Has the car had a tune or has the exhaust been modified ?

 

Has the car had a tune or has the exhaust been modified ?

Nope, nothing yet.

 

You might try a different OBD II scanner tool.

 

What caused it to enter the 'Not Ready' status in the first place? Disconnecting the battery?

 

Since I got the car used. Always been “not ready”. Never had an inspection sticker.

 

Since you got the car used, it's definitely possible the previous owner had a tune on it that was not removed. One step might be to have the dealer reflash the stock ECU firmware just in case. Just FYI make sure they don't flash the radio if you ever plan on doing android auto/apple carplay update.

 

Dealer

 

This should be a cause of discussion with the dealer. Especially the fact that he sold a vehicle without issuing a proper Inspection certificate. In my State (New York) , a private sale doesn’t require the seller to obtain a new Inspection (although when registering, DMV will issue a 10 day temp in needed) but a purchase through a dealer mandates that the seller, when registering a vehicle, must also ensure that the vehicle is properly safety/ emission inspected.
Have you since approached the selling dealership and inquired about this issue?

 

That is indeed a thought that there maybe is a tune on it and those monitors are turned off and thats why they wont ready up.
have a CEL on?

 

That is indeed a thought that there maybe is a tune on it and those monitors are turned off and thats why they wont ready up.
have a CEL on?

Nope. Never had a check engine light.

 

Nope. Never had a check engine light.

Presence of a flash tune in and of itself will not cause a check engine light. Indeed, if the catalyst monitor is turned off, the sole purpose of that is to prevent the engine light.

That said, a deleted catalyst sensor will show up as "Not Present" rather than "Not Ready", which may or may not cause a fail depending on your local requirements.

However, other changes in custom tunes can throw things off just enough to cause the readiness monitors to not clear, even though it doesn't set a check engine light. As I said above, the lack of an engine light doesn't mean that your car isn't tuned. One of the common issues with tunes on these cars is they can prevent the readiness monitors from setting properly. If all else fails, I would still recommend having the dealer at least check the flash counter to see if there are signs of it being tuned.

 

I brought this car to the deal a couple years ago to update the software and they told me to drive the car to ready the monitors.

 

I brought this car to the deal a couple years ago to update the software and they told me to drive the car to ready the monitors.

Perfect, you made sure that base was covered.

It may just take longer than that 250 miles. And honestly with the heat lately, it might not even be reading "cold" driving cycles properly. I know my 500 Abarth isn't doing its normal cold starts when sitting in the sun, it starts up and almost immediately goes into closed loop because the engine is so warm from just sitting in the sun. My 124 is probably doing that as well, but it has a quieter exhaust so it's harder to tell when it goes from open to closed loop.

Back on topic, with that in mind, something in your drive cycle isn't hitting one or more of the requirements the PCM wants to see - or there's a bad reading. Most likely it's the drive cycle, a lot of people have found that it takes much longer than the expected cycle to get everything to set, because very specific conditions have to be met.

 

Perfect, you made sure that base was covered.

It may just take longer than that 250 miles. And honestly with the heat lately, it might not even be reading "cold" driving cycles properly. I know my 500 Abarth isn't doing its normal cold starts when sitting in the sun, it starts up and almost immediately goes into closed loop because the engine is so warm from just sitting in the sun. My 124 is probably doing that as well, but it has a quieter exhaust so it's harder to tell when it goes from open to closed loop.

Back on topic, with that in mind, something in your drive cycle isn't hitting one or more of the requirements the PCM wants to see - or there's a bad reading. Most likely it's the drive cycle, a lot of people have found that it takes much longer than the expected cycle to get everything to set, because very specific conditions have to be met.

GREAT NEWS! Fuel system and O2 sensor randomly cleared when I started her up today. Just the EVAP is left. I tried driving with max ac to create a high load but it still is not cleared. Best way to clear the EVAP?

 

I have the tork tune I found that I was not able to get catalyst and evap to set for weeks. Reflashed stock and catalyst set in like 2 drives.

Where I am you can pass with evap not ready, they just hook up a vacuum to your gas cap.

 

I read somewhere else this is probably common to every flash tuner, though I haven't thoroughly investigated personally. Something about modifications to the max torque maps of I recall correctly. Someone with EC might be able to collaborate. I have been curious actually, but not gone out of my way yet to ask someone with EC if their car shows not ready catalyst forever too.

 

Hi @S1C , there was another person on this forum that had a really hard time getting his EVAP monitor to pass (I do not recall which thread, or who now - I would have to search) - but in an effort to help, I reset all of my monitors and had to drive approx. 1600 miles before my EVAP monitor passed. (All others passed before that, and I updated once or twice during the process). That was with a stock tune on my '18 Abarth. The evaporitive system controls on our car are complicated, and different from most makes. All of that having been said, all bets are off once an aftermarket tune is programmed in, so I agree with the others here that making sure you have a stock tune is #1. After that, @madfiat would be correct - it's probably gonna take you more than 250 miles to get all of the monitors to pass. I suggest you Google "OBD Drive Cycle" and read several articles to see and understand exactly what is involved - it requires a very specific driving pattern that varies somewhat between manufacturers and models to get every monitor to run. After a related repair I will clear codes and test drive my customer's car two drive cycles up to approx. 20 miles (depending on what code was set), monitor engine data, and make sure the Check Engine light does not illuminate before returning to the customer. When I return the car to my customer, I explain that these are not "OBD Drive Cycle" test drives, only test drives to verify the car is operating properly during the time I drove it, because doing an OBD Drive Cycle is almost completely impossible to do in a reasonable amount of time - and within the time that the customer wants his car back before he starts screaming at me for taking too long! (I understand - he wants his car back, albeit fixed). I also explain that in some cases like intermittent issues that we cannot duplicate on demand or such as the EVAP or O2 / Cat monitors not running for example, that they may need to bring the car back for further diagnostics / repair. This is the reality of it all. Good Luck, ask more questions, keep us updated! Best, s