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JUST AS CALEHEDRON says Lads and here it is...........

 

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From what manual?
I think I googled Brickoil and got Brickoil 200mldownload.webp........it says oil quantity for first filling is 240 cc following Multiair module replacement it must be filled with oil for the first time using a suitable tool to compress the ball valve (1)
I have spent many hours studying all sorts of crap (sad I know) and usually print off only the crap that may turn out to be useful crap, so not crap at all and now I am talking crap ! Cheers
ron
 

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I think I googled Brickoil and got Brickoil 200mldownload.webp........it says oil quantity for first filling is 240 cc following Multiair module replacement it must be filled with oil for the first time using a suitable tool to compress the ball valve (1)
I have spent many hours studying all sorts of crap (sad I know) and usually print off only the crap that may turn out to be useful crap, so not crap at all and now I am talking crap ! Cheers
ron
Interestingly if you look at the INITIAL date of this thread then go to 21st Century Fiat/Abarth 124 Spider by Dan of Ameridan article for that same date entitled RE-ESTABLISHING OIL FLOW in Multi-Air "Brick" after long-term storage, the same day he wrote it up, with photo's and diagrams. Hope this helps everybody, Cheers
ron
 

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Yes, having a little extra oil on top from the pour in may have helped with it sucking through that same check valve you have to fill it with. It is a flaw of the MA brick absolutely, it is not the norm for any engine with an intake cam. The manual warns about it. If you had walked up, put 200ml in that hole, it would have started first crank. I promise you.

I'm not trying to be rude here. I have just read the manuals; owners, tech, repair, and diagnostic from front to back and torn this engine down to its last piece so I have a decent handle on how it works. I am here to help everyone, not start pissing contests. You want to see how anything works, now is the time to ask while the engine is in 1000s of pieces and I can go over ANYTHING you want with as many pictures, references, and explanations as you want.
This is way beyond my abilities. I would like to know more about why things work or don’t. In the interim, I am storing my 2017 124 Spider Abarth for a Wisconsin winter. Do I start her up every now and then, or not? I have had her detailed, tires at 50 psi, oil changed with brake and transmission fluids changed as well, 12 oz Seafoam in gas, filled tank, run 30 miles, put trickle charger on her. Will get a small box fan to keep condensation low in garage. Have dessicant packs for trunk and inside vehicle. Have mouse traps loaded. Now, do I need to start her up every month (?) or so and expect condensation and rust over time, or do I pretend she’s happy at rest? I love this car.
 

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It is best to start it monthly if you can. It is just what happens with the MultiAir Brick over time.
 

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GONE18 Abarth 6MT, all the options, Chipbox and OEM Abarth fender badges. Pedalbooster not installed
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I started mine every three weeks +/- and ran it about 10 minutes during the winter storage. Started perfectly all winter and of course on spring get out. Seems a poor design but it's a quirk of the car and I'll put up with it since everything else about the car is such a joy.
 

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My plan is to start her every two weeks and give a little exercise when roads are dry and salt-free and temps are over 40F. What about lowering and raising the top once in a while to keep it limber?
 

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I don't think it's necessary to lower and raise the top. Leaving it in the raised position is best. In the past I had a roadster (soft top) and left the top down while the car was stored. It was difficult to raise the top and secure it in place when I tried to raise it 4 months later.
 
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My plan is to start her every two weeks and give a little exercise when roads are dry and salt-free and temps are over 40F. What about lowering and raising the top once in a while to keep it limber?
Hi Chipshot mate......starting the Spider and running it for about 20 minutes every 3-4 weeks will do the job of keeping "The Brick" happy and the battery charged, as "AbarthEsq" says ...Leave the top up (I also leave a tiny gap top of windows for circulation and to allow air out as I shut the door (old MGB habit ), the advice is for folk who leave their top down only, as it will crease in the folds and mark up, could even crack over time possibly so raising the top and giving it a stretch is a good thing, leaving it up over winter if not using the Spider is fine. Cheers
ron
 
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Hi Chipshot mate......starting the Spider and running it for about 20 minutes every 3-4 weeks will do the job of keeping "The Brick" happy and the battery charged, as "AbarthEsq" says ...Leave the top up (I also leave a tiny gap top of windows for circulation and to allow air out as I shut the door (old MGB habit ), the advice is for folk who leave their top down only, as it will crease in the folds and mark up, could even crack over time possibly so raising the top and giving it a stretch is a good thing, leaving it up over winter if not using the Spider is fine. Cheers
ron
Thanks for the time suggestion. I'm not sure I would have run it that long. Maybe I'll back out of the garage when the driveway is clear, so what little in the way of fumes are produced waft into the atmosphere directly. Will be fun to do on an especially cold day and take a picture of the temperature reading on the Spider's cluster.
 

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I had the same problem after storage and did everything that every post on every forum suggested.... Oil, plugs, battery, fuses and the rest. It would not start. I had charged the battery numerous times and also had a booster pack connected. I gave up one night after 5 days of trying, closed the bonnet/hood for the first time in 5 days, sat in the car and gave it one last go, it started first time. I can only assume that closing the bonnet/hood reset something.... Does this sound daft?
 

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Yes, it does sound a tad daft. I can only surmise that you finally pumped enough oil into the MultiAir Brick that it was able to actuate the intake valves and all went according to Hoyle. Good you're back on the road again in any event. Enjoy the ride. Next year during winter storage start the car up about every 3 weeks and it should be a well behaved baby come spring!
 

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Has nothing to do with the oil pump, it will get there eventually. It is due to the Multi-Air brick needing oil to function and it drains over a long storage. The owners manual states to start the car every few weeks to prevent this. If you do let it sit, you don't have to drain and refill, the fact that it worked is just luck and was probably almost circulated before you drained it. Just pouring oil in won't put any oil directly into the brick.

It takes up to 240ml of oil to refill the brick from dead empty and can be done from the oil cap hole. It is the official FCA tech manual procedure for priming the brick on replacement. There is a ball bearing check valve on the brick you can see from the oil fill hole, the oil needs to be pushed into there.

Really need to get the mods to pin the last post where I went over the procedure in decent detail with pictures or give me the green light to do a full write up that will be permanently pinned so this is avoided in the future.
I do believe you have the best solution and much of the other suggestions are coincidence. A company Multiair Development has some pretty good information on their Zuckbook page explaining the oil circulation in the brick. I don't do Facebook but did grab this
 

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I second the "coincidence" comment. I can't see that removing the oil filler cap nor adding oil can have any effect on the problem. Seems that much cranking was already done prior . The brick needs to be pressurized...removing the oil cap or adding oil does not do that.
 

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I dont understand why the oil pump couldn't possibly be the cause of a "dry brick" scenario. This unit requires pressure to work, no oil pressure from pump - no worky. Could "dry brick" actually be "oil pump no prime"?
 

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I dont understand why the oil pump couldn't possibly be the cause of a "dry brick" scenario. This unit requires pressure to work, no oil pressure from pump - no worky. Could "dry brick" actually be "oil pump no prime"?
It would be my guess that there's a flow restrictor between the bottom end and the brick. Since the brick pressurizes the oil from a main pump fed reservoir is why I think this might be the case. My guess is the ball valve under the oil fill cap feeds to this reservoir in the brick. I'm going to have mine parked this winter for 3-4 months and plan to have a pumper oil can ready for spring. If I get the whirlie gig sound at the first attempt to start it I'll stop and give the brick a good dose of new oil. Thinking it might be a two person job to pump oil as the starter is cranked. I pretty much expect to do this since after sitting 21 days the car started but had a misfire for about 2 seconds before a normal idle. It's that or have my neighbor come up every three weeks to start the car.
 

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You'd think by now Fiat would have come up with some kind of a fix for this. It's annoying and a real design flaw; whoever their engine designers are, they should be embarassed. Chief of engineering should have been fired to release this out into the world. It's this kind of thing that has contributed to Fiat's lousy reputation.

That said, I just take my Lusso out every two-three weeks in winter on dry days and run it up to operating temp and charge hard through the gears a couple of times, then it's good to go for the next time.
 
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