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I went ahead and ordered the door speakers, door wiring harnesses, door mount adapters and foam rings, and the (not for current use) interface. That way in the meantime I can enjoy the upgraded speakers on the current setup. I may wait on the rest and follow along with your progress. Kicked around the idea of a dsp with more channels to add rear speakers in the cubbies as well, but that would require a bigger (or two) amp, and would require my car to have a different “tune” on the dsp. Plus, while I wouldn’t be concerned about putting subs behind the seats, I’m afraid I may end up with a distorted sound if I put mids back there. Tweeters could be mounted behind the headrests and powered down, but facing the mids at the back of the seat certainly isn’t ideal... @XtremeRevolution have you heard anything about the sub enclosures? Would certainly be easier than fabbing my own, but I have done it in the past for my SPL competition vehicles, so I suppose I could if necessary.
 

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I went ahead and ordered the door speakers, door wiring harnesses, door mount adapters and foam rings, and the (not for current use) interface. That way in the meantime I can enjoy the upgraded speakers on the current setup. I may wait on the rest and follow along with your progress. Kicked around the idea of a dsp with more channels to add rear speakers in the cubbies as well, but that would require a bigger (or two) amp, and would require my car to have a different “tune” on the dsp. Plus, while I wouldn’t be concerned about putting subs behind the seats, I’m afraid I may end up with a distorted sound if I put mids back there. Tweeters could be mounted behind the headrests and turned down, but facing the mids at the back of the seat certainly isn’t ideal... @XtremeRevolution have you heard anything about the sub enclosures? Would certainly be easier than fabbing my own, but I have done it in the past for my SPL competition vehicles, so I suppose I could if necessary.
I did the same thing and used XR's FITS thread instructions to replace the factory door speakers. Made a big difference in the sound quality - so much so that I think this is all the further I need to go.
 

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I did the same thing and used XR's FITS thread instructions to replace the factory door speakers. Made a big difference in the sound quality - so much so that I think this is all the further I need to go.
Good to know. XR posted a similar opinion about the sound quality, so I’m looking forward to that. I built competition stereos years ago, but for sound pressure level, not sound quality. So it’s easy for me to go overboard on a project like this. I like the simplicity of XR’s plan here, and while I’m tempted to expand on it a little, I should probably stick to his outline and I’ll likely be very satisfied with it... if I can get his help with the “tune” on an expanded system, I might go that way, but... probably shouldn’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #225 (Edited)
For those us us waiting here is a diagram for the speaker holder in the door. They are identical on both sides. The center hole size naturally depends on your selected speaker (I have here a hole for ~141mm speaker frame size), same goes for actual speaker frame attachment hole locations.

View attachment 74191

While at it, I also run in to trouble but that is on another thread: https://www.124spider.org/threads/after-removing-a-door-panel-window-no-longer-goes-up-after-door-close.34332/
Thanks for the diagram, but I suspect this will benefit mostly people who choose a different driver. Part of the design for this whole project will revolve around specifically the American Bass Symphony component set. The tuning will be done around that driver's efficiency, frequency response, and other characteristics, so if anyone wants to use a different speaker set, they will have to re-tune it themselves for that specific speaker set. On that note, the Symphony door speakers fit perfectly with the adapters mentioned earlier in this thread, and I've been listening to them (still impressed at that) all year.
 

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@XtremeRevolution i installed my door speakers, and as mentioned by you and others, the sound quality difference is very evident. Substantially more range, especially down low. Any progress on the sub enclosure? I’d like to install the rest of this package, and can install your “tune” at a later time to optimize it...
 

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I ended up purchasing what I have available locally here in Finland instead of ordering stuff over the pond with freights, customs and possible care issues. The Black Friday discounts (70% !!!) were speeding up my decision. My selection was:
  • Hertz MKL1650.3 Legend series with 2" tweeters and 6,5" door speakers. The cross overs that come with the series are useless due to the amplifier:
  • Audison AP5 9-bit amplifier with Audison wire harness compatible with MX5 (and therefore also Spider) and plugin to original wire harness, TAU and speaker wires (though tweeters needed their own harness).
Few pictures of my install:


As you see I butchered the original door speakers to use their frame as the adapter for the new speakers. This way the stock wires will fit directly in to the door speakers.

The amplifier went behind the passanger seat.
 

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I ended up purchasing what I have available locally here in Finland instead of ordering stuff over the pond with freights, customs and possible care issues. The Black Friday discounts (70% !!!) were speeding up my decision. My selection was:
  • Hertz MKL1650.3 Legend series with 2" tweeters and 6,5" door speakers. The cross overs that come with the series are useless due to the amplifier:
  • Audison AP5 9-bit amplifier with Audison wire harness compatible with MX5 (and therefore also Spider) and plugin to original wire harness, TAU and speaker wires (though tweeters needed their own harness).
Few pictures of my install:


As you see I butchered the original door speakers to use their frame as the adapter for the new speakers. This way the stock wires will fit directly in to the door speakers.

The amplifier went behind the passanger seat.
Hi, could you please explain how Audison amplifier connect to original tau and speaker harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #229
A couple changes here with this project. I was intending to use all American Bass products for this design, but that turned out to be a tall order. The enclosure design has some considerable complexity due to the limited mounting depth for a shallow mount subwoofer. The American Bass ES10 sub I had chosen for this application was too deep, with a 3.6" mounting depth. I switched to the Memphis PRS1040, with a 3" mounting depth. That 0.6" actually makes a significant difference.

Also, my two contacts for the custom fiberglass enclosure fell through. The first one, I paid $350 to have the enclosure made based on the foam block, and it's been 10 months now and there's no box. To makes matters worse, he lives in California which is on lockdown, so he can't do anything. right now. My other contact melted the foam, and the enclosure he did make ended up fitting quite poorly; so much in fact thatit couldn't even be salvaged.

Today, I found another contact to do the fiberglass work, which should be more reliable as I've personally known him for 3 years and he's quite experienced with this type of work. I'm getting another foam block from a member, which should allow me to get this enclosure made and get the project back on track.
 

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I’ve always questioned the gap between door panels and speakers. Glad there is a fix. I’d do that mod. But I would want to keep the Bose system as is..just change the door speakers and tweeters,if it was a plug and play set up.

Aloha mike
I'd have to check what the impedance is on the Bose system and if the tweeters are amplified separately from the doors or if they're on the same signal. If they're on the same signal, you could just buy the component set and install those while retaining factory wiring.

@XtremeRevolution
aloha bro...any updates? I'm wanting to do the door speakers and would be up to changing the pillar tweeters if need be for my Bose system. Any suggestions?

Overall I'm ok with the stock BOSE system. But I have noticed a rattle in the driver door at certain frequencies and if I'm going to tear into the door to remedy that...I might as well change the stock lightweight paper speakers.

aloha for any guidance.

aloha mike
 

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Discussion Starter #232
@XtremeRevolution
aloha bro...any updates? I'm wanting to do the door speakers and would be up to changing the pillar tweeters if need be for my Bose system. Any suggestions?

Overall I'm ok with the stock BOSE system. But I have noticed a rattle in the driver door at certain frequencies and if I'm going to tear into the door to remedy that...I might as well change the stock lightweight paper speakers.

aloha for any guidance.

aloha mike
Getting close. I'm on my 3rd supplier for a Fiberglass guy to make the subwoofer enclosure. This one's actually a friend of mine that I didn't know had a shop and was VERY good with Fiberglass work. It's in progress. It's been the missing link I've been waiting for to continue this project. I can't really tune the system without a subwoofer installed. First guy ruined my foam block (melted it) the initial box fit very poorly. Second guy, who has the expertise, has been having personal issues and is now shut down due to COVID in California, so most of the delays have been due to the difficulty in finding a guy to make me a good enclosure. I think we're close.

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