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Discussion Starter #181 (Edited)
WOW. I only have the driver speaker in, off the factory amp, and I can already bet some people won't even need the sub. The bottom end, with the foam sealing off both the driver and creating an excellent seal between the rear of the cone and the front, is just phenomenal, and it's not even broken in yet! Time to install the passenger side.


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I would be interested in a package sans subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
New speakers weigh 3 pounds 2 ounces, including the brackets. Stock speakers weigh 11 ounces.

Net gain of 2 pounds 7 ounces per side, or approximately 7 pounds total for door speakers.

I have the passenger speaker in as well now. Takes a bit of time to break in, plus I don't have a crossover on them which I should as there's definitely some cone breakup in the high mids. All of that will be taken care of with tuning. For now, I'm just installing parts and hooking them up.

Also, power cables for the amplifier add 3 pounds, 4 ounces of weight.

So far, we're at a net gain of 10 pounds, 2 ounces. For the rest of the world, that's 4.6kg.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
I would be interested in a package sans subwoofer.
Keep in mind, for this system to really shine, the subwoofer will be good to have, and if you drive alone or if your significant other isn't particularly tall, it just makes more sense. The door speakers do add quite a bit of punch and a bit more depth but they're still lacking some presence/authority below 50hz. The midbass is definitely stronger though, which I was hoping for as that's one of the hardest areas to improve in mobile audio. Despite all of the challenges of this cabin, there are some pretty significant benefits in having a small cabin, and the option for open air listening, from a sound quality perspective.

If you decide to go with the package minus the subwoofer, you would only need a 4-ch amplifier which wouldn't be quite as long as the 5-ch. If you wanted to add the sub later, you could pick up a mono amplifier from the same series and distribution block to hook it up, or just get the 5-ch anyway so you'd have that last channel for when/if you ever do add an amplifier. There's no reason why anyone couldn't put this whole kit together in two phases; you'd still have some pretty substantial improvements without the subwoofer, you'd just lack some linear output down below 50hz.

I'll provide tunes for either option so you guys can do with or without the sub.

I REALLY like these speakers though. I'm very glad I went this route.
 

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Are you installing any sound deadening tiles inside the door while you are in there?

Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Are you installing any sound deadening tiles inside the door while you are in there?



Steve.
No. I took the panels off and realized it was already pretty dead. I might take them off again if I'm bored to see if it's worth doing any more but as it is, it's pretty good. Nothing really resonates.

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I’ve always questioned the gap between door panels and speakers. Glad there is a fix. I’d do that mod. But I would want to keep the Bose system as is..just change the door speakers and tweeters,if it was a plug and play set up.

Aloha mike
 

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Discussion Starter #188
I’ve always questioned the gap between door panels and speakers. Glad there is a fix. I’d do that mod. But I would want to keep the Bose system as is..just change the door speakers and tweeters,if it was a plug and play set up.

Aloha mike
I'd have to check what the impedance is on the Bose system and if the tweeters are amplified separately from the doors or if they're on the same signal. If they're on the same signal, you could just buy the component set and install those while retaining factory wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Bit of feedback on these drivers since I've had a chance to use them after break-in. They are MUCH better than stock. I'd wager if you wanted to do a little bit of wiring, you could just swap these in with the passive crossovers as a stock upgrade and get some substantial improvements without an amplifier. The bass is much better, the midbass presence is a whole lot greater, and the clarity has improved. The system would still have a long way to go but I would definitely say it's worth the investment, especially if you want to piece this system together one part at a time.

All that being said, I wouldn't just swap the door spekaers like I did without a crossover; that simply won't sound good. You can definitely tell there's some cone breakup at the top end and that tends to fight with the tweeters and create some harshness in the upper midrange and lower tweeter frequencies.

The bass is much better than stock as I noted before, and it really tightened up after some break-in time, but it tends to fall off toward the higher volumes, taking the stock radio up past level 50 or so. After that, they've given all they've got and you're not getting much more bass out of them. Also, they're only really "acceptable" to me with the top up. Once the top is down, you lose that cabin gain and the bass output drops substantially. Don't get me wrong, it's still much better than stock, but if you're going to blast this sound system with the top down and you want good output across the board, that sub is a must-have. Just no other way around it. Losing cabin gain means you have to make up some sound pressure somewhere, and the best way to do that is with a large driver pushing some air. How exactly that will look, I still have to work on. There may be some carpet cutting involved and since I'm already modifying the tweeter pillars, I have no reservations cutting into the stock carpet to make this look and sound good. I have a great idea for how I plan to do that, which should work pretty well if I can find a good grill for it.

I ordered two sets of RCAs; a high end set with extra shielding that includes its own ground terminal on each end (grounding RCAs helps reduce interference and "whine"), and a cheaper set that you find in most amplifier kits. Both are from American Bass. The reason I ordered two sets that the high end set has significantly longer and larger terminals, and that may be a problem trying to fish these through the passenger side of the car. I assumed we'd be using the better cable so I already factored that into the installation kit estimated cost, but since the cheaper ones were only a few bucks apiece I figured I'd grab those just in case. I also ordered a spool of blue remote wire so that will also be included in the installation kit. Basically the install kit will include everything you need to install this kit. Here's what I've got so far for the install kit:

- Speaker gasket tape for the tweeters, door speaker adapters, and door speakers.
- Two speaker foam rings, with centers. The foam rings are placed on top of the tweeter. The centers are cut up to seal the door speaker adapter where the wires pass through into the inside of the door panel. See picture above.
- 17ft 4 AWG power wire for amp power
- 28" 4 AWG power wire for amp fuse to battery, with hydraulically crimped and heat shrinked terminal.
- 3ft 4 AWG power wire for amp ground, with heat shrinked terminal
- Enough heat shrink butt end connectors for all of the speaker and miniDSP connections.
- Enough velcro to attach the amplifier to the back panel of the trunk
- A tube of loctite blue temp threadlocker for the tweeter mounting ring to ensure it doesn't loosen over time

The RCAs and fuse holder will be sold with the amplifier, speakers, and subwoofer.
 

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XR, without committing you to an unrealistic date, do you have an approximation of when you'll have kits (of one form or another) ready for order and shipping? Just your ballpark guess.

Thanks,
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
XR, without committing you to an unrealistic date, do you have an approximation of when you'll have kits (of one form or another) ready for order and shipping? Just your ballpark guess.



Thanks,

Steve.
I'd estimate kits will be available some time within the next month. I'm getting pretty close here.

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Discussion Starter #194
Any updates?
Life has been getting in the way. First came me having to move my office to the basement due to us needing the bedroom upstairs (3 kids, 3 bedrooms upstairs). That took a while as I had to spend 3 weeks building the desk for it in my free time. Then badly spraining 3 of my toes, so I wasn't about to doing much work, then a spring full of nothing but rain made it difficult to get anything done.

The sub box just got done and is on its way to me now, so I'll be able to test fit that hopefully this week. I'll get this done this summer for sure, as long as nothing else gets in the way.
 

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Life has been getting in the way. First came me having to move my office to the basement due to us needing the bedroom upstairs (3 kids, 3 bedrooms upstairs). That took a while as I had to spend 3 weeks building the desk for it in my free time. Then badly spraining 3 of my toes, so I wasn't about to doing much work, then a spring full of nothing but rain made it difficult to get anything done.

The sub box just got done and is on its way to me now, so I'll be able to test fit that hopefully this week. I'll get this done this summer for sure, as long as nothing else gets in the way.
Thanks for the update. I am very interested to see how the Sub box works out. To me spending time and $$ on improving the audio is only worth it if a subwoofer is included. I have considered utilizing the Bose sub enclosure with a 4 ohm woofer and about 100 watts in my non Bose Abarth but I doubt it will move enough air to satisfy me. An 8” or 10” sub in the compact enclosure you have should be perfect. Looking forward to future updates.

Thanks for documenting your project!
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Thanks for the update. I am very interested to see how the Sub box works out. To me spending time and $$ on improving the audio is only worth it if a subwoofer is included. I have considered utilizing the Bose sub enclosure with a 4 ohm woofer and about 100 watts in my non Bose Abarth but I doubt it will move enough air to satisfy me. An 8” or 10” sub in the compact enclosure you have should be perfect. Looking forward to future updates.

Thanks for documenting your project!
You'd be surprised how good of an improvement you can make with just front door speakers. It's a huge difference over stock. I've been driving around with just the front doors replaced, having done nothing else but run cabling to prepare for other component installs, and I've been very impressed with these speakers. I'm producing some pretty low frequencies with authority I didn't expect to be able to. Granted, there's a limit to how loud you'll be able to go and still hear good bass authority, especially with the top down, but it's a very worthwhile improvement nonetheless.

I still think a subwoofer completes the whole package and gives you the full range of sound at any volume you want, whether the top is up or down, and will be highly recommending this system in that configuration, but those who decide against the sub (or plan to add it at a later time) will definitely not be disappointed.
 

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XR, along with the door speakers, you've also installed the windshield pillar tweeters, haven't you?

Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #198
XR, along with the door speakers, you've also installed the windshield pillar tweeters, haven't you?

Steve.
Not yet. Those aren't going in until later.

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I'm also very interested in buying the kits! I think I'll purchase first only the speakers, and in a later date, the sub. I'll be following this thread to try and buy one kit as soon as it's ready!
 

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I am interested in some kind of audio kit as well. I am ready for an upgrade and I thank Xtreme for paving the way.
 
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