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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...and it sucks. No search or appendix. It's just as bad as the 2013 Dart FSM. It's on CD, but it's not a PDF - it's a sort of browser-interactive layout that only works with IE (lazy programmers, lol).

But anyway, if anyone needs tech help getting at something that might be in the factory service manual, I'm happy to offer up whatever tech support I can.

:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any info on removing lower Passanger side dash?.
Why? Looking for the 12v accessory power?
Just kidding. They really hid that down there, though, right?

It looks pretty involved.

First, remove the passenger cowl side trim panel That involves also pulling the door sill scuff plate, door weatherstrip, and then that panel, with a trim stick.

Next, remove the a-pillar panel. Looks to be just clipped on, so I'm guessing a plastic trim tool again. Unplug the tweeter, if equipped.

There's now an exposed screw near the door. Unscrew it (duh!).

Again with the trim stick (I've been eyeballing a set Summit Racing has forever... might be time to invest?), pop the clips holding the panel in place.

That's for the plastic panel that's right under the two vents from the middle to the right side, just to be sure we'r talking about the same thing.

Install is pretty much the reverse of removal. Nothing special, it looks like.

If I get a free weekend, I plan on doing a write-up of pulling some of the interior, because I'm going to gut as much heavy sound deadener as possible from the passenger area to get weight out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey, great to have that resource! Could you figure out what the torque spec is for the engine pan/shield bolts?
No.

...well, okay, maybe. From what I can see, 71 - 80 in. lb (that's inch, not foot- they ain't lug nuts) if you're talking about the one directly under the engine. I haven't had that panel off... yet. 1200 miles on ours so far, so we haven't gotten as far as an oil change yet. If that thing looks to be structural, I'm going to get with my machine shop and have a truss-backed billet aluminum one made in its stead. That stamped crap under there doesn't look very rigid.
 

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No.

...well, okay, maybe. From what I can see, 71 - 80 in. lb (that's inch, not foot- they ain't lug nuts) if you're talking about the one directly under the engine. I haven't had that panel off... yet. 1200 miles on ours so far, so we haven't gotten as far as an oil change yet. If that thing looks to be structural, I'm going to get with my machine shop and have a truss-backed billet aluminum one made in its stead. That stamped crap under there doesn't look very rigid.
It's actually fairly heavy, and fairly rigid. It is indeed directly under the pan. You need to remove it to change oil.
 

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Hey! Thanks for helping out with this! Is there a torque spec for the nuts holding the crosspipe to the catalytic converter? Just put the GWR exhaust on and my car buddy used 18 ft/lbs but was reluctant to go any higher without a spec.

Thanks!
 

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Does it have electrical diagrams? These are often a different manual, but I hope not for the cost.
 

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There are two plastic pieces between the soft top opening and the trunk lid. In prior models of the MX-5, these were chrome brackets with a "Frankenstein" bolt used to mount hardtops. Many owners used that as a nice place to mount CB antenna brackets, and I'm wondering if there are weldnuts underneath these pieces that can be used for CB antenna brackets, and whether Mopar has brackets produced for potential hardtops. Or perhaps whether the Mazda brackets will fit.

Does the service manual have instructions regarding the removal of these pieces?
 

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It's actually fairly heavy, and fairly rigid. It is indeed directly under the pan. You need to remove it to change oil.
It's aluminum and it is not at all heavy.
 

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It's aluminum and it is not at all heavy.
Agreed, which actually ends up making it only a minor inconvenience ( unless you are trying to get your zero-to-oil change time down in the low teens ).
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There are two plastic pieces between the soft top opening and the trunk lid. In prior models of the MX-5, these were chrome brackets with a "Frankenstein" bolt used to mount hardtops. Many owners used that as a nice place to mount CB antenna brackets, and I'm wondering if there are weldnuts underneath these pieces that can be used for CB antenna brackets, and whether Mopar has brackets produced for potential hardtops. Or perhaps whether the Mazda brackets will fit.

Does the service manual have instructions regarding the removal of these pieces?
Can you post a reference to the part you're describing from one of the online parts stores? I'm looking in convertible top removal, and I'm not seeing those pieces described. There are A LOT of steps in the top removal (which is kinda a bummer, as I was thinking of a way to make it quickly removable with pins or something for pulling dead weight for a race).
 

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Can you post a reference to the part you're describing from one of the online parts stores? I'm looking in convertible top removal, and I'm not seeing those pieces described. There are A LOT of steps in the top removal (which is kinda a bummer, as I was thinking of a way to make it quickly removable with pins or something for pulling dead weight for a race).
These are the plastic pieces I'm asking about...
 

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These are the plastic pieces I'm asking about...
I really don't think my Abarth has those. Pretty sure mine has one continuous piece stretching from one quarter panel to the next :confused:
 

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Take a closer look. They are there on ALL our vehicles (and ND Miatas). They stood out more on earlier generation Miatas, because they were chrome with the "Frankenstein" bolt for mounting removable hardtops protruding, but Mazda/Fiat had probably already decided they weren't planning on producing removable hardtops for ND, NE and NF vehicles, and they inserted color matched plastic covers instead.
 

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Take a closer look. They are there on ALL our vehicles (and ND Miatas). They stood out more on earlier generation Miatas, because they were chrome with the "Frankenstein" bolt for mounting removable hardtops protruding, but Mazda/Fiat had probably already decided they weren't planning on producing removable hardtops for ND, NE and NF vehicles, and they inserted color matched plastic covers instead.
I did and you sir, are correct! Don't know how I missed them but the piece is in fact there.
 

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Thanks for offering up some of your time. I was looking previously for auto transmission and differential fluid change intervals/recommendations, plus fuel filter. Does the service manual address these?

Thanks

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oil Change Indicator - Reset
To reset the oil change indicator system (after performing the scheduled maintenance), refer to the following procedure
1)Place the ignition in the ON position. (Do not start the engine.)
2)Fully push the accelerator pedal slowly, three times within 10 seconds.
3)Place the ignition in the OFF/LOCK position.

The oil change light will come on when the computer thinks it's due, but I've been changing the oil and filer in my Dart (1.4 turbo also) every 5,000 miles. I plan to do the same with the 124 unless we do a lot of autocrossing with it. Schedule says every 4,000 mi. for "severe duty."

Strangely, the manual does NOT specify when to change the trans oil and filter, even though it lists the cabin air filter and numerous other checks in the scheduled maint. chart.

In the rear diff drain and fill section, it is specifically stated as not a "scheduled" item to change. The best way to know if it needs it is to check it (I suggest at least once per year), by opening the fill plug and dabbing a little oil on a piece of clean white plastic. If you see swirls of dark color, burnt smell, metal shavings, etc., it's time to change it out. That also works for the trans fluid. If it looks like crap or smells "burnt" change it.
 
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