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Did you order the larger 24mm bushing?

Any advice on dismantling the console and shifter assembly?

Steve.
No idea, just guessed. Will find out when it gets here!

This helped: ND MX-5 Miata Short Shift Kit Installation Guide

I pulled up around the shift boot trim from inside of it with my hands - the front of that piece that goes to the cubby hooks in and rotates up and out after.

If you have a sport button, you should unclip the harness from it after the 2 screws are removed. Then you can lift the front of the console more and unplug the harness from the dial/buttons controls.

Take it easy the first time, don't want to break any clips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Getting the console off is fairly simple. I outlined the process in this tutorial:

 

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I just updated the other thread about my experience today replacing the plastic shift lever bushing with the bronze bushing from Walter Motorsports.
manual gear shift lever lube, and more

Steve.
 

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Ok, I changed my manual transmission oil today, and the new Amsoil pouches worked great and were easy to use. Just cut a small section off the tip (I cut a larger section with the first pouch and spilled a little oil during insertion), hold the pouch upright as shown in the picture, bend the nozzle and insert it in the fill hole, and squeeze. Easier than a pump, and no mess. Thanks to XtremeRevolution for the recommendation and the great tutorial.
Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part
 

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Thank you XR for this writeup. Changed the engine oil when I first got the car, and have done that once more since. Went with the unweighted GoodWin delrin knob which introduced a bit of notchiness in gears 1-2-3, and did not want to keep going on that factory break-in fluid. Hoped to and tried to give you credit with Amsoil on my fluid/pump/etc. purchases.

All that said, this writeup was excellent and accurate, thank you. My drain plug looked almost identical to yours after about 15k miles, so it seems that the break in period ran it's course as it should and no more. Very reassuring! Thanks again!
 
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@XtremeRevolution, I'm running the Amsoil 75W-90 GL4 in my Spider, and it was an improvement over the factory fill. But all the talk of synchromesh fluid and how it makes shifting even better (a relative claim) has me interested enough to try it.

With many years worth of the Motorcraft XT-M5-QS 75W-90 synchromesh being used in the Miata NC transmission with good results, it's got me wondering about using it. (A local Ford dealer has it for $19.) Of course the talk here about Amsoil Synchromesh fluid has me wondering as well.

Back at around post #85 in this thread you'd mentioned doing a blend of the two Amsoil fluids. This, not shockingly, interests me for one reason- I still have about 3/4 of a quart of the Amsoil 75W-90 sitting on a shelf doing absolutely nothing but taking up space.

#1, is there any reason why I should not put in 2 quarts of the Motorcraft and then top it off with the .2qt of Amsoil I have? (In other words, are the Motorcraft SM and Amsoil non-SM going to play nicely together in my transmission?)

#2, if I'm going to blend to use my current stock, would it be best to put in 2 quarts of Amsoil Synchromech, instead of the Motorcraft, and then top that off with .2qt of the 75W-90 that I have?

For the reasons of not wanting to spend extra money on a third quart and have even more unused product sitting in my garage, if I make the switch to synchromesh fluid I'd like to finish off that pesky 2/10th quart with tranny fluid I already have on hand. I guess the easiest (safest?) decision would be to stick to the same brand, 2 quarts of Amsoil Synchromesh and my existing bottle of Amsoil.

Edit for a follow-up question- these Amsoil manual trans. fluids, which group are the base oil stocks spec'ed from? III, IV, V?

Thoughts? Thanks,
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
@XtremeRevolution, I'm running the Amsoil 75W-90 GL4 in my Spider, and it was an improvement over the factory fill. But all the talk of synchromesh fluid and how it makes shifting even better (a relative claim) has me interested enough to try it.

With many years worth of the Motorcraft XT-M5-QS 75W-90 synchromesh being used in the Miata NC transmission with good results, it's got me wondering about using it. (A local Ford dealer has it for $19.) Of course the talk here about Amsoil Synchromesh fluid has me wondering as well.

Back at around post #85 in this thread you'd mentioned doing a blend of the two Amsoil fluids. This, not shockingly, interests me for one reason- I still have about 3/4 of a quart of the Amsoil 75W-90 sitting on a shelf doing absolutely nothing but taking up space.

#1, is there any reason why I should not put in 2 quarts of the Motorcraft and then top it off with the .2qt of Amsoil I have? (In other words, are the Motorcraft SM and Amsoil non-SM going to play nicely together in my transmission?)

#2, if I'm going to blend to use my current stock, would it be best to put in 2 quarts of Amsoil Synchromech, instead of the Motorcraft, and then top that off with .2qt of the 75W-90 that I have?

For the reasons of not wanting to spend extra money on a third quart and have even more unused product sitting in my garage, if I make the switch to synchromesh fluid I'd like to finish off that pesky 2/10th quart with tranny fluid I already have on hand. I guess the easiest (safest?) decision would be to stick to the same brand, 2 quarts of Amsoil Synchromesh and my existing bottle of Amsoil.

Edit for a follow-up question- these Amsoil manual trans. fluids, which group are the base oil stocks spec'ed from? III, IV, V?

Thoughts? Thanks,
Steve.
I've been debating trying blending it myself as well, but so far haven't really found a need to as the 75W-90 GL-4 shifts quite nicely. I would not mix brands, however, as the additives they're using might not agree with each other. additive incompatibilities are more common in gear oils than engine oils.

If you were going to blend, I would probably add the .75 quarts of 75W-90 GL-4, then fill the rest with synchromesh.

Not sure which API base oil group they're in. I believe they're group 4 PAO based. Thea dditives are just as important though and it's really hard to know what exact additive package AMSOIL is using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Changed the fluid again today. Really wanted to try the blend. I used the easy-pack and filled that quart of 75W-90 GL-4, then filled up the easy-pack with a quart of Synchromesh and squeezed that in, then topped it off with more 75W-90 GL-4. My car was on an incline and on ramps, so I'd guess I have 2.5 quarts in there right now.

9600 really hard miles on the car right now. I was happy to see that, with the exception of two small sand-sizes specks of metal, there wasn't any metallic debris in the transmission and the magnet wasn't excessively loaded either. I sometimes forget to press the clutch in all the way on a redline to 3rd gear shift and had a few grinds during this change.

So far, it seems the transmission likes the friction modifiers in the Synchromesh fluid. 1st gear doesn't fight me as much as it used to. In fact, I can slide it into 1st rolling at 20mph whereas before I used to have to come to an almost complete stop.

No wonder the Mustang crowd loves this blend. The combination of extreme pressure additives in the 75W-90 GL-4 with the friction modifiers in Synchromesh seem to work well together.

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I just changed to the Amsoil blend - from the Ford Motorsport fluid - and I must say that the Amsoil blend is A LOT better.

When I first changed to the Ford fluid everything was good, but after a few thousand miles it was starting to shift roughly. Changed out the fluid during lunch today to the Amsoil blend and it is night and day. The shifts are effortless and the car feels a little "lighter" overall.

I was surprised at the level of metallic swirls in the fluid as well as the drain plug magnet - I mean I know this happens, but this is the car's 2nd fluid change and we're not at 9k miles yet. Maybe the Ford fluid I had was not "legit", IDK, but I would now recommend Amsoil.

Also - those easy fill pouches save a ridiculous amount of time over the pump I've always used in the past. I think from the time I started filling the fluid to the car being buttoned up was ~10 minutes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I just changed to the Amsoil blend - from the Ford Motorsport fluid - and I must say that the Amsoil blend it A LOT better.

When I first changed to the Ford fluid everything was good, but after a few thousand miles it was starting to shift roughly. Changed out the fluid during lunch today to the Amsoil blend and it is night and day. The shifts are effortless and the car feels a little "lighter" overall.

I was surprised at the level of metallic swirls in the fluid as well as the drain plug magnet - I mean I know this happens, but this is the car's 2nd fluid change and we're not at 9k miles yet. Maybe the Ford fluid I had was not "legit", IDK, but I would now recommend Amsoil.

Also - those easy fill pouches save a ridiculous amount of time over the pump I've always used in the past. I think from the time I started filling the fluid to the car being buttoned up was ~10 minutes.
Tahnks for the feedback! I too was very impressed with the AMSOIL blend (1.5 quarts 75W-90 GL-4 to 1 quart synchromesh). It feels awesome. The Ford fluid was legit; it's just too thick and it really starts to show after a while.

Those easy-packs are amazing, I agree. So much faster to fill, and less waste and mess too. No clean-up like you'd have to do with pumps. Well worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
As Fiat engineer i quote this: TDS-18000F.pdf (mpmoil.it) MPM Premium Synthetic S4 GL4 (EU cost: 10€/l)

  • Viscosity INDEX =206 (vs MOTORCRAFT oil= 211, equal >200 is good)
  • Cinematic [email protected]°C=71cSt (vs MOTORCRAFT oil=76cSt, less so good!)
View attachment 87159
There's a lot more to shift quality, protection, and longevity than two points of viscosity measurements on a non-linear viscosity curve. I'll leave it at that.

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