 13.66 with a -2 gradient so I know it is possible!

I think the only trouble the combo could give you is too much ignition advance, which could potentially be bad.

 

[gregaustex]

Tork tunes (stage 1) do not touch boost

How in the world do they get significant power gains without increasing the boost?

 

[HaZ]

How in the world do they get significant power gains without increasing the boost?

Yeah Tork does increase boost over stock but John relies more on timing and some sort of trick he knows. Somehow his tune is able to make more power than competing tunes that run much higher boost. It’s a mystery to me as to how he does it.

 

[gregaustex]

I have no idea, but it would probably mean he found something far less than ideal in the stock tune. I wonder if he determined that the stock tune is running much richer than necessary and that you can safely lean things out a bit? That and timing is all I can think of might make a real difference beyond boost. He probably knows a lot of things I don't.

 

[Huttstew]

I think the only trouble the combo could give you is too much ignition advance, which could potentially be bad.

I know I am running a risk...but to mitigate it I am using the highest octane fuel I can and then adding octane booster. That plus the knock sensor should provide a degree of protection...but I know I could easily be proven wrong (and then it is 4c engine swap time...)

 

[Huttstew]

I know I am running a risk...but to mitigate it I am using the highest octane fuel I can and then adding octane booster. That plus the knock sensor should provide a degree of protection...but I know I could easily be proven wrong (and then it is 4c engine swap time...)

Update...I have decided to listen to you guys and have removed the piggyback for now (I may be ignorant, but I do listen!) and I am going to research what the various piggyback maps do timing so I can at least estimate a safe limit. When the dynos are back open here (or rather the local one that I used to get my original piggyback pull + no mods), I will book some time in and get some runs on stock with mods, Tork stage 1 with mods and then the stack of the Tork and the piggyback on the setting that delivered the 13.7 1/4, just to see the incremental differences. Thank You all for your input. It is appreciated.

 

[HaZ]

Update...I have decided to listen to you guys and have removed the piggyback for now (I may be ignorant, but I do listen!) and I am going to research what the various piggyback maps do timing so I can at least estimate a safe limit. When the dynos are back open here (or rather the local one that I used to get my original piggyback pull + no mods), I will book some time in and get some runs on stock with mods, Tork stage 1 with mods and then the stack of the Tork and the piggyback on the setting that delivered the 13.7 1/4, just to see the incremental differences. Thank You all for your input. It is appreciated.

Wise choice, although I must say making room for a 4C engine is not a bad idea either

I would seriously bring up the piggyback with John and ask why this is happening. Maybe he made a mistake with your tune and the tune is supposed to safely make the same power as what you're getting with tune + piggyback. Also getting on the dyno is a good idea. If you're not getting at least close to the advertised hp gain, then John made a mistake. He is one of the most honest tuners when it comes to claiming power figures. If he says you'll get 180 whp, you should get 180 whp, and if you don't, he'll keep fixing it until you do. He takes pride in his work and if he is how I know him to be, a Tork tuned car making less than advertised figures would be inexcusable to him.

 

[Huttstew]

Update as of 1st May.

Took the spider to the Dyno to see what it was making. I am not sure if I am happy or not....but I guess I shouldn‘t expect miracle.

So this run shows the difference to my original pull in December where the only mod I had with was the tuning box. Now with the intake, sport cat, turbo blanket, gfb dv+, coils and stacking the tuning box on top of a Tork stage 1 tune.

December pull - 182hp and 211lbs/ft
1st May pull (same dyno) - 201hp (I am rounding up!) and 236lbs/ft.

 

[Evolved]

Update as of 1st May.

Took the spider to the Dyno to see what it was making. I am not sure if I am happy or not....but I guess I shouldn‘t expect miracle.

So this run shows the difference to my original pull in December where the only mod I had with was the tuning box. Now with the intake, sport cat, turbo blanket, gfb dv+, coils and stacking the tuning box on top of a Tork stage 1 tune.

December pull - 182hp and 211lbs/ft
1st May pull (same dyno) - 201hp (I am rounding up!) and 236lbs/ft.

View attachment 84173

Your last post said you took off the tuning box since a lot of member said it's probably unsafe to stack the box with the Tork tune. Just to clarify you put it back on since this new dyno you said is only comparing "tuning "box vs "tuning box and tork tune" together (not counting the extra mods)?

What made you change your mind that it's safe to stack both of them now? Do you have just a dyno of Tork Stage 1 to compare to your other results and just the tuning box?

 

[alltimesaresoon]

But really, if you are going to run stacked, tell john. Only reason not to is fear that he's going to tell you to stop it. It's better to know than to hide that. He may tell you not to do it but helps him understand your spider and allows for an improved tune. It's just self destructive.

 

[sharkcohen]

But really, if you are going to run stacked, tell john. Only reason not to is fear that he's going to tell you to stop it. It's better to know than to hide that. He may tell you not to do it but helps him understand your spider and allows for an improved tune. It's just self destructive.

My thoughts exactly.

 

[frankmar]

Me think it's the BLUE pill in the tank.

 

[sharkcohen]

I think people get too hung up on dyno results. Every car is different, every dyno is different, and you won’t necessarily get the exact numbers claimed by a vendor. I think it’s more important to gauge if a mod improved the car. If using a dyno to do that, look to see if there was an improvement, not just the numbers themselves. Look at area under the curve, and the shape of the curve compared to before the mod. It’s only useful to do this if you have a baseline to compare. It might be more beneficial to an end consumer to use good data tools and do mph/kph pulls (safely) on the street and then compare before and after a mod, like @Evolved does. Or, take it to a track and run it in the 1/4 mile, which is a really good gauge of real world horsepower. There are even good tools to run during a 1/4 mile pull that can create horsepower graphs from the data.

I haven’t done any of this for my car. I generally know what has made improvements based on how it feels. It is not the same car I bought, particularly in how the power/torque come on and how it pulls to redline. The improvements are obvious, I don’t need numbers. It was tame when I bought it. It’s honestly scary sometimes now LOL.

it certainly didn’t do this when I bought it: