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JUST AS CALEHEDRON says Lads and here it is...........

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I know this is an old post but I’m having same issue
Car was left for several months but during summer in hot Louisiana
I have been trying for days to get it started we have less that 5000k on the car
I have located the valve but it does not seem to move, I have tried pushing it with the smallest of watch screw drivers and also very small allen wrenches but it does not seem to move
Did full oil filter change too
How much pressure do you need to press the ball bearing ( I’m heavy handed and don’t want to damage it )
Any help would be great
 

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2018 Abarth 124 Spider, Mare Blue / Nero Abarth Leather, Brembo's, Record Monza, Automatic
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It doesn't normally take a lot of pressure to depress the check ball. If you have been cranking the engine over with the starter, then try to depress the check ball you may not be able to get the ball to depress. In this case, let the car sit for a number of hours, like overnight, then try depressing the check ball and introduce several ounces ( 5 to 10) of motor oil using a fine tipped oiler. s
 

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It doesn't normally take a lot of pressure to depress the check ball. If you have been cranking the engine over with the starter, then try to depress the check ball you may not be able to get the ball to depress. In this case, let the car sit for a number of hours, like overnight, then try depressing the check ball and introduce several ounces ( 5 to 10) of motor oil using a fine tipped oiler. s
I will try this and let you know sir, I’m kinda thinking it’s stuck, but again I’m vet heavy handed so don’t want to break anything
Appreciate the reply and apologize for being a very old post up
 

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Still did not budge I’m thinking it may be Stu k but I do t want to break it ?
Are you sure you are trying to depress the ball? I know it’s stupid to ask, but just to double check. Does anyone have a short video of it? That might help a bit more in your situation.

(Oddly, I have never had this problem, or any oil consumption issues - I’m curious why some have this problem and some don’t).
 

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Are you sure you are trying to depress the ball? I know it’s stupid to ask, but just to double check. Does anyone have a short video of it? That might help a bit more in your situation.

(Oddly, I have never had this problem, or any oil consumption issues - I’m curious why some have this problem and some don’t).
Yea sir I have tried with everything, very very small screwdriver, even smaller Allen wrench
I have tried with and without the wife cranking it over
 

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No, you don't want to break it. Unfortunately, my car is in winter storage and not here, so no video. Best I can do right now is suggest you take a very close look at post #21 in this thread - #1 points to the check ball. The ball usually depresses easily, except air pressure inside the brick, from cranking the engine over, may hold the ball shut. Maybe somebody out there that has their car handy could post a better pic or a short video showing the check ball and depressing it. Best, s
 

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No, you don't want to break it. Unfortunately, my car is in winter storage and not here, so no video. Best I can do right now is suggest you take a very close look at post #21 in this thread - #1 points to the check ball. The ball usually depresses easily, except air pressure inside the brick, from cranking the engine over, may hold the ball shut. Maybe somebody out there that has their car handy could post a better pic or a short video showing the check ball and depressing it. Best, s
Update
not sure if it’s relevant but that valve does not move at all
Now my spider is a 2020 and the handbook has nothing at all about starting the car after storage
Now it does state the 5 sec start 10 sec rest but that’s after a flat battery ??
Cut a long story short after the 3rd attempt this morning she fired up and is running no problem bear in mind of the last 2 weeks I have cranked it over more than 49 times, I left it for a week and boom she inspiring like a kitten

I appreciate all the replies tho
 

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Update
not sure if it’s relevant but that valve does not move at all
Now my spider is a 2020 and the handbook has nothing at all about starting the car after storage
Now it does state the 5 sec start 10 sec rest but that’s after a flat battery ??
Cut a long story short after the 3rd attempt this morning she fired up and is running no problem bear in mind of the last 2 weeks I have cranked it over more than 49 times, I left it for a week and boom she inspiring like a kitten

I appreciate all the replies tho
Purring like a kitten *
I think I deserve a cold beer
 

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You'd think by now Fiat would have come up with some kind of a fix for this. It's annoying and a real design flaw; whoever their engine designers are, they should be embarassed. Chief of engineering should have been fired to release this out into the world. It's this kind of thing that has contributed to Fiat's lousy reputation.

That said, I just take my Lusso out every two-three weeks in winter on dry days and run it up to operating temp and charge hard through the gears a couple of times, then it's good to go for the next time.
So I had the same issue recently from long storage (6 months).
Fiat told me to start it at least once a month for at least 15 minutes or drive it around like you mentioned during storage times.

I guess this is how we have to take care of the princess. Always needs our attention 😁
 

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My papa always taught me cars need to be started every two weeks, and allowed to run for at least 15 minutes. My Spider is no exception.

I haven’t had any battery or starter issues since I got the car 38 months ago.
 
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Has nothing to do with the oil pump, it will get there eventually. It is due to the Multi-Air brick needing oil to function and it drains over a long storage. The owners manual states to start the car every few weeks to prevent this. If you do let it sit, you don't have to drain and refill, the fact that it worked is just luck and was probably almost circulated before you drained it. Just pouring oil in won't put any oil directly into the brick.

It takes up to 240ml of oil to refill the brick from dead empty and can be done from the oil cap hole. It is the official FCA tech manual procedure for priming the brick on replacement. There is a ball bearing check valve on the brick you can see from the oil fill hole, the oil needs to be pushed into there.

Really need to get the mods to pin the last post where I went over the procedure in decent detail with pictures or give me the green light to do a full write up that will be permanently pinned so this is avoided in the future.
Absolutely brilliant and simple, bought an old fashioned cheap Chinese oil can [new so no contamination] with a short flexy tube and importantly a tapered end which I held manually on the sprung loaded ball bearing [seen on many posts] under the filler cap filled with 5-40w oil and about 40-60 squirts later tried to start and it stated to my amazement on 1 cylinder [it did nothing after 60- 80 or so start attempts previously because it does not have as mentioned by some a self priming pump] and I'm still pressing the starter button, which tripped out 3 more times - then suddenly all 4 cylinder came in !!!
WOW THIS IS SO SIMPLE and GREAT THANKS TO THE PERSON [ Calehedron, post: 522402, member: 15350] WHO PUT THIS UP, A BIG THANK YOU FROM Ray in the UK.
This car had not been started for 7-8 months !!!
THANK YOU EVERYONE, THIS IS SO SIMPLE I AM GOING TO KEEP THE CAR !!! and It's only done 1200 miles !
 

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I had the same issue this spring after pulling the car out from a 6 month storage (only on trickle charge).
I got it towed to Fiat (use my warranty so didn't pay) and they primed it for me.
They told me the same thing, you must start it at least every 3 weeks and let it run for 15/20 min.
I plan to do this from here on in to prevent this from happening again.
Should it happen, I'll take the advice of adding the 7oz of oil.
Regardless, still love the car 😬
 

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I had the same issue this spring after pulling the car out from a 6 month storage (only on trickle charge).
I got it towed to Fiat (use my warranty so didn't pay) and they primed it for me.
They told me the same thing, you must start it at least every 3 weeks and let it run for 15/20 min.
I plan to do this from here on in to prevent this from happening again.
Should it happen, I'll take the advice of adding the 7oz of oil.
Regardless, still love the car 😬
If you start every 6 weeks this is not ideal, oil dilution. Leave it for the 6 months after summer and simply unscrew the oil filler cap, hold the flexy spout of the oil can at 90 degrees to the 'ball valve' and pump about 40-70 times say with the end of the oil can flexy held gently on it. The ball valve has a very soft spring and so the pumping action of the oil can does the job, no need to put it under pressure as some have done with a separate oil tank, pointless !
 

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If you start every 6 weeks this is not ideal, oil dilution. Leave it for the 6 months after summer and simply unscrew the oil filler cap, hold the flexy spout of the oil can at 90 degrees to the 'ball valve' and pump about 40-70 times say with the end of the oil can flexy held gently on it. The ball valve has a very soft spring and so the pumping action of the oil can does the job, no need to put it under pressure as some have done with a separate oil tank, pointless !
I forgot to mention I have an oil 'sucker' , so get the oil level back to normal after the procedure, either through the drain plug or otherwise.
 

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If you start every 6 weeks this is not ideal, oil dilution. Leave it for the 6 months after summer and simply unscrew the oil filler cap, hold the flexy spout of the oil can at 90 degrees to the 'ball valve' and pump about 40-70 times say with the end of the oil can flexy held gently on it. The ball valve has a very soft spring and so the pumping action of the oil can does the job, no need to put it under pressure as some have done with a separate oil tank, pointless !
Cool, thanks. I'll copy/paste this into my routine notes.
I'm basic when it comes to mechanics so this helps alot.
 

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Has nothing to do with the oil pump, it will get there eventually. It is due to the Multi-Air brick needing oil to function and it drains over a long storage. The owners manual states to start the car every few weeks to prevent this. If you do let it sit, you don't have to drain and refill, the fact that it worked is just luck and was probably almost circulated before you drained it. Just pouring oil in won't put any oil directly into the brick.

It takes up to 240ml of oil to refill the brick from dead empty and can be done from the oil cap hole. It is the official FCA tech manual procedure for priming the brick on replacement. There is a ball bearing check valve on the brick you can see from the oil fill hole, the oil needs to be pushed into there.

Really need to get the mods to pin the last post where I went over the procedure in decent detail with pictures or give me the green light to do a full write up that will be permanently pinned so this is avoided in the future.
Has nothing to do with the oil pump, it will get there eventually. It is due to the Multi-Air brick needing oil to function and it drains over a long storage. The owners manual states to start the car every few weeks to prevent this. If you do let it sit, you don't have to drain and refill, the fact that it worked is just luck and was probably almost circulated before you drained it. Just pouring oil in won't put any oil directly into the brick.

It takes up to 240ml of oil to refill the brick from dead empty and can be done from the oil cap hole. It is the official FCA tech manual procedure for priming the brick on replacement. There is a ball bearing check valve on the brick you can see from the oil fill hole, the oil needs to be pushed into there.

Really need to get the mods to pin the last post where I went over the procedure in decent detail with pictures or give me the green light to do a full write up that will be permanently pinned so this is avoided in the future.
I did what you said, ABSOLUTE MAGIC, A BIG THANK YOU FROM THE UK

Absolutely brilliant and simple, bought an old fashioned cheap Chinese oil can [new so no contamination] with a short flexy tube and importantly a tapered end which I held manually on the sprung loaded ball bearing [seen on many posts] under the filler cap filled with 5-40w oil and about 40-60 squirts later tried to start and it stated to my amazement on 1 cylinder [it did nothing after 60- 80 or so start attempts previously because it does not have as mentioned by some a self priming pump] and I'm still pressing the starter button, which tripped out 3 more times - then suddenly all 4 cylinder came in !!!
WOW THIS IS SO SIMPLE and GREAT THANKS TO THE PERSON [ Calehedron, post: 522402, member: 15350] WHO PUT THIS UP, A BIG THANK YOU FROM Ray in the UK.
This car had not been started for 7-8 months !!!
THANK YOU EVERYONE, THIS IS SO SIMPLE I AM GOING TO KEEP THE CAR !!! and It's only done 1200 miles !
 

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Purring like a kitten *
I think I deserve a cold beer
Absolutely brilliant and simple, bought an old fashioned cheap Chinese oil can [new so no contamination] with a short flexy tube and importantly a tapered end which I held manually on the sprung loaded ball bearing [seen on many posts] under the filler cap filled with 5-40w oil and about 40-60 squirts later tried to start and it stated to my amazement on 1 cylinder [it did nothing after 60- 80 or so start attempts previously because it does not have as mentioned by some a self priming pump] and I'm still pressing the starter button, which tripped out 3 more times - then suddenly all 4 cylinder came in !!!
WOW THIS IS SO SIMPLE and GREAT THANKS TO THE PERSON [ Calehedron, post: 522402, member: 15350] WHO PUT THIS UP, A BIG THANK YOU FROM Ray in the UK.
This car had not been started for 7-8 months !!!
THANK YOU EVERYONE, THIS IS SO SIMPLE I AM GOING TO KEEP THE CAR !!! and It's only done 1200 miles !
By the way the ball bearing will only push down by 2mm max and the pressure from the oil can is sufficient to push the bearing down, it was an extremely weak spring to perform this task, all the best, Ray UK
 
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