Life's too short not to mod. Go for it. First off the bat should be the GFB DV+. You'll never look back!! Good luck. EC and other vendors has a bunch of goodies that make this car come to life..... enjoy.

 

Section 1 - Engine mods: EC tune and V4 air filter.

GFB diverter valve fitted when thr car was 2 weeks old - Sept 2016. As others have said a nice and easy mod with positive benefits. I bought it via Ebay - UK supplier £96 I think. Excellent service and easy install.

Now the BIG BITS;

Euro Compulsion +Drive installed. No problems and it has transformed the car. I have driven a UK 124 Abarth and last month I drove an Abarth 595 Competizione and my car even after only 50 miles feels much better: better meaning faster (I think) but more that the power just keeps on coming. It gets to max revs very quickly. So far this as exceeded my expectations.

Why EC and not other tunes that are available in the UK? EC have a very good track record and service delivery second to none. I was not interested in a percentage increase, typically 10 -20% which would get me to UK Abarth levels of power. If I was going to do this I wanted to change from UK fiat (140 BHP) to Abarth plus, which this tune will do either as phase 1 or phase 2 which will be available in the future. It doesn't create an Abarth car per se: there is no sport button nore does it change the steering feel which are within the Abarth standard system. But, and this is a big but, it is still a very cost effective performance improvement - I am well on the way to creating my ideal 124 for a lot less than Fiat want for an Abarth spec car.

Euro Compulsion V4 air filter system.
I used the same logic as with the tune and EC. I ordered them both together. Delivery from EC to UK was very good - but delays in customs and delivery within the UK took a long time! ( see my post on the EC tune thread) .

If you are thinking of importing from EC to the UK a few things I experienced.
1. The US tracking system is active until it goes into UK customs - it then says packet delivered. A few emails to Chris confirmed it was a problem at the UK end. Once it clears Customs, Post Office and Parcel Force then issue their own tracking numbers/ system and the whole process starts again - making payment for customs / import duties and handling charges. I still cannot understand how they arrived at the charges I had to pay. Total cost to me for the tune and V4 shipped to my door was £1052. Not cheap but I believe these are top quality products which will last the life of the car.

Fitting the V4. As others have reported it is very easy. I changed one part. I added a closed cell rubber block between the inlet pipe and the battery - it gives a little bit of support. So far no problems and I am very pleased with my investment.

Danny

 

.... I still cannot understand how they arrived at the charges I had to pay. Total cost to me for the tune and V4 shipped to my door was £1052. Not cheap but I believe these are top quality products which will last the life of the car.

...

Holy ****. Are you **** kidding?! that's over $1300US! That is, quite simply, ridiculous!

 

Well if their $1200 w/o shipping, at $1300 including shipping and taxes etc I'd say that was a good deal

 

Ah, I thought it was for just the V4...hah, hah.

 

If anyone’s interested, I’m going to be in Scotland for Christmas - I can bring a EC reflash unit over from the US in my laptop bag and mail it on...

 

Engine Mods "Catch can"

Fitting the V4 gives space for a much neater postion for an oil catch can - others on this forum have done this before.

I had no prior knowledge of catch cans so I had to learn not only the theory but also find a location that looks like a factory fitted 'original' item. Many thanks to the posting by Greg and others on this and Fiat 500 forums.

I used the same aluminium can most of the specialist suppliers use but all the other parts came from my garage bits box or a local supplier.

The hose is Gates 19mm ID. This fits perfectly for 3 out of the 4 connections. Rather than have a junction piece and larger ID hose I used an adjustable reamer to 'slightly open out' the bore until a snug fit onto the 4th connection.

The can is attached to an aluminium plate which is attched to the body using the original filter housing locating nut.

I changed the baffle in the can from one side to the other so that all hoses now follow a natural run.

I think I have achieved my aim of a catch can that looks if Fiat fitted it.

Thanks Danny

 

I think I have achieved my aim of a catch can that looks if Fiat fitted it.

True, apart from those clunky old Jubilee clips, maybe you could fit some OE-looking Clic clips?

 

looks good @Newod I plan on installing mine in the same spot. (I've got to fab a mounting plate like you did). Agree with @azzura I plan on reusing the factory clips... maybeClic clips to see if I can make it "look" factoryish. Although the V4.1 defeats thats...haha

I've also been waiting for some adapters to come in. (19mm to 3/8 bung) Changing the oil can too...as I wasn't thrilled with all the small metal shaving I found in it when I opened it to inspect the construction.

 

Section 2 Changes to boot ( trunk) area.

We all have different expectations and requirements. The following are based on mine.

The standard car comes with tyre repair kit located in the main part of the boot/trunk.

My logic is if I have a problem I will need easy access a basic tool kit / first aid kit / high viz jacket.
If I have a problem with a wheel/tyre I am unlikely to undertake a roadside repair - "call a man who can".
I would try to fix something which is falling off - zip ties / wire etc.
If I need to add oil - It would be a good idea to have the correct spec oil in the car not all petrol stations have 5W40 oil.

With this in mind I have reconfigured my boot/trunk.

1. Tyre kit relocated into the space reserved for the not supplied jack in the wing area. This also houses the tow hooks. If you need this equipment you will have time to empty the boot before the recovery truck arrives.

2. Tool kit - my own pack and spare oil stored in the other wing area but not behind the trim cover and high viz jacket - easy to get at.

3. I have added a false floor. Below the floor fits my suit carrier - perfect fit. Then 2 cases fit side by side without squashing the suit carrier. There is still space arround the edges for other bits and bobs you have on a road trip. The false floor is supported at the bumper end by my 'warning triangle' - again another item I will need but have time to empty the boot to get it out.

I have tried 2 other versions of this solution and this is the best so far. One piece of advice, putting stuff in the wing area needs to be held very firmly! I tried velco ties in version 1 and the tyre kit came loose - not a good idea.

Food for thought - perhaps.
Danny

 

Can you take your car to a dyno to see the results of the EC remap?

Would love to see them!

 

I've moved my tyre kit and towing eyebolt to the storage bin behind the drivers seatback. My top up oil lives in the garage but if I went on a long trip I'd put it behind the passenger seat. Clears the space in the boot and you can get at it by tipping the seat forward.

 

Purchase and fitting a turbo blanket.

Due to various family issues, I haven't done much or even driven my Spider for 4 months.
BUT I can now devote time to driving and using this fabulous car.

Latest addition is a turbo blanket. I have used the information and experiences posted by others to conclude:
1. because I intend keeping the car for a very long time, it will help preserve parts in the engine bay.
2. On balance the PTP blanket seems to be the best for me.

Well this has been the best 'overseas' purchase by far.
PTPturboblankets.com dispatched the part within 12 hrs of my order. It had left the USA within 2 days
and only spent 3 working days in UK customs - something of a record for me.

It gets better the $184 cost including shipping plus UK VAT and customs charges came out at £148 - a result.
Many thanks to PTP who saved me about £25.

Fitting is very easy, 15 mins if you stop for a coffee!

Hope to take it for a run in the morning to let it 'heat cycle'.

Other UK owners, this is a very easy purchase and fitting.

Danny

 

It's a fantastic turbo blanket. I've had mine on for more than half a year and it still looks brand new.

 

Any chance of running your car on a dyno?

 

Hi Bertie,
Not easy. I'm in the far west of Wales, the nearest 4 wheel dyno is in Somerset 140 + miles away. I am new to Turbo mods and I
am following the 'dyno debate' between Greg (EC) and Shiv with interest - it's all gone quiet, I wonder why?

At the moment I can feel and appreciate a significant improvement in the car - power and more importantly driveability. It is faster and better to drive than the Abarth I test drove a year ago. The salesman who sold me my car , ran a UK Abarth for 6 months as a company/demonstrator car. He has driven my car and confirms it is faster and better to drive than the factory Abarth - with a significant cost saving!

So in my view I have achieved the primary aim: to get the 140BHP UK Fiat to the 170BHP Abarth spec with a tried and tested company even though they are in the USA. The customer support and technical knowledge of EuroComplusion is significantly better than my experiences with the company that I think you used.

I see there is a Youtube video of a UK car on a dyno, I think this is your car? But no indication of numbers or actual gains.

So do I pay £100 plus for a dyno to tell me what?

I am watching this space.
Danny

 

Hi Danny,

I love your Mods, nice blog, great work! I've also added some EC Mods to my UK Fiat 124 Spider (which really do make our lovely Spider even more awesome). During my modding journey I upgraded from the EC V1 induction to the EC V4 induction kit.

So if anyone wants to join us, modifying the UK version of this great car, I have a Eurocompulsion V1 Induction kit with AFE Power Magnum Pro Flow Dry S Air Filter sat on the shelf in my shed. I would be happy to give it away to anyone in the UK who wants to join the "making the UK version of the Fiat 124 Spider even more awesome club"

 

Sent you a PM! Looking at options foR tuning here in the UK. With the EC tune do you need to do anything differently as it’s a UK engine?

 

Hi

The UK cars work really well with the EC components.

The tunes are fabulous. I purchased the ODB2 plug-in version and it works fine with UK spec. The Phase-1 makes the car come alive (and out perform the standard Arbarth) and phase-2 tune is just .......awesome

There are two things that can be a slight issues for us in the UK, that's the fact that our cars are rhd and that UK customs add in about 3-4 week delay from anything arriving from the US, together with seemingly random import charges for us to pay.

The only rhd issues have been with the installation of:
1. The EC Catch-can. This is a super easy fix, you just mount it in a slightly different place as the UK cars have air bags under the bonnet (to help protect pedestrians in an accident). The mounting point suggested has explosive bolts for these air-bags (so don't mount it there), I just mounted mine a few inches down using an existing earthing bolt.
2. The EC upgraded Inter-cooler pipe needs to be modified to fit passed our steering rack. EC are already on the case and will produce a rhd version soon. So I'm waiting for this update before installing mine.

Here are a list of my mods - all no issues with UK car:

1. V1 Induction kit (now replaced with V4). The V1 (with AFE air filter) will be on its way to @rsmagee for free, enjoy!
2. V4 induction kit
3. Catch-can
4. Euro+ drive tuning system (phase 1 and 2 work well). I'm now back on phase 1 as I am waiting for the updated IC piping for rhd cars
5. GFB DV+ (I didn't really notice any real world performance improvement - but it is a much higher quality component than the standard one)
6. 4C coils (you don't needs these at the moment, I just getting mine ready for any future upgrades)
7. Updated the infotainment system (so you can use touch-screen when driving)

I would recommend the Euro+ drive system, and not the clone ECU as once you have the unit you get software updates via the EC online Portal. This avoids any more delays by UK customs.

I have also ordered the Pro-pedal - which is currently held in UK customs.......can't wait for it to arrive.
I will be ordering the EC upgraded turbo as soon as it's available.

I would strongly recommend the ODB2 tuning system - tit transforms the car and has given me absolutely no problems. The car pick up is transformed, you get far more mid-range push and it's really smooth

Phil

 

Thanks so much!

Great info. Think il start saving for the EC tune. Done a lot of VWs with OBD tuning but very new to Fiat.

Did the DV+ stright away as I have had those rubbish valves fail on all my old GTIs. Like you I haven’t noticed a difference but it’s nice to know there is a good part in there.

 

Like to fit the V2 to mine but wondering what the insurance implications are when you modify from standard be it this or even brake calipers like Wilwoods Anyone whos done this in the UK, what sort of greif did you get from your insurance provider when you came to insure the 124 again

 

UK insurance - if mods on car.



Hi,
I enquired with my insurers, Liverpool and Victoria, before I did any changes.
I was surprised how easy it was. Phone call - each mod added £20 to the premium.
Only 1 charge for all engine mods - so tune, V4, DV+, turbo blanket all for £20.
Suspension £20, brakes yet to do £20, etc.
Danny

 

Front strut brace and new support panel


BACKGROUND
If you have a UK spec Fiat it doesn't come with a front strut brace - only the Abarth has this.
The FIAT accessory part looks much better than the black Abarth version but at £650 is overpriced,
but is available in the UK.
I couldn't find any other Fiat specific ones available in the UK.
Mazda ones and some Fiat ones can be imported from the US and Japan - customs delays and costs are a consideration.

WHY FIT ONE
I fully understand that the 124 isn't a true strut suspension therefore a 'strut brace' is mainly a body support, but it would look the part

I have researched the Mazda options for over a year, recognising that the right hand bracket looking in the engine bay, would need slight modification to fit the 124. I have now bought and fitted one.

I have gone with the just launched IL Motorsports front upper brace. I bought this from MX5parts.co.uk who I have used before. It came with the factory (Mazda) support panel, next day delivery all for £250.

The support panel would take about 30 -40 mins to fit. The modifications to the RH bracket would take about 20 mins and the fitting of the main strut brace about 15 mins. I took longer because I took a number of photos and did a number trial fits to make sure it all cleared. If there was interest I could try to do a 'tutorial' of sorts.

Overall I am pleased with the result and 'over the moon' about the price.
Danny

 

Tutorial please !!!

As I am thinking to replace my Abarth one to a flat ally one ..... moreso for under bonnet bling than anything else

I have had heard that the Mazda ones need a little "encouragement" to fit

Do you know if the Mazda support panel is required on an Abarth

Cheers

 

I will start to draft a tutorial - thanks for asking.

The Mazda /Miata bars fit OK - it's the RH bracket than need modification to the support pins/holes for the water tank and the wiring support. Not a big job.

The support panels for a strut brace are the same for Mazda and Fiat/Abarth cars. If you already have a strut bar it will work with both Mazda and Fiat bars.

Danny

 

If I buy the support panel for the strut brace for my Lusso, does it include mounting hardware?

 

Hi Shark, the 'factory' support panel for a strut brace reuses the existing support panel set screws (8 off 10mm).

The nuts ( 12mm) needed to attach the strut bar to the new panel come with the strut bar kit ie Bar and brackets for the top of the strut mounts RH and LH.

Danny

 

Thanks. I've considered adding one to my Lusso.

 

Front strut

Danny is there any reason you didn't choose the one from TMC motorsport for the 124? https://www.tmcmotorsport.com/product/5317

 

Danny is there any reason you didn't choose the one from TMC motorsport for the 124? https://www.tmcmotorsport.com/product/5317

Hi Darren, the cusco bar was the one I was going with. I used TMC motorsports for my Eibach springs and it wasn't a very inspiring 1st purchase! I will send you a PM if you want the details.

So, once the IL Motorsport (made in Germany) bar became available with supply here in the UK, the delays/costs of shipping a cusco bar from Japan didn't stack-up.

I have bought other parts from MX5parts and there service has been 5 star every time, and will continue to use them.

Danny

 

Cheers Danny


I'll follow your lead, I have used MX5 Parts they are very good.


So the MX5 strut support panel fits the 124 fine I take it?


How much lower did you go with the springs?

 

Fitting Eibach sway bars - Anti-roll bars.

Not posted for as while, so thought I would get make a start on update on mods.
I have had the Eibach uprated anti-roll bars for a month but 'took the plunge at the weekend'.

I watched all the Youtube videos, instruction guides and Jowster's posting and came to the conclusion there was no one right way. So I just started, taking my time. My notes may help, may not work for you, but worked for me in my limited garage (shop). This is a RHD car.
How difficult was it? If fitting a GFB+ valve is 1 and a full engine & gearbox rebuild is 10, then the front bar is 5 and the rear is 1.
Time taken
1. Jacking up the car, removing wheels, and splash panels under the front wings (fenders) 75 mins
2. Identifying and removing other 'bits' and extracting standard front bar 60 mins.
3. Sliding new bar into the car 20 mins.
4. Refitting removed 'bits', splash panels and wheels. 90 mins

What did I do?
1. Remove wheels, and splash panels. Disconnect existing bar end links and bush brackets. as per general instuctions.
2. I removed the two bolts holding the steering rack but not the steering column - I need to move the rack about 1/8 inch to get clearance for the bar to go over the rack.
3. Remove additional small plastic panel near the horn, disconnect and then move out of the way the horn and bracket, intercooler mounting, and bottom hose connection, earth strap and brake wiring. ALSO I found I needed to remove the 'box' that is attached to the radiator, this made all the difference to getting the bar out without removing the steering rack.
4. Getting the standard bar out is a 'exercise in trial and error' I found a little liquid soap on the bushes enabled me to 'pull' them between the subframe and the body - most people cut them off.
5. Putting the new bar in is not too bad. It is heavier but without the bushes fitted there is a little more clearance. Just take your time. Put everything back on - job done.
6. Rear bar is a 40 min job - nothing you can get wrong.

Quick test drive and all is OK.
Nothing broke, everything came off and went back on. Don't know why I thought it was too hard for me!
Danny.