The 150,000 miles is because the multiair is essentially a single cam engine, so there is less stress on the timing belt than in a DOHC configuration. The intake valves are solenoid operated.

The time? I have no opinion there.

However in real world experience a few people have experienced timing belt failure closer to 130k miles. So I would probably plan it somewhere before that. It IS an interference engine despite rumors to the contrary.

 

The UK owners manual states timing belt change at 6 yearly intervals, not sure where you got 150,000 miles from ?

 

The US manual...

 

Hi @napastar , I agree, the recommended interval is way too long. (And that the belt is made of material that would deteriorate with time , heat and wear). I would be alot more comfortable with time and miles that are half of that stated in the owners manual, or something like 5 or 6 years, 75,000 mi., whichever comes first. My opinion. Best, s

 

Do we have any facts or data to show the manual is wrong?
I am not sure if a "gut feelings" overrides the manufacturer's engineers...

 

Do we have any facts or data to show the manual is wrong?
I am not sure if a "gut feelings" overrides the manufacturer's engineers...

I'm the guy that would rather spend a little bit of money and be safe, knowing my car is very well maintained (and maybe we'll over maintained) than to push the limits and end up with a really expensive engine job to do. Back a few years ago BMW said you only need to change your oil and filter every 15,000 miles ( ya, right!). Well, they walked that one back after oil filters started coming apart and blocking oil passages, oil was turning black and burnt, and engines were coming undone . . . So people saved alot on that, didn't they? So, I stand by what I said above . . I'll spend a little every now and again rather than a whole pile at once. s

 

As a reference, on my Volvo, they say to replace the belt (interference engine, mind you, so VERY IMPORTANT) every 8 years regardless of mileage. I go with every 6 per my Volvo guy because I like my pistons and valves to never "meet". This falls under the same category of the "lifetime fill" of the gear oil in my old M Roadster...changed every 2 years.

 

UK owners manual.......

 

Conditions must be better in the UK....LOL....Weird.

 

Or worse, considering they do the belt change sooner here ...

 

Reminds me of my B5 Passat GLX with the Audi 30v V6... Factory recommended interval was 120k miles...

I started hearing a grinding sound up front, and instantly became petrified of timing belt failure, so I opted to replace it at ~60k miles. It turns out that the sound was actually a bad bearing in my alternator, but glad I changed the belt anyway because the main tensioner's bearing was, in fact, failing and tiny ball bearings were everywhere under the belt cover. Too close for comfort...

My Spider is only 3 years old, but I'm at 80k+ miles and am already planning a belt change in the very near future. Trying to figure out at this point if I can do it myself, or if it requires special tools like my VW. Back then, I had a good friend who was a head mechanic at a VW dealer, so he loaned me the special tools to do it myself. I have no such access to special Fiat tools though.

 

The timing tool kit is ~$125-150 and add a pulley wrench for another $25. A full timing/water pump kit is $125ish from Mopar. The initial in-situ change will be more difficult but with a few bracket modifications around the vacuum pump and A/C, it becomes easier the next time.

 

Another couple of tips when doing this job:

Check the condition of the tensioner stud, it does not come in the kit but I think a new nut does. I ordered a handful of studs for a few bucks each when I ordered the kit to have on hand. You want the rotation to be smooth when setting the tension.

Expanding on smooth rotation, the end of the camshaft and the inside of the pulley will need to be cleaned and polished so it does not bind AT ALL with the bolt installed but not tight yet. This is where everything is actually set. With the belt in place, the tensioner is rotated until the notches align and tighten the nut. That pulls the belt snug and the ONLY part that can rotate into place, the cam pulley. Then the pulley is held fast with a wrench while torquing the bolt to hold that spot. If the pulley binds on the cam, the tension could be set but the pulley didn't fully rotate CCW. When doing the rotation test, it will be off and then you start over. So clean it up front and you won't have an issue later.

 

Maybe dumb-ish question, but I’d the 124 engine and interference engine? When the timing belt breaks, can it destroy the engine, or will it just leave you stranded?

 

Yes, it is an interference engine, and a timing belt (and/or tensioner) failure will lead to what is called a "catastrophic engine failure". The degree to just how bad the destruction is would depend on, for one thing, the RPM the engine is turning at the time of failure. Personally, I have not taken a 1.4 MultiAir engine apart after a timing belt failure, but other engines I have seen with a timing belt failure could be repaired under certain circumstances ( including the original classic 124 Spiders of the 60's - 80's vintage Lampredi engines). Others have been completely destroyed - pistons, bent rods, blocks torn up - really ugly! In every case it is expensive. Hence, I recommend replacing the timing belt, tensioner w/bearings, and the water pump kit sooner rather than later. Just my opinion. Best, s

 

I changed the belt in my previous Ford Focus at 180.000km, and 12years, and it came out really good. This belts are very good!

 

My German manual states the same service interval as the British. I have two older Fiats (1998 and 1999) with interference engines also, though they are DOHC and have some more power. For these cars the service interval for all the belts is 5 years only. These cars are well documented with a lot of enthousiast clubs. One of the two main reasons for engine failure on these cars is that one of the auxiliary belts snaps and then hits the timing belt. As a result the timing belt snaps or skips a few teeth and the valves smash the pistons. So most owners change every 5 years even though it's costly / time consuming, the engine has to be partly removed. What I don't know if the design of the 124 is better so an issue with the aux belt won't damage the cambelt. And a reason for the aux belt to snap is oil dripping on it for a long time, chances for a 5 year old car that this happens is much smaller than for a 25-30 year old car. So concluding for the 124: I will replace every 6 to 7 years.

I found this by the way:
Timing Belt Failure! | Dodge Dart Forum (dodge-dart.org)
My 124 is not at home at the moment so can't check if it's exactly the same engine. The engine has been in lots of cars I would expect (Fiat Bravo, Lancia Delta, Alfa Guiliette, Fiat 500), some googling doesn't lead to horror stories.

 

I have a Timing Belt and Water Pump change due in November when the A124 will be 6 years old. My friend's indie garage will do the labour, and I'll buy the parts from TMC Motorsport in Belfast. Arthur's Service Plan is a great idea if you have a competent Dealer.... Unfortunately mine could not even get spark plugs ordered on time for my 3rd year service. The last two have been at my friend's garage, I know what they've done, the parts are genuine, the price is reasonable.

 

As in all things in life, results can be varied !!! I just happen to have a decent family run Fiat franchised dealer 20 miles from home. I've been using them for 12+ years on both my 124 and my wife's 500. Never had an issue with that dealer. The same cannot be said about a national main dealer I once used..... NEVER again !!!!

 

Given the current rate of annual miles added to my Abarth it's going take 16 to 18 years just to reach to reach the 70k mark on the clock. So I'm thinking the 5 - 6 year interval is a good target date for replacing the timing belt.

 

Wimps all. My 1972 Fiat 124 Spider needed belt replacement every 30K miles IIRC. In 100K miles it would have been replaced 3 times!

As a comparo, my 2002 Miata calls for every 100K for replacement I believe, but not being an interference engine one can live on the wild side!

 

Yeah, I sold my 2003 MX-5 at 120,000 miles, and the buyer asked if I changed the belt. I told him it didn't break, so I didn't change it.

 

Funny you should mention it because I’ve just booked my 4th year service and the timing belt/water pump/engine coolant are getting done as part of that. What the UK manual actually sais is that for dusty areas or demanding use replacement at 4 years or 60,000 km whichever comes sooner is recommended. Things are quite harsh up here in the frozen wastelands of northern Scotland so don’t want to take any chances on a snapped belt.

Getting transmission fluid and new plugs done on top of standard 4 year service stuff because I want to keep things tip top.

All in with MOT I’ve been quoted £800 (incl. VAT).

 

Blimey Arthur! you must know how to bargain. Granted I did call Stoneacre rather than go in person and was put through to the nearest local Dealer and was quoted £1629 for 3 services - year 6 ,7 and 8. Essentially the cam and aux belts, spark plugs, air filter, brake fluid etc and 2 oil and filter services. I know my car is coming up for 6 years old, but they must be charging £130 an hour if not more. Certainly an offer I can and will be refusing. LOL

 

I did not have to haggle or bargain...... this is Fiat/Mopar product supplied to the dealer for Fiat owners whose cars are under 5 years old. I guess Stoneacre don't want to provide the product ?...... perhaps try another dealer ?

 

😂 bloody hellfire I’ve got an office in Newport. If I buy it from LC motors I can go to any fiat dealer with it right Arthur?

 

Modern EDPM belts are pretty amazing. But I’m going to change mine closer to 100k. I spotted that 150k in the USA book. Yeah that’s too long for me.

 

I have a 1985 Pininfarina Azzurra (Fiat 124) replaced the timing belt last year at 75,000 miles. The belt looked great no cracks or missing parts. Who knows if belts were made better back then or now. I also have a 2017 Abarth 124 guess which one I drive the most.

 

Hi @rieg1 , I'm thinking that, yes, the belts are made of better material today - but . . . I had a '71 124 Spider, and went to work as a mechanic with the local Fiat dealer in '72. We were recommending replacing the timing belt in all Fiats at 24 months or 25k miles, whichever comes first, for good reason. As I remember, by 30k miles cars were coming in with bent valves or worse. If the belt failed on startup - usually teeth were ripped of at the crank gear - the repair wasn't usually too bad. We replaced valves, guides and seals. Pistons were usually ok. But if the belt failed at speed, well . . . it was what we call "a catastrophic failure". s

 

Not sure if the deal covers Abarth ? (It's a seperate brand in the UK). I use LC Motors Fiat, Newport. Ask for Gianni, tell him Mr Rowlands sent you (Silver 124). Your car must be under 5 years old. I don't think it's transferrable so you'll need to LC Motors to do the work. Let me know how it goes 👍

 

Hey Steve I bought the car when it was five years old and 50,000 miles on the clock a caved in oil pan and a broken off oil pump. I fixed all that and put new bearings in just in case. Turns out it was a great buy at 2500 bucks it's worth ten times that now and I've enjoyed every mile. As for the timing belt I am glad I changed it. As for the 2017 I would like to trade it for one with less miles and more options so no worries about the timing belt on that one.

 

Hi @rieg1 , very familiar with the "caved in oil pan and broken off oil pump" scenario! At about 22 years old, my interests were not limited to English and Italian sports cars. I was driving my '71 across a parking lot when a really beautiful young woman in a short skirt and tight blouse caught my eye. No, wasn't watching where I was going, my eyes were fixed on a pair of exquisite legs. Crash, hit a curb head on, and collapsed that low slung oil pan. I had my car towed back to the shop, epoxied the broken off piece of engine block, managed to get a new oil pump screwed on with some slightly longer bolts as I recall, and a new oil pan also helped secure things. I drove the car another couple of years before I traded it in on a new 124 Sport Coupe. 😀 Best, s. P.S.: Very nice that you have a Classic 124 Spider that is serving you well, as well as a modern 124 Spider. 👍 Happy Spidering!

 

Gonna resurrect this as I just booked in for my 30,000 mile service at 4 years old. Now, I tend to service either annually or by mileage, whichever comes up first with regards basics like oil changes, etc. I usually follow manufacturers schedule with items like timing belts but a bit earlier to have a safety margin.

When talking to the indie I am using (Northern Alfa Performance) who have a very good reputation within the Abarth 500 community, they have advised timing belt change at 4 years at a cost of £385. They say they do this on all Abarth vehicles regardless of model from experience. The only reason I could see for this is a history of degradation over time of the timing belts in Abarth cars but I am not convinced I need to get this done.

On a different but relative subject pertaining to the service covered in another thread they have also told me (and they are the 2nd Abarth indie to tell me this) that the stock spark plug gap of .028" is absolutely fine, and setting this at .023" - .024" risks a weak spark and possible misfires. Abarth engines are fine with spark plug gap as set from the manufacturer and if anything you would adjust them down later if required to maintain this gap. Now, that's 2 Abarth indies who have worked on T-Jet and Multiair engines for many years across the Abarth range vs. what people are speculating on here as first time Abarth owners.

Thoughts on the timing belt and spark plug gap relative to the above please!